Mobil 1 or ATF??

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've used Mobil 1 as well with great success and Militec-1. I've gotten to the point where I'm tired of spending a jillion dollars for a dinky 4 oz bottle of "flavor of the week" when there are industrial and commercial lubricants for machinery that'll see heavier and harsher use than any firearm ever could.
 
I have used motor oils for decades, thinking being if it held up in engines lubricating a firearm would be easy duty for it. I have used all kinds and also the teflon stuff and super lubricant engine additives(Pro-Long). I haven't noticed any finish or bluing wear, most of my guns are blued/ color cased.
I have not used ATF but wouldn't hesitate to if I had nothing else. ATF doesn't have the same lubricating qualities as motor oils.
 
Old time Marine mix:
1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil
1.5 qt 10W30 - use Mobil 1 now
1 pt STP
1 qt Dexron AtF

lasts a heavy shooter 10 years, but costs next to nothing compared to CLP or FP-10...and it stays in solution evan after sitting 18 months (longest I've had a jar sitting around).
/Bryan
 
Robert Hairless said:
ATF is the slickest thing around and the most durable. Despite one screw up after another it still survives.


Robert you are far too clever for your own good...Despite ATF's "slickness" I have found there is another product from Arkansas which is yet more slippery. Currently I believe it's available in New York and in the next few years is likely to be commonly found in the D.C. area. One user has publicly admitted to her dissatisfaction with the product, and as I understand its penetrative powers was not all that good.

----

Now, as for actual subject at hand...for real lubricants I have found CLP to be lacking, and am looking to mix my own from now on. Today I just got done putting a few hundred rounds of .223 through an AR that was jamming quite a bit on me. It stopped jamming every three or four magazines after I switched to Mobil 1. And I used it very sparingly.

My intention is to not clean this rifle...I'll run a couple patches through the bore, but otherwise will not clean the internals. We'll see how long until a jam.
 
Oh yeah, this is what clued me in about jamming problems on my AR:

The directions are on the target so get them going in competition against each other. Recognize the best shooters. Post their targets on your bulletin board.

Most importantly get them the proper cleaning equipment for the 14. I would get Dewey Service Rifle rods with bore alignment guides. You have to impress on them that the cleaning rod cannot touch the muzzle. GI jointed rods have ruined more barrels than were ever shot out. Make up cleaning rod cases from 1 1/2" PVC water pipe cut about two inches longer than the rod. Cap one end and put on screw top clean out on other end. This will protect the rod from damage, dirt etc.

Do not use CLP ( I christened it "THE CLAP") Go to your motor pool and get some Mercon Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Next get Kerosene (K1 if they have it) and mineral spirits (paint thinner) and mix it 1/3rd of each .i.e. two quarts of everything will make 1.5 gallons.

Get some small tilt mouth plastic bottles and give each kid one.

This stuff is excellent bore cleaner and light lube. It will dissolve carbon.

Barrel life is dependent on cleaning. I have been running a study for last three years on three barrels. I have developed a system where the data indicates I can tripple the life of barrels by proper cleaning.

THE SECRET OF THIS IS CLEAN THE BARREL JUST AS SOON AS THE LAST SHOT IS FIRED before carbon cools and becomes hard.
The cleaning system I finalized on is right after the last shot I put on a 30 cal bronze brush and soak it down and make three or four passes in the barrel. Then I take of the 30 cal brush and put on a 22 cal brush and wrap a 30 cal patch around that. Soak it down and swab barrel. Remove patch and replace with new and dry it out. The 22 cal brush makes the best cleaning jag I ever used.
Wet another patch and run this through. It should come out clean. Dry the bore and the residue you can't dry will protect it.



This is from a guy named "Hummer" on AmBack's forum. As I understand he's an old USMC armorer from the dinosaur age. This guy appears to be a wealth of information. A very interesting discussion about CLP, and the affect it has on accuracy for the M1A

http://www.ambackforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=45871
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top