Lubricating BP Revolvers

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ArmedBear

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I used to use Rig grease and Outers oil years ago. More recently, I've used whatever I had.

Then I read here that BP and synthetic or petroleum lubes don't mix well, so I tried vegetable oil. Now my 1858 is all sticky and I have to take it apart and clean it again before I shoot it. I'm not callin' anyone a liar, but let's say I'm not buying the vegetable oil thing, now that I've tried it. And Bore Butter doesn't seem to work worth spit on the arbor -- wrong consistency.

So...

What do YOU use to lube the arbor?

The loading lever pivots?

The internals?

What about cleaning and rust prevention, while we're at it?

I've used Hoppes BP solvent and hot water, or even 409 and water, followed by Outers oil. That was years ago, though. What's out there now that I should know about?

Also, I used to use compressed air to dry the thing, but I don't have a good source of it any more. What about drying?

Finally, what about cleaning the nipples?

Thanks!:)
 
I did a write on this a few months ago and others tried it and were pretty happy as well. Same boat on the arbor shaft i have used a lot of things already. What i have been using now is just normal gun oil. I found on the arbor shaft. The less the better as it builds up on the front. For the internals the absolute best stuff to use better than anything. Graphite. Go buy the cylinder lock stuff at your auto parts store. The powdered tube type. Clean the revolver really really good. Make sure its dry. Then put graphite on the internals. Here is what i found. For one it keeps the internals very very clean. it attracts nothing. Unlike lubes or grease. That attract black powder residue and sometimes spent caps. Graphite attracts nothing. Keeps the parts lubed very good. If you every get a spent cap in the works you can turn the gun upside down and shake it and it will come out. It wont stick to anything. Go out shoot 3-20-30-40 rounds. Come back home and open up the revolver. You will see a very clean gun that did not even need to be opened up.
 
What about internal rust prevention with graphite?

I've used Bullfrog on the internals and shot the gun a few sessions without cleaning anything but the cylinder, frame and barrel. However, I did get some rust around the hole for the hammer -- seems that there's some BP blowback behind the nipples.

And can you use really cheap generic whisky, or does it have to be Jack Daniels? Do you get better accuracy with single malt Scotch?:D
 
no rust at all. Thats why you just have to make sure its clean and dry. If you put graphite on a wet area it wont protect. I have 4 revolvers now that i have been using graphite on for some time now. it really works good.
 
Use the hottest water helps. But Mechanical is the best. I after i am done cleaning them i take out my wifes hair dryer. The hot air blow through really gets all the water out. Especially in the areas you can not see. Works like a charm.
 
I was thinking of getting a cheap hair dryer for the purpose, so it doesn't matter if I get it all dirty.:)
 
hahahha now your thinking remember most black powder revolvers rust away rather than get done over by abuse
 
Exactly.

Having owned and used the things, I'm often astounded that some original examples I've seen aren't covered with rust. I wonder how they did it back then, especially outdoors.
 
i dont remember where i read it. Or how it actually went. But someone i recall posted where they found some very old revolvers that were in a barrel of oil. They all looked brand new. I guess they were put in there over a hundred years ago. I think that was posted on the general discussion page during the summer
 
Liquid cosmoline, essentially. Doesn't preserve the grips too well, but otherwise...

What about the guns that were carried by cowboys and the like? I've seen a (totally unbelievable) private collection in Montana, and I could have taken any of the guns, loaded it up, and plinked with it. BP revolvers, Sharps rifles, lever guns, whatever, all clean and rust-free, dating back up to 150 years.

They weren't stored in a bucket of oil; they had been sitting in ranch houses, and here and there. They'd been used, too: he had a huge book he'd assembled with the provenance of the various guns. They'd belonged to lawmen and outlaws, ranchers and buffalo hunters, most of them significant in local history. These guns had been used as workaday tools, in Western Montana.
 
Not a rich guy, either. Just someone whose family was a part of all that history, and who was interested in it. People in the area knew he would be interested in guns they inherited or found.
 
I've only been shooting BP revolvers for about 5 years and so can't talk about really long term stuff. Anyway, I tried Scrat's graphite suggestion and it works for me re the internals. For the rest I use Ballistol with a light dab of white lithium based grease on the Colt arbours.

I think that, if you care for your weapons, pretty well any system of cleaning and rust prevention will work fine. For long term storage coat them in cosmoline or similar.
 
i sometimes use warrens 2 cycle engine oil , the stuff you mix with gas and use with the chainsaw. its great as a soak in removing old grease and as a rust inhibiter
 
I was unable to remove the trigger & bolt spring screw so I could not strip clean my '61 Uberti Navy. After cleaning the cylinder, barrel & outside of the frame I sprayed the innards with WD-40. I shot the gun off & on for about 15 years. Finally I had a padded vise and decent screwdriver and got the screw out. There was a TON of black mush & several cap frags but no rust. The gun functioned fine. I will try the graphite on a gun or two but have found that even though the oil gathers soot, the metal is still protected from the corrosive effects by the oily fouling. I rarely tear down the insides for cleaning. I just put plenty of oil down into the works. Yup, they're dirty & ugly but do fine. When I first get a gun I do tear it down, stone off burrs, grease all moving contact surfaces, except the sear, oil screws, and apply anti-seize compound to the nipple threads. I use cheap rotgut automotive grease on the arbor and internal working surfaces. Your mileage will vary.
 
i used bore butter on the arbor pin for about two years, then i got my cartridge conversion an use rem oil..... only thing i dont like about the conversion is the heavy clicking soud when you spin the cylinder on half cock.... i think it is where the k ring goes aroung the cylinder for a loading gate. i think a heaver grease may smooth that out though!
 
I use Ballistol.
Click to expand...

+1 on the Ballistol. It well absorb any moisture left on your gun after cleaning. Cleans and dissolves traces of lead and copper. Mildly alkaline, neutralizes acids. Dissolves black powder residue. Is safe for wood and leather. Does not from hard deposits like petroleum based oils well. For greasing the arbors on open top Colts I use one of my grease cookies, a bees wax and olive oil concoction.
Ballistol also cleans composite frame firearms. They can get kind of 'flat' looking after a while, the Ballistol makes the compost material look brand new. Works great on heat guards on M1A'a and AR's.
 
This is some geat info. I'm still waiting for SS Remington New Army to come in. I kinda wish I would of bought from Cabela's, but I picked it up from the Sports man's guide and I have the club membership. I'll pick up some graphite lube in a few days. I did make some ball lube out of beeswax, lard, and olive oil. Hobby Lobby has all there candles on sale half off. I picked up a pound of yellow beeswax for 8 bucks. The stuff was kinda hard once it cooled after the mixing. but I used a fork and butter knife to mix it up with so now it has the consistancy of chap stick, not to hard and not to soft.
 
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