Long term Mobil-1 immersion effect on bluing?

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I have used a shop air compressor for about 50 years during gun cleaning and gun repair.
I also blow out computer keyboards, motherboards, and power supplies with it too.

It won't hurt a thing!

Far more harmless then a lot of other things I have heard of people using to clean guns with!

rc
 
I have used a shop air compressor for about 50 years during gun cleaning and gun repair.
I also blow out computer keyboards, motherboards, and power supplies with it too.
It won't hurt a thing!
Far more harmless then a lot of other things I have heard of people using to clean guns with!
rc

Guess we'll just have to disagree!

All ambient air contains some level of moisture no matter if the air is from a moist gulf coast region or in the Sahara Desert. A compressor draws in air and compresses the air to a much smaller volume. During this compression process liquid water condenses from the air and is removed, the remaining air is always at 100% relative humidity.
Example: If you wring out a wet sponge, liquid water will be removed, but the sponge still remains on the verge of dripping while you maintain your grip on it. If you have two sponges—one very wet and one somewhat wet—they will have different amounts of liquid water before being wrung out but have the same amount of water retained after the wringing process. Likewise, the air coming out of your compressor is at 100% relative humidity while under pressure regardless of how much water it contained to begin with.
 
Likewise, the air coming out of your compressor is at 100% relative humidity while under pressure regardless of how much water it contained to begin with.

As soon as it leaves the nozzle, the air becomes dehumidified due to loss of pressure (in other words, it gains capacity to absorb more moisture). In all likelihood, the air coming out of the compressor is LESS humid than the ambient air.
 
Gotta go with RC on this one. I am certified under section 608 and 609 (Clean Air Act/Montreal Accord)as a refrigeration/air conditioning tech. I used(past tense because I am now retired) to blow out A/C or refrieration systems with shop air. Moisture,even a small amount can trash an A/C system(moisture+refrigerant=hydrachloric acid) and can also freeze in expansion valves/TXVs. Vaccuuming the system boils off most moisture but not always all. It is critical that any air pressure introduced into such systems be DRY! Inline dehydrator/driers do this quite well. Use shop air freely and if you still have concerns,flush parts with WD-40 and rest easy.
 
It sounds to me like we're getting just WAY to picky here regarding moisture in compressed air. Next someone's going to be worried about how much humidity is in their tires.

Blow-em off, wipe-em down, take-em out and shoot-em! Just be sure to wear gloves during all this so as not to have any fingerprints.
 
Next someone's going to be worried about how much humidity is in their tires.
Already happened. Many fleets are running dry nitrogen in their tires now. My company tested it and decided it wasn't worth the added expense.
 
Likewise, the air coming out of your compressor is at 100% relative humidity while under pressure regardless of how much water it contained to begin with.
Absolutely BS.

If the air was at 30% relative humidity before being compressed, it is at the same relative humidity when compressed. Compresseing air does not increase the amount of water in the air; it will only condense the water that is in the air.

That is why most compressors come with (or can readily be equipped with) a water separator/filter element that can be readly changed.
Just buy a Glock and you will never have to worry about that stuff again. You can even bury it in the back yard if you like...
That is the best advice I have ever seen on an internet forum. If I had a Glock I would bury it right away and never tell anyone I owned one.
Fortunately, I sold both of them and no longer have that problem. :)
 
I'm an amateur bicycle racer. Some companies have been pushing for nitrogen filled bike tires. Silliness.
 
It is probably worth noting that a layer of water can accumulate on the bottom of a diesel or oil tank. Probably not an issue unless you plan really long term storage in a big container such as a 55 gal drum. In any case, I would probably want a shallow rack or spacer to keep the gun 1/4 to 1/2" off the bottom of the container.
 
Already happened. Many fleets are running dry nitrogen in their tires now. My company tested it and decided it wasn't worth the added expense.

Like I said, we're way to picky here. All right next individual car owners are going to be worried about moisture in their autos. No fleet people need reply.

Furthermore the advantages of using nitrogen has nothing to do with moisture. Check it out on google.

Now then back to Mobil 1 and air compressors.
 
Furthermore the advantages of using nitrogen has nothing to do with moisture
You must not have read all that you googled. This is very interesting but has little to do with the original topic. Bottom line is immersion in oil won't hurt bluing and blowing out a gun with shop air(with proper air drier) won't harm it either.
 
