Looking of a picture of a powder measurer.....

[thefish]

I have a lee powder measurer, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount it to a bench in such a way that I can do powder drops with cases in a universal reloading tray. Obviously I could just do the cases in the perimeter, but does anyone have a pic if a setup that allows you the depth to fill the cases in the inner portion of the tray?

Thanks in advance.

 

[sexybeast]

Don't do this anymore because I use a progressive, but I use to use two trays. Take a case out of one, drop powder and put it in another. No double charges and piece of mind.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I have a lee powder measurer, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount it to a bench in such a way that I can do powder drops with cases in a universal reloading tray. Obviously I could just do the cases in the perimeter, but does anyone have a pic if a setup that allows you the depth to fill the cases in the inner portion of the tray?

Thanks in advance.

Which Lee powder measure are you asking about?

 

[jr_roosa]

I use a tray with an extra row. Each drop and I put the full shells in the next row.

The RCBS measure stand leaves almost enough room for a tray underneath.

Something long enough will likely be too wobbly.

-J.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

i made this by bending a piece of stainless flat bar. it works with the red universal loading trays, but you have to charge 3 rows and then flip it around to charge the other 2 rows.

works for me.

 

[noylj]

I found that it was safer for me to take a case, charge it, inspect the powder, and immediately seat a bullet. No missed cases during charging or inspection and no tray full of cases getting knocked over. Seemed a lot more logical to me than having a whole tray of charged cases just waiting to be bounced or tipped over.

 

[plmitch]

I found that it was safer for me to take a case, charge it, inspect the powder, and immediately seat a bullet. No missed cases during charging or inspection and no tray full of cases getting knocked over. Seemed a lot more logical to me than having a whole tray of charged cases just waiting to be bounced or tipped over.

Thats the way I do it. Slow to some people, but I'm in no hurry.

 

[Hungry1]

Here's mine

 

[jmorris]

I found that it was safer for me to take a case, charge it, inspect the powder, and immediately seat a bullet. No missed cases during charging or inspection and no tray full of cases getting knocked over. Seemed a lot more logical to me than having a whole tray of charged cases just waiting to be bounced or tipped over.

The way I do it as well. If I want more efficient production than that, I set up a 550 or better.

If you don't have the equipment to make a stand you can buy this one for less than $20.

 

[James2]

Loading single stage:
I don't use the trays until the case has powder in it. then it goes in the tray. After the tray is full I take the tray under the light so I can look into each casing to make sure they all have powder in them and none have doubles, then I seat bullets. It doesn't take any more time to pick up a casing, put powder in it then set it in the tray, than it does to put them all in the tray then fill them with powder. You have to pick them all up individually to put them in the tray no matter when you do it. To me the tray is a pain in the butt till they have powder in them.

 

[cfullgraf]

I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount it to a bench in such a way that I can do powder drops with cases in a universal reloading tray.

You will probably have to make a new holder for your powder measure that has a deep enough throat to fit the reloading trays.

Unfortunately, Lee does not make their powder measures that work on a 7/8-14 thread so you would have to modify any of the mounts offered by the other manufacturers. Not difficult unless your shop is very limited in its capabilities.

The easiest thing to do is get a piece of flat bar, drill a mounting hole for the measure and mount it so it hangs over the bench an appropriate amount.

 

[ranger335v]

Whether my charges are dropped or weighted, I've filled all my cases in a loading block (always requires turning to get the last two rows for dropped charges) since '65. After they are filled, I hold the charged block tilted under a strong light so I can see the top of each powder column; I've never had a skipped or over charge or squib get passed that visual check and the rythum of my charging doesn't vary due to "stop and go".

 

[Rule3]

I have a lee powder measurer, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount it to a bench in such a way that I can do powder drops with cases in a universal reloading tray. Obviously I could just do the cases in the perimeter, but does anyone have a pic if a setup that allows you the depth to fill the cases in the inner portion of the tray?

Thanks in advance.

If its the Lee Perfect Powder measure you don't You can try and make something like NeuseRvrRat fine example.

Better to just put your brass case mouth down in the tray. Pick one up and fill it, put it back case mouth up and do all 50. A lot less messy and no chance to double charge or miss one.

 

[thefish]

Thanks fellas. It is the lee perfect powder measurer. The one that comes in the annaverssary kit. I played with it tonight a little for the first time, and am working on my method. Im kind of new to this. I think the way to go may be to do as others have suggested and do one case a a time, then place the charged cases into the loading block. The perfect powder measurer seems to take more effort to operate than my friends better powder measurer. I know the lee is not as high quality. I ran two hoppers of h335 through I tonight just to get the feel, and it definitely isn't as smooth as the other one I've used. A new measurer may be in my future. I also tested out the scale, and there was a little variation between powder throws. I don't know exactly how much, or what variation is normal ( that will be a question for another post I am sure once I actually get some measurements).

