Lightening the trigger

[frayluisfan]

Can any of you gunsmithing types out there tell me what can be done to lighten the trigger on a snubby? Thinking about getting a snubby for my wife, but she doesn't like the long heavy trigger pull of the revolvers we've had her try so far. How much can you lighten the trigger? Any dangers in doing so?

Thanks!

 

[Steve C]

You can lighten up the trigger on a S&W by backing the strain screw. On older S&W's these srews length was set (cut) at the factory for optimum strength to ensure reliable ignition when screwed in all the way. The picture of my more recent 657 Mountain Pistol below shows the location of the strain screw. On this pistol the screws actual lenght was not adjusted at the factory to be screwed in all the way and was set at less than full in position.

A problem getting reliable ignition can occure if the action is lighted up too much. A professional trigger job will usually replace the springs or adjust the strain screw lighter but will also smoothe the action by polishing the parts where they engage.

On coil spring guns you can either buy a lighter weight spring or clip a few coils to reduce the pressure. If you clip to far though it means a new spring rather than a simpel screw adjustment.

For the most part DA trigger pull is something you learn to deal with. If your wife doesn't like the DA pull then she can learn to shoot the pistol single action and then later try some close up DA shooting just to assure her it can be done. Eventually she will learn and adapt.

 

[Jim March]

Here's a related question: the Colt SAA mainspring screw works sort of the same way. A classic way of tweaking the trigger on those was to put a leather washer under the mainspring between it and the grip frame metal, allowing a bit more "flex" of the mainspring. A more modern incarnation is to use a hard rubber or urethane washer instead of leather, as those don't collect moisture and cause rust the way leather can.

Would the same stunt work on the S&W J and K frames? Seems to me that a small leather square just behind the mainspring at the lowest point would add a bit more "flex" to the system...

 

[Old Fuff]

Unfortunately there are some good reasons that the smaller (think J-frame Smith & Wesson's) have heavy double-action trigger pulls - or at least seem too.

The moving parts (think hammer and trigger) are lighter in weight, smaller, and pivot closer together the in larger revolvers. This makes it necessary to use stiffer springs to insure the cartridges will go "BANG!" when you need them to, even under less then ideal conditions.

Some advocate "polishing" the internal parts, and using lighter main (hammer) and trigger springs. But incorrectly polishing parts can easily ruin them, and repairs usually involve expensive replacements.

Using lighter springs may leave you with a gun that isn't reliable under all conditions - possibly acceptable in a sporting toy, but hardly in a weapon.

There are some things you might consider.

1. Dry-fire the revolver so that the moving parts burnish themselves at pressure points. This will make the action feel smoother, and therefore lighter. So long as you use snap-caps in the chambers, dry firing won't hurt the gun or void your warrantee as polishing will.

2. Change to larger stocks. A bigger grip is easier to hold on to, and therefore control the gun.

3. Consider a 3" barrel is place of the shorter ones. They balance better and makes hitting a target easier.

4. Look into one of the larger K-frame Smith & Wessons or a Ruger SP-101. Your wife may find one of these more to her liking.

 

[Old Fuff]

Jim:

In Smith & Wesson K, L and N frames the mainspring is mounted in a slot, and all the screw does is tension it. Unlike the S.A.A. there isn't any place to put a leather/rubber spacer.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Can any of you gunsmithing types out there tell me what can be done to lighten the trigger on a snubby? Thinking about getting a snubby for my wife, but she doesn't like the long heavy trigger pull of the revolvers we've had her try so far. How much can you lighten the trigger? Any dangers in doing so?

There's a great deal that can be done.

I've been replacing springs and polishing rebound slides and occasionally tweaking hammers and sears in Smith & Wesson revolvers for decades. That said™, please let me say this: if the gun is to be used for self-defense, it's probably much more sensible to turn the gun over to a competent gunsmith.

Yes, you can do it yourself, especially if you invest in the appropriate Kuhnhausen book—but there's a fair amount of trial and error in the process, and you've got to be absolutely sure your tweaking doesn't leave you with a gun that's less than 100% reliable.

I'm normally around 90% to 98% happy with a Smith & Wesson revolver after I've replaced the rebound slide spring, polished the slide, and lightened the tension on the main spring a very little bit. Before I carry the gun, I make sure it's fired at least 200 rounds without a single problem.

If you buy a Colt revolver, a.) you really can't do it yourself unless you're a genuine expert, and b.) it's hard to find competent Colt revolver experts at any price.

I have no idea what you'd do with an off-brand revolver, which is why I wouldn't have one in the house.

 

[GrantCunningham]

Well, it depends!

My professional experience is with Colt, S&W, and Ruger "snubbies." In general, with proper attention to smoothing operations and no changes in the main (hammer) spring, you can generally get down to 8.75 to 9.25lbs with complete reliability.

If one gives sufficient time to precisely fit certain internal parts and other details, along with careful live-fire testing, one can find some small-frame revolvers getting into the 8lb neighborhood.

The key word, of course, is "reliability." Yeah, I've seen some guns with 7lb D/A triggers - that wouldn't detonate half of the ammunition currently being sold!

Now for some opinion: I've met and trained with a large number of female shooters. Much as I promote the use of the revolver for self-defense, I've found that they aren't for everyone. The length and weight of D/A revolver triggers are why the women I see, given proper training and left to their own choices, pick an autoloader about 70% of the time. (One nationally known female instructor tells me it's closer to 90% at her school.)

It pains me to admit it, but even my wife prefers those reciprocating, bottom-feeding monstrosities.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Hello, Grant!

Thanks for the link, eh? Next time I happen to encounter a Python in need of a good home...