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You must not have read all that you googled. This is very interesting but has little to do with the original topic. Bottom line is immersion in oil won't hurt bluing and blowing out a gun with shop air(with proper air drier) won't harm it either.

You sir must not have read the last sentence on my post number 36.

It looks like DBR pretty well covered it with a sensible idea.
 
Absolutely BS.
If the air was at 30% relative humidity before being compressed, it is at the same relative humidity when compressed. Compresseing air does not increase the amount of water in the air; it will only condense the water that is in the air
That is why most compressors come with (or can readily be equipped with) a water separator/filter element that can be readly changed.
Not BS. You're wrong.

A primer. Anytime a compressor is running you're generating water and because of the process you have more moisture coming out than the relative humidity you sucked in. The amount of water varies with the humidity sucked in, but will always be more. It becomes 100% relative humidity. That's why it "rains" inside the storage tank.

Those of us that recognize that, drain the tank on small compressors, as very few people (including yours truly) use any kind of water seperator on these units, since they don't come with one. Lacking that kind of protection, I will not use compressed air on guns, computers or anything else that I want to be moisture free. Shop size compressors have these devices to protect air tools and other equipment.

That's the reason an auto's AC system has a dryer/accumulator. When the system is evacuated for about 45 minutes prior to charging it's to remove what moisture has been generated by the compressor during normal operation of the system.

Google the subject. Remember that just because someone believes second hand smoke is not harmful, doesn't make him right.
 
That's the reason an auto's AC system has a dryer/accumulator. When the system is evacuated for about 45 minutes prior to charging it's to remove what moisture has been generated by the compressor during normal operation of the system.
As a fully certified (ASE) technician with over 35 tears experience I am qualified to say that an A/C compressor DOES NOT generate moisture during normal operations! Any moisture in an A/C system was introduced when the system was opened to the atmosphere. Once it has been evacuated there is no more moisture in the system. The filter/drier collects particulates as well as incidental moisture from poor charging practices. An accumulator stores liquid refrierant and oil and has little drying effect.
 
remove what moisture has been generated by the compressor during normal operation of the system.
Huh??? WHAT???... Closed system, no non-condensables - unless they started making external combustion type STERLING .....compressors...?
I don't see any harm in immersing firearms in oil, I believe I'd remove any petrol based parts before "long-term" storage.
I don't think I'd ever use diesel unless I had to.
Painted lots of spray nozzle's worth of Jet/Acra-Glo , Akzo Nobel , BMS 10-11 ty.2, on pretty nice jets. Wear out an Optima Elite carbide insert spray nozzle and get back to me.
Inline air drier is awful nice to have.
 
JimmyRay, with all due respect to your credentials, I was a member of the Society Of Automotive Engineers for many years. Physics say otherwise.
 
Motor oil is a lubricant not a rust inhibitor.

It takes special additives to block oxygen migration.
Good motor oils contain corrosion inhibitors. You don't want the inside of your engine rusting, and there is a good bit of moisture in the crankcase vapors (since water vapor is one of the combustion products of gasoline; that's where all the hydrogen goes).

Food does not rust. Spoilage is caused by microorganisms.
Some types of spoilage are caused by microorganisms. Other types of spoilage are caused by oxidation, from exposure to atmospheric oxygen (fats go rancid, polyphenols oxidize and turn brown, etc. etc.), and immersion does help prevent that. That's one reason undried fruit slices are often packed in liquid.
 
That's one reason undried fruit slices are often packed in liquid.

Canning uses high temperatures to kill off the microorganisms. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canning

From a public safety point of view, foods with low acidity (a pH more than 4.6) need sterilization under high temperature (116-130°C). To achieve temperatures above the boiling point requires the use of a pressure canner. Foods that must be pressure canned include most vegetables, meats, seafood, poultry, and dairy products. The only foods that may be safely canned in an ordinary boiling water bath are highly acidic ones with a pH below 4.6[1], such as fruits, pickled vegetables, or other foods to which acidic additives have been added.
 
After reviewing all the above posts...

I've decided to store my Python and a slingshot inside of a screw top candy jar filled with marbles and motor oil. ;)
 
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