Sixtigers
Member
I have several blades, all combat worthy, and a couple of wall hangars. What I've learned (and I took blacksmithing in college for a year):
Good swords--real swords--cost money. Bar none.
Windlass steelcrafts' products are very nice. Mount them on the wall and dust 'em off, show 'em to your friends. Make lightsaber sounds as you swing them through the air--but don't dare hit anything. They'll bendy/breaky.
Museum Replicas--prettier! You can take 'em off the wall, and wear 'em at renn faires! The good thing about renn faires is that you'll be peace-bonded (which means they tie your sword to it's scabbard and you can't draw it), and you won't make it all bendy/breaky when you swing it.
Paul Chen--I have two of their rapier, both scored off ebay. They don't look as good as "dressier" Windlass rapiers, but the Chen steel 'sings' better. I haven't sparred with these, nor hit anything harder than cardboard, but they seem to hold up well.
Cold Steel--I only have one Cold Steel, and it's the 1917 Cutlass. I also have an original issue Navy 1917 Cutlass. The Cold Steel is a better product, and a fantastic (little) fighting blade. It is one handed only, though. I have used mine as a machete, beheaded many attacking zombies (OK, snowmen), and it's a big deal for my kids when we sacrifice the watermelon to the picnic Gods with it. Great blade, and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it to someone looking for a "real" sword.
When you start talking japanese blades (traditional katana and other samurai blades), you open up a whole bunch of crap. Everybody has their opinions, most based on favorite movies or on the tourist crap set that daddy brought back from PI when he was in the Navy. Get a book, learn how the blades were crafted, and understand what you're looking at. Realize that it's the blade that is important, and not any of the other hardware.
Once you've held a real blade, you'll be disgusted with some of the import stuff coming in.
Side note: You mentioned stainless steel. Stainless steel makes a good knife blade--as long as the blade stays less than about 10" long. SS does not make good long blades. High carbon steel takes more care, but makes a better weapon.
The Japanese sword is probably the best design in a man-slaughtering blade out there, but for some really beautiful stuff, get on the 'net and try to find some real (that means antique, and therefore expensive, and therefore out of our reach) rapiers or sabres, specifically old Spanish or Italian designs.
If ugly doesn't bother you, there used to be a guy on ebay--chinese feller--who got a hold of a bunch of WWII Japanese Naval Officer swords. These were one-handed cutlasses, but with the traditional Japanese curve and tanto tip. The handles were an awful brass casting, but when cleaned up, the blades were amazing. I managed to win one for $20, and then found the shipping from China was about $200...Yeah--read the small print. Lucky for me--beautifully functional, butt ugly.
Careful of old Rosicrucian or Templar ceremonial stuff. Often identified with a knight's helmet on the butt. These are ceremonial only!
If you don't mind building up a sword yourself, go to ebay and type in "Old sword blade" or "old sword". Someone is always selling a decent blade that they found in an attic, but the handle is usually rotted away, or it's slightly rusty, or it isn't "pretty". I scored my 1860 Ames that way, complete with dented handguard, for less than $100.
They're out there, but you won't find a "new" one for $20-$50 that's worth anything. You either gotta pay, or get lucky.
Good luck!
Good swords--real swords--cost money. Bar none.
Windlass steelcrafts' products are very nice. Mount them on the wall and dust 'em off, show 'em to your friends. Make lightsaber sounds as you swing them through the air--but don't dare hit anything. They'll bendy/breaky.
Museum Replicas--prettier! You can take 'em off the wall, and wear 'em at renn faires! The good thing about renn faires is that you'll be peace-bonded (which means they tie your sword to it's scabbard and you can't draw it), and you won't make it all bendy/breaky when you swing it.
Paul Chen--I have two of their rapier, both scored off ebay. They don't look as good as "dressier" Windlass rapiers, but the Chen steel 'sings' better. I haven't sparred with these, nor hit anything harder than cardboard, but they seem to hold up well.
Cold Steel--I only have one Cold Steel, and it's the 1917 Cutlass. I also have an original issue Navy 1917 Cutlass. The Cold Steel is a better product, and a fantastic (little) fighting blade. It is one handed only, though. I have used mine as a machete, beheaded many attacking zombies (OK, snowmen), and it's a big deal for my kids when we sacrifice the watermelon to the picnic Gods with it. Great blade, and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it to someone looking for a "real" sword.
When you start talking japanese blades (traditional katana and other samurai blades), you open up a whole bunch of crap. Everybody has their opinions, most based on favorite movies or on the tourist crap set that daddy brought back from PI when he was in the Navy. Get a book, learn how the blades were crafted, and understand what you're looking at. Realize that it's the blade that is important, and not any of the other hardware.
Once you've held a real blade, you'll be disgusted with some of the import stuff coming in.
Side note: You mentioned stainless steel. Stainless steel makes a good knife blade--as long as the blade stays less than about 10" long. SS does not make good long blades. High carbon steel takes more care, but makes a better weapon.
The Japanese sword is probably the best design in a man-slaughtering blade out there, but for some really beautiful stuff, get on the 'net and try to find some real (that means antique, and therefore expensive, and therefore out of our reach) rapiers or sabres, specifically old Spanish or Italian designs.
If ugly doesn't bother you, there used to be a guy on ebay--chinese feller--who got a hold of a bunch of WWII Japanese Naval Officer swords. These were one-handed cutlasses, but with the traditional Japanese curve and tanto tip. The handles were an awful brass casting, but when cleaned up, the blades were amazing. I managed to win one for $20, and then found the shipping from China was about $200...Yeah--read the small print. Lucky for me--beautifully functional, butt ugly.
Careful of old Rosicrucian or Templar ceremonial stuff. Often identified with a knight's helmet on the butt. These are ceremonial only!
If you don't mind building up a sword yourself, go to ebay and type in "Old sword blade" or "old sword". Someone is always selling a decent blade that they found in an attic, but the handle is usually rotted away, or it's slightly rusty, or it isn't "pretty". I scored my 1860 Ames that way, complete with dented handguard, for less than $100.
They're out there, but you won't find a "new" one for $20-$50 that's worth anything. You either gotta pay, or get lucky.
Good luck!
