Yep.Of course, the working of the brass comes from deformation - the expansion and squeezing back into shape. Friction isn't where working comes from, so I am not surprised that lack of lube hasn't caused work-hardening in my experiences.
Yep.Of course, the working of the brass comes from deformation - the expansion and squeezing back into shape. Friction isn't where working comes from, so I am not surprised that lack of lube hasn't caused work-hardening in my experiences.
Not a thing, you're just straining your shoulders a bit more...if it doesn't bother you, it doesn't make a difference.So what are we doing wrong for those of us who are able to size pistol brass without lube? Is it more of an issue for those who wet tumble?
Yep. This is without lube here, imagine how smooth it would go with lube. 9MM takes a lot more force than .38 Spl, and so far is the only caliber I lube (Every 10th to 15thish case by hand, soon to be with a lanolin spray lube) when sizing with carbide dies. That will probably change as I get even older.The main difference I've noticed is that the motion of working the press handle is smoother which made the whole reloading process smoother. Since I seldom size and seat at the same time, lubing cases makes that process seem to go much quicker
Ha ha if I tried going that fast my crooked bent mashed mechanic fingers would be mashed even worse.Yep. This is without lube here, imagine how smooth it would go with lube. 9MM takes a lot more force than .38 Spl, and so far is the only caliber I lube (Every 10th to 15thish case by hand, soon to be with a lanolin spray lube) when sizing with carbide dies. That will probably change as I get even older.
Taking the sizing step out of loading makes it so much smoother loading, and reduces OAL spread. Whether you lube to size or not.
9MM only, they take more force to size.For those that lube are you just lubing the longer revolver cases or even for the shorties such as 9mm, .380, .40, .45ACP?
A reasonable point, so the next question, is it enough to make a difference in case life?Doesn't it stand to reason that the less work required with lubed cases will generate less heat. Then doesn't also stand to reason that with less heat generated that you will experience less work hardening.
Perhaps you should give it a try. Maybe you will enjoy using less effort to work the press handle.I have NEVER, in 35 years of reloading straight-walled pistol cases, lubed a case when using carbide dies; but then I start with brass that has been cleaned in my vibratory tumbler.
Probably not in the case of straight wall pistol cases.A reasonable point, so the next question, is it enough to make a difference in case life?
The primary cases that I reload are 9mm, .40 and .38SplFor those that lube are you just lubing the longer revolver cases or even for the shorties such as 9mm, .380, .40, .45ACP?
While this is mostly true, we need to define what "lube" is. Back before the "shinny brass" needs, some of us just reloaded, no real case cleaning. That black stuff left on the brass after firing acts as a lube. So, though we may not be spraying or rub something on the brass before sizing, it is still lubed from the combustion residue left on the case. Carbide dies don't care about combustion residue and will use it as a lube just the same.Note: the 9mm and 30 carbine case's are not straight walled case's.
They taper and will need some lube in a carbide die.
My first coated sizer was a Hornady way back when, and the coating wore off in less than 1K rounds. They must have gotten it figured out if it is slicker than carbide now. I have read that a couple of times, but haven't been brave enough to try one. Anyone else make TiNi coated sizers these days?Take TiNi coated dies. These are extremely slick and smooth. I noticed when I switched over to them the sizing took less effort, as long as the dies are clean. It's also harder than carbide so less wear, as if there was going to be any.
I do.
Put em in a ziploc and give it a spray of Hornady One Shot or something similar and shake it up.
Makes it a lot smoother.
My first coated sizer was a Hornady way back when, and the coating wore off in less than 1K rounds. They must have gotten it figured out if it is slicker than carbide now. I have read that a couple of times, but haven't been brave enough to try one. Anyone else make TiNi coated sizers these days?
I don't doubt that, I'm just leery of it staying on, but, I guess I should let it go after already after 30 years.With the TiNi running Rc 80, it's extremely hard