long range shots with AR-15

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Andy,

As soon as a bullet leaves the barrel it begins dropping due to the forces of gravity. The term flat shooting generally refers to a cartridge which drops a small amount within a defined range of distance. The rate of drop varies with the ballistic properties of the bullet (ballistic coefficent) and velocity.

The line of sight crosses the path of the bullet at 2 points in space. The first point is at close range and if drawn on paper gives the impression that the bullet actual rises before beginning to drop. The 2nd point is at a greater distance and if drawn on paper is where the bullet again crosses the line of sight as the bullet drops. The idea of being able to sight at 25M and be on target at some greater distance do to this alignment of a straight line (the line of sight) and the curved path of the bullet intersecting the line of sight at 2 points in space.

As Steve Smith has said, that is why sights adjust so you can alter those intersection points in space.

Problem with using a red dot scope with say a 4MOA dot for accuracy shooting is that dot covers a large area that increases with distance, not a problem for hunting at 25-200 yards, but a big problem beyond that. A scope with a fine crosshair and a 1/8 MOA dot is preferred for precision shooting. To give an example of the difference, at 600 yards, a 4 MOA dot would cover a 24 inch circle on the target where a 1/8 MOA dot would be less then 1 inch. For my shooting, I have 2 scopes, a 16X and a 32X. I use the 32X actually at shorter ranges and the 16X at longer ranges.
 
See, my problem is that when I am doing a shot at say 100m. my front sight post covers the target or it is too difficult to see the target. Granted I am probably using the wrong type of target. The targets that I use tend to have circles that are say about 6 inches in diameter. But that is the whole reason for my wanting to get a scope. The sense that Im getting is that for an AR a scope is not needed and iron sights do. So in my case I have a 20" barrel on my bushy. So I dont really see my needing to get more space between the front and rear sight. Should I try to get new sights for it? If so any recommendations? Thanks for all the responses by the way!
 
Jon, those were excellent posts. I would like to expound on one part of your posts.

now you need to make sure when you use a rear peep sight is to make sure on EVERY shot that your rear eye is looking exactly threw the center of the sight EVERY time

As I have said before, there is a phenomenon now named the Toer Spot (after a Dr. Toer I'm told) that occurs when one looks through an aperture. When your eye is directly behind the aperture, the Toer Spot appears. One may see it easiest when looking at the sky through the aperture. Once you have seen it, you can see it no matter what the background. I check to see if there is a Toer Spot before each shot. I average a High Master score at 200 Rapid Sitting, 300 Rapid Prone, and the 600 yard Slow Prone, and I think the Toer Spot helps tremendously. As long as I am sure that my eye is perfectly centered behind the sight, I only have to think about the front sight. As you know, I use a .052" front and I scribe a line on my front sight that just breaks the top edge and barely runs down the face. In al I have less than 1/16" of line. What that does is it gives me a bright spot and a place to focus perfectly on.
 
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