Lone Wolf Barrel for Glock 20sf..good or not

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quietsage

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Hello all, first post here but long time lurker...anyway..

Just picked up a G20sf today and already ran 50 rds thru it (180gr fmj) with no problems. Got home and whipped up a handful of 180gr fmj reloads to try out tomorrow. Used new starline brass for the reloads and will fire thru stock barrel.

Ordered a LWD barrel and SS guide rod for my 20sf as well. Question is, are the after market barrels (LWD) not reliable for previous fired rounds thru stock barrel?

I was under the impression that after market barrels were better for reloads and hotter rounds? Did some looking after the order of other barrel and seem to come upon less than desirable traits with some folk...mainly FTFs with reloads originally fired from a stock barrel. Maybe I'm confused.

Anyone here have any experience using LWD barrel in G20sf, especially with reloads? Thanks in advance for replies!
Mod..I wasn't exactly sure were to place this thread...
 
I agree, you are confused. LWD may be good or it may have issues. KKM is suposedly better, but my dad has FTF issues with his. Barrels are hit/miss. Barsto are about the best in terms of internet complaints, but they are pricey in comparisson.

If you reload 10mm, invest in a full length sizer. I use a Lee FCD & Bulge Buster. Redding GRX also gets good review. Once you use this style of sizerit doesn't matter what barrel you fired it in last. If you don't do this then yes, a 10mm fired in a loose glock chamber may not fit a tighter chamber.
 
The main thing that makes stock glock barrels bad for reloads is the rifleing. You cannot shoot lead through the stock glock barrels due to the rifleing. As far as accuracy is concerned, kkm or bar-sto. If you want the best accuracy look for getting a barrel gunsmith fit.
 
I have 3 LWD barrels and never have had an issue with any of them. Whomever had problems with brass fired from a Glock OEM barrel needs more reloading experience IMHO.
You may also want to consider a LWD 10/40 barrel so you can also shoot .40 S&W. .40 S&W Brass is a lot easier to come by [free] and the .40 S&W velocities are more conducive to shooting lead bullets than 10MM.
 
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LWD barrel is on the way...as well as a Bulge Buster. Thanks for the replies!
 
I have the LW barrel for my G20. It certainly is tighter dimensionally than the Glock barrel and this will be easier on your brass (less stretching).

But, I have had a few failures to feed with it when using recycled brass.

Here is a more detailed review I did last year.
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=115038

The only aftermarket parts I still have in the gun are the stainless guide rod and 22# recoil spring.

I am back to using my stock glock barrel because the chamber support is the same, even though the LW barrel is tighter. The brass may stretch a little more, but I dont plan on using it that many times anyway. I figure 5 or 6 reloads then chuck it, and only use new brass for hotloads.
 
Some good advice up in here. I plan to grab a 10mm-40S&W conversion for mine in order to take advantage of cheap lead projectiles and free range brass (not many people fighting for the 40 brass). For the 10mm I shoot JHP in the stock bbl. Hot loads only in new or once fired brass.
 
Thanks Sargents1 for that review! Appreciate the other replies as well. I have yet to experience the crazy recoil I am accustomed to reading about with the 10mm, The G20 really handles great and is quite accurate...then again..I've only been using 180gr fmjs'.

My reloads have been 180gr Speer tmf fn/ Unique at 6.8 grs at around 1050 fps. The G20 hardly bucks at all with these.

I'm still days new to the 10mm round..so how hot is 'HOT'?

After examining some the brass I did notice a slight bulge, not much and the resizing die seemed to take care of it. No smiley faces though. Think I'll stick with your method Sargents1 and chuck the brass after 4 or 5 reloads and go with new brass for the hot stuff.
Curious to see if I get any FTFs out of the LWD barrel. Thanks again for replies/info!
 
Thanks Sargents1 for that review! Appreciate the other replies as well. I have yet to experience the crazy recoil I am accustomed to reading about with the 10mm, The G20 really handles great and is quite accurate...then again..I've only been using 180gr fmjs'.

My reloads have been 180gr Speer tmf fn/ Unique at 6.8 grs at around 1050 fps. The G20 hardly bucks at all with these.

I'm still days new to the 10mm round..so how hot is 'HOT'?

After examining some the brass I did notice a slight bulge, not much and the resizing die seemed to take care of it. No smiley faces though. Think I'll stick with your method Sargents1 and chuck the brass after 4 or 5 reloads and go with new brass for the hot stuff.
Curious to see if I get any FTFs out of the LWD barrel. Thanks again for replies/info!

How hot is "hot"...depends on who you ask. To me, any 10mm load that is pushing a 180gr bullet @ 1300ft/s from a 4.6in Glock barrel is pretty hot.

Others will no doubt disagree with that, but I figure if you are getting those kinds of numbers (and are actually chronographing them, not just reading from a manual) then you are doing well.

As for 10mm recoil, I guess it kind of depends on your reference point. I didnt really think of my 10mm as being all that loud or having all that much muzzle blast until I watched my sister-in-law shoot it in the back yard. Standing off to one side watching her shoot that was a bit of an eye opener. Its kind of funny how it seems less when you are the one driving it.

I think some folks make the 10mm out to be some kind of cannon because they come from shooting something like .45acp target loads or maybe .38sp. When you come from there, a 10mm seems pretty rowdy.

I came from shooting my .45 Colt Blackhawk with some pretty warm loads in it. After that, my G20 is pretty mellow, even with stout loads.
 
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