Lubing straight wall handgun brass

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chas442

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I am sure I am not the only one to lube straight wall handgun cases even with carbide dies. I do it because it reduces the effort to size the cases. I remove the lube before loading.
Here is my question. If lubing the cases reduces the effort, does that work the brass less?
It would seem that reduced effort translates to less heat being produced during resizing. Wouldn't the reduction of heat also mean less working of the brass?

TIA
 
Brass will be less "Worked" when lubed-even in Carbide dies..

For ME..I lay down all cases in a $.69 GoodWill pencil box, spray lightly with my 1 to 10 mixture of Lanolin to Heet (Red Bottle) gas line dryer. Shake the box for a few seconds, and load as normal on my Dillon 550.
No clean of lube in-between..If you like 1/2 hr. or so in the tumbler will clean the case lube off of the loaded rounds,,

Been doing it this way for years..Bill.

PS:The 100% liquid lanolin comes straight from Amazon-The Heet from WallyWorld..
 
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I usually don't lube cases sized with carbide dies. I have before and it greatly reduces the effort required. I'm not seeing how it would reduce how much the brass is worked.
 
I usually lube the larger diameter cases, 44 mag, 45 Colt, 460 Mag, etc., or longer cases like 357 Mag or 38 Special even when using a carbide sizing die. The main reason is to make the resizing process easier. Generally, I use a light spritz of a lanolin/alcohol mix.

Since I tumble the cases after sizing, the lubricant gets removed before loading.

The case will still get worked the same since it will be reduced to the same smaller diameter whether lubricated or not. The lubricant will potentially reduce any surface damage that might occur from running a dry case into the die versus a lubricated. But, that in part is the reason for the carbide resizing ring.

So, lube or not when resizing with carbide dies, whatever floats your boat.
 
So what are we doing wrong for those of us who are able to size pistol brass without lube? Is it more of an issue for those who wet tumble?

Use of NuFinish with walnut does make things more slick ... I guess you could call residual polymer on brass "lube" ;)

Not changing my practice after 25 years and almost 500,000 rounds ... Just saying. :D
 
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I use a very small amount of one shot on 38 and 9mm brass. I put about 300 rounds in a bucket and spray for about a second while shaking the bucket, then continue shaking to distribute it. I do not remove it.
 
I put a little liquid Turtle Wax in my walnut polishing media. Add about a tablespoon every few batches. It helps keeps the dust down and leaves a thin coating on the brass. Makes sizing easier and keeps the brass from tarnishing as quickly afterwards.
 
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I have been lubing every 10th to 15th 9MM case for a couple of years. My old shoulder sure appreciates it. Until then I never lubed cases for carbide dies and considered it good exercise.

Still moves/works the brass the same, just doesn't rub it as hard.
 
First start with clean case's, I tumble in SS pins. Then the larger or tapered case's are given a spray of cheap furniture wax,
That small amount of wax does wonders when resizing pistol brass.
 
I am curious about one thing though.

Has anyone done bullet setback test with lube vs no lube?


I have a feeling that "someone" is about to do such a test!:)

Yes, I lube everything just a spritz of water based diluted LEE lube (wire pulling gel)
No I do not clean it off.

Lube is good :)
 
I do not get bullet setback with lead/coated lead bullets sized larger. I usually do not get bullet setback from jacketed/plated bullets with most headstamp brass.

The initial test between no lube (well, NuFinish treated walnut) and One Shot with jacketed/plated bullets should be enough for me to be convinced if there is no measurable increase in bullet setback. My main focus of test will be on any over spray into the case neck to affect neck tension/bullet setback.

If there is significant bullet setback, I will expand the test to include other brand lube.

And we already have bullet setback data from this myth busting thread I will reference - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...nd-bullet-setback.830072/page-3#post-10715550
 
I do not get bullet setback with lead/coated lead bullets sized larger. I usually do not get bullet setback from jacketed/plated bullets with most headstamp brass.

The initial test between no lube (well, NuFinish treated walnut) and One Shot with jacketed/plated bullets should be enough for me to be convinced if there is no measurable increase in bullet setback. My main focus of test will be on any over spray into the case neck to affect neck tension/bullet setback.

If there is significant bullet setback, I will expand the test to include other brand lube.

And we already have bullet setback data from this myth busting thread I will reference - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...nd-bullet-setback.830072/page-3#post-10715550

Well, and all this might bring up another question. Forget for a moment about bullet setback, I wonder what leaving even a slight amount of case lube does for bolt and bolt face pressure, particularly in rifle rounds? In the M1a, for example, lubed cases (or chamber) would greatly increase the force the bolt lugs would see, causing premature wear or outright failure. Since we are talking about handgun cartridges... I wonder if there might be issues there, too?
 
I only plan to test pistol cartridges for the upcoming Myth Busting thread as soon as I pick up a can of One Shot since OP was "Lubing straight wall handgun brass". :)
 
I have straight walled pistol cases that have been sized in excess of 20 times with no cracking or loss of tension (to a point where it causes any setback).* With the exception of lubing a very small percentage of new brass in 9mm, I don't lube pistol brass. If I am "working" the brass more by lubing it, it doesn't seem to have any effect.

Of course, the working of the brass comes from deformation - the expansion and squeezing back into shape. Friction isn't where working comes from, so I am not surprised that lack of lube hasn't caused work-hardening in my experiences.

* Of course, I also have pistol brass that has cracked and/or lost neck tension. Best I can tell, this relates to the brand/composition of the brass, and the extent to which it was expanded/squeezed during its life.
 
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