I may even change my method to use the powder through die and do a one complete round cycle instead of a batch style system, I am not sure yet what will work best for me and my setup.

I'm sure ill have more questions. Thanks for the replies!

 

[Rule3]

Actually the LPPM is pretty darn accurate. Yes it feels chinchy but it is very consistent. It doesn't cut stick powder like my RCBS does. I tested it with many powders and weighed every drop and it was just fine. Used it for a long time for handguns and rifles. I used to have two, and left them set for two different powders and specific charge. Like most powder measures it doesn't do as well with flak powders.

You can loosen the screw on the side a litle and it will not be as tight when rotating the handle. Do not loosen it very much or it may leak fine powder, Just a tiny little bit. You need to experiment with it

 

[thefish]

Yes, I played with the screw, and it is a fine line between it feeling good, and leaking like a siv with H335.

The only other measurer I have used was wither a RCBS or possibly a Redding, I don't know, it was green with a green transparent drop tube (nice feature). and it felt much more solid.

The strange thing was that the Lee initially felt good, but after several drops, it would seem to bind up more and more. I assume from powder getting between the two tapered surfaces. Possibly it needs to break in more. I only ran two hoppers of H335 through it just to play around and get the feel for the adjustments.

What kind of variation is the norm drop to drop? From a completely unscientific method and memory form a few hours ago, I seem to remember having a variation of 6/10ths of a grain. It would start out fine over 10 drops, then creep up or down.

 

[conrad427]

I bought the RCBS stand and never used it. The measure comes with a little flat strap that the measure threads into so when I clamp it onto the bench the tube is below the edge of the bench. I can prime all my cases with ease in the block starting with the front row working side to side till I'm done. I can get my wife to load a picture if you are curious.
I have a baffle in my measure and that seems to help throw consistent charges as well as working the lever with the same speed and force each time. I tap the lever twice on the up stroke and twice on the down stroke and usually keep the charges within a tenth.

 

[thefish]

I bought the RCBS stand and never used it. The measure comes with a little flat strap that the measure threads into so when I clamp it onto the bench the tube is below the edge of the bench. I can prime all my cases with ease in the block starting with the front row working side to side till I'm done. I can get my wife to load a picture if you are curious.
I have a baffle in my measure and that seems to help throw consistent charges as well as working the lever with the same speed and force each time. I tap the lever twice on the up stroke and twice on the down stroke and usually keep the charges within a tenth.

I think I understand. I have a few ideas. No pic necessary. I may do a little modification once I come up with a good method.

When you say baffle, is it basically a divider inside the hopper?

 

[conrad427]

Yes. It helps keep the weight of the powder consistent on the roller to help keep charges the same as the weight of the powder drops. It is a little piece of sheet metal that drops in from the top kind of in the shape of a roof on a house. My RCBS measure did not come with one, did your LEE?

 

[thefish]

Yes. It helps keep the weight of the powder consistent on the roller to help keep charges the same as the weight of the powder drops. It is a little piece of sheet metal that drops in from the top kind of in the shape of a roof on a house. My RCBS measure did not come with one, did your LEE?

No, it didn't but I seem to recall in the "what cool things have you made" thread a way to home make one out of a soda can.

I'll do a quick search.

 

[twofifty]

Yes, I played with the screw, and it is a fine line between it feeling good, and leaking like a siv with H335.

....

The strange thing was that the Lee initially felt good, but after several drops, it would seem to bind up more and more. I assume from powder getting between the two tapered surfaces. Possibly it needs to break in more. I only ran two hoppers of H335 through it just to play around and get the feel for the adjustments.

...

A new Lee PPM benefits from having pure graphite powder run through it as a conditioner.

That's what I did anyhow and binding seldom occurs. It delivers stick & flake quite consistently, and ball extremely consistently. It also never leaks.

 

[GLOOB]

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/SAM_0204.jpg
http://s688.photobucket.com/user/gloob27x/media/SAM_0213.mp4.html


The base is a drill press stand, cost about $60.00.
http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606...385448761&sr=8-2&keywords=proxxon+drill+press

I have a couple of them I use for various things. Rarely, as a drill press.

 

[GLOOB]

Yes, I played with the screw, and it is a fine line between it feeling good, and leaking like a siv with H335.

A lot of the time, the Lee PPM parts don't fit together well enough to meter H335 without binding.

The way the two halves fit together, you can lap fit the two halves of the meter with some sort of grinding/buffing compound and some elbow grease. I've got both my PPMs metering H335 smooth as butter. I'm dropping H335 in the video link in my last post.