Yep.
Lubing straight wall handgun brass
- Thread starter chas442
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Not a thing, you're just straining your shoulders a bit more...if it doesn't bother you, it doesn't make a difference.
The main difference I've noticed is that the motion of working the press handle is smoother which made the whole reloading process smoother. Since I seldom size and seat at the same time, lubing cases makes that process seem to go much quicker
I lube every caliber I load, like most have said it, it just makes the press run smoother to me. I also use Dillon carbide dies in every caliber.
They say you don't have to with carbide dies but I do it any way. Heck it's just a couple of spritz from the spray bottle.
They say you don't have to with carbide dies but I do it any way. Heck it's just a couple of spritz from the spray bottle.
Yep. This is without lube here, imagine how smooth it would go with lube. 9MM takes a lot more force than .38 Spl, and so far is the only caliber I lube (Every 10th to 15thish case by hand, soon to be with a lanolin spray lube) when sizing with carbide dies. That will probably change as I get even older.
Taking the sizing step out of loading makes it so much smoother loading, and reduces OAL spread. Whether you lube to size or not.
I have loaded my own brass and range pick up brass for handguns for many years and dozens of cycles. I get a very low rate of rejects for split cases (maybe 1%) per batch, which is less than my loss rate when shooting at the gravel pits (more like 3%). If you like to lube, then great have fun, but it is totally unnecessary and I don't think you could measure any difference in brass condition, if there is one. For .30 Carbine I do lube a tad to make the stroke easier, but that is a relatively long straight-wall case on not originally a handgun case.
For those that lube are you just lubing the longer revolver cases or even for the shorties such as 9mm, .380, .40, .45ACP?
For those that lube are you just lubing the longer revolver cases or even for the shorties such as 9mm, .380, .40, .45ACP?
When I started lubricating handgun cases sized in carbide dies, it was the larger diameter and/or longer cases.
As my shoulder ages, I’m lubricating more different cartridges. Small runs of 380 ACP might not get lubed but larger runs do.
I tumble the cases after resizing so any lubricant in the case mouth is cleaned away. I doubt I see any difference in set back if the die is set up properly.
Like Walkalong, I decouple sizing from reloading. I find reloading goes smoother with fewer hiccups. For me, I resize the cases shortly after shooting so the resizing session goes quick with only a hundred or two cases.
As my shoulder ages, I’m lubricating more different cartridges. Small runs of 380 ACP might not get lubed but larger runs do.
I tumble the cases after resizing so any lubricant in the case mouth is cleaned away. I doubt I see any difference in set back if the die is set up properly.
Like Walkalong, I decouple sizing from reloading. I find reloading goes smoother with fewer hiccups. For me, I resize the cases shortly after shooting so the resizing session goes quick with only a hundred or two cases.
chas442
Member
Ok. I see some valid arguments being presented. Lets look at it from a different angle. All deformation creates heat such as in resizing a brass case. Another example of deformation and or work hardening is a soda can or any piece of metal being bent in half and then bent in half in the other direction and repeated. Eventually the soda can or piece of metal will start to fail. During that process heat is generated. The heat generated should be detectable to the touch.
That basically means that you are using energy to do the bending. The energy you are exerting is deforming/ work hardening the metal and a by product is heat.
The less energy you use, the less heat is generated.
Doesn't it stand to reason that the less work required with lubed cases will generate less heat. Then doesn't also stand to reason that with less heat generated that you will experience less work hardening.
Let the flaming begin
That basically means that you are using energy to do the bending. The energy you are exerting is deforming/ work hardening the metal and a by product is heat.
The less energy you use, the less heat is generated.
Doesn't it stand to reason that the less work required with lubed cases will generate less heat. Then doesn't also stand to reason that with less heat generated that you will experience less work hardening.
Let the flaming begin
Reeferman
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Ha ha if I tried going that fast my crooked bent mashed mechanic fingers would be mashed even worse.
9MM only, they take more force to size.
A reasonable point, so the next question, is it enough to make a difference in case life?
ColtPythonElite
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Perhaps you should give it a try. Maybe you will enjoy using less effort to work the press handle.
chas442
Member
Probably not in the case of straight wall pistol cases.
Since not all lubes are the same, wouldn't the best possible lube, possibly extend rifle cae life?
Maybe all this discussion is just comjecture.
Maybe it just doesn't matter.
Interesting to find out what people think
The primary cases that I reload are 9mm, .40 and .38Spl
The only one I regularly lube prior to resizing is the 9mm as it requires the most effort.
I would have previously run all the .40 through a Redding G-R/X (I think the name is very clever), so resizing takes little effort.
I'm using the Redding Dual Ring Sizer for .38Spl and have found the sizing action very smooth. Prior to getting the Redding Die, I did lube the cases before resizing with my Hornady set
Load Master
Member
I wet tumble because I like shinny brass. I find things run much smoother and reduced effort with a light dusting of lanolin 1 to 12 ratio with Isopropyl alcohol. No clean up needed. If you run without, your choice.
As to the question of if lube cases see less works hardening. Maybe, but that really isn't a factor in the reason I use lube.
As to the question of if lube cases see less works hardening. Maybe, but that really isn't a factor in the reason I use lube.
jaguarxk120
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Note: the 9mm and 30 carbine case's are not straight walled case's.
They taper and will need some lube in a carbide die.
They taper and will need some lube in a carbide die.
Load Master
Member
While this is mostly true, we need to define what "lube" is. Back before the "shinny brass" needs, some of us just reloaded, no real case cleaning. That black stuff left on the brass after firing acts as a lube. So, though we may not be spraying or rub something on the brass before sizing, it is still lubed from the combustion residue left on the case. Carbide dies don't care about combustion residue and will use it as a lube just the same.
Blue68f100
Member
The heat has no impact on the working of the brass. It's still being work hardened as it's being sized, same amount of work is being done. Take TiNi coated dies. These are extremely slick and smooth. I noticed when I switched over to them the sizing took less effort, as long as the dies are clean. It's also harder than carbide so less wear, as if there was going to be any.
My first coated sizer was a Hornady way back when, and the coating wore off in less than 1K rounds. They must have gotten it figured out if it is slicker than carbide now. I have read that a couple of times, but haven't been brave enough to try one. Anyone else make TiNi coated sizers these days?
CLP
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Blue68f100
Member
I know Redding is using it in some places, bushings. Have not seen them anywhere else but have not been looking. With the TiNi running Rc 80, it's extremely hard. The reason they are coating cutting tools with it to extend the life of carbide.
I don't doubt that, I'm just leery of it staying on, but, I guess I should let it go after already after 30 years.
Maybe I'll try them again.
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