M&p 340

[jfh]

Some various responses here--

Marvin Knox: I think I would sight in your M&P 340 this way:

1. Determine at what distance you shoot to POA with your selected factory PD ammo. For the sake of discussion, let's say that is the GDSB 38+P 135-gr. round. Use the hold / sight picture you are most comfortable with.

Further, do this off a benchrest, but use your two-handed grip (see the Jerry Miculek videos for j-frame grips) and rest your grip on sandbags, not the 340. This procedure minimizes POA issues with grip shift, which readily occurs with the smaller / shorter grips.

2. Further, I'll assume that this 38+P round shoots to POA at 15 yards.

3. Now set the laser to shoot to POA at 15 yards--i.e., when you shoot, the (laser) dot disappears.​

Now I would proceed to shooting the practice ammo and determining what change there may be from the factory ammo POA, at the same distance. If you find the difference to be distracting, readjust the laser as needed to shoot to the POA for the practice ammo you have, and at the practice distance. Note the adjustment needs--i.e., how much of a turn you apply for both windage and elevation, and readjust for each ammo.

Overall, however, I am with DAdams--the laser dot shakes so much that, without a Ransom / whatever brand rest, the repeatability is difficult. Off a bench rest, I can get sub-1" groups, 8 or 9/10 with CFs, at 10 to 15 yards--but that's currently the limit of my eyesight. If you can do better, caveats. IMO the inherent accuracy is there. (See Stephen Camp's j-frame ammo reports from j-frames.)

Keep in mind that "sighting in" a defensive handgun is meant to maximize the defensive capability of the user, and not the inherent accuracy of the firearm. Generally, I consider the two goals to be conjunctive--but I do not "think about" inherent accuracy when I practice, I emphasize practical accuracy.

DAdams: If the road is not a mess, I may actually get to the range this week to begin testing the various loads I've worked up this winter. After last week's snow storm, the temp hit 69F yesterday.

Most of the new development has emphasized reloads for the "FBI-load" ballistics. At the most basic level, that's a 158-gr. LSWC-HP running at about 800-820 fps from a 2" barrel. (Again, see Stephen Camp). It's a 38+P load, per the Remington 38S12 and the Georgia Arms 38E product numbers.

I have got that replicated now--e.g., the "replica recoil" testing--with both Speer 158LSWC-HP and various brand 158-gr. LSWC bullets and with various powders. Historically, the preferred "retail" powder for doing this has been SR-4756--and I am beginning to see why, I think, but I'll know shortly if the chrono tests hold up.

There is also a "38+P+" load with enhanced ballistics--originally loaded in 38 Special cases, but with LOA set to 357 Magnum. I've moved this load into 357 cases--why hotrod 38 Specials if the revolver shoots 357 Magnums--and this load is stout in a 340, but entirely (re-) shootable. This one should run about 875-900 fps, I think, and it really is a "357-light" load: I estimate the pressure to be about 24,000. I'm projecting the velocity for this round to be approaching 900.

Caution: this is an over-spec load for current 38+P SAMMI standards, and should be shot only in modern handguns.
(The THR disclaimer).

For now, here's an existing recipe to use for the 'standard' 38+P FBI load:

about 6.2 gr. of SR-4756 under a Speer 158LSWC-HP, firmly crimped at mid-cannelure. LOA will be about 1.460, depending on your cases.

The 357-light load uses about 6.8 gr., with a similar crimp and LOA at about 1.590+. ​

As for those 158-gr. Buffalo Bore loads--no, the only ones I've shot so far have been their 38+P+ / 158-gr LSWC-HP that runs 1000 fps from a 2" barrel. (That's reported on earlier in this thread.) I carried this load through the winter, but I will probably go back to the GDSB 38+P 135-gr. load and emphasize better / faster quad fives.

Jim H.

 

[colt1903]

Dan-O:

It appears that we do have twin guns and the clip draw does make the 340 easy to pack. With small grips and an untucked polo shirt, no one is the wiser.

I am particularly drawn to the J frames right now:

I would love to get my hands on a couple of the classic series Js and the Model 60 Pro Series.

Mr. Adams:

The SGDSB .357 is in short supply up here. Only Gander Mountain carries it and they are currently out of stock.

I have not yet seen the Buffalo Bore .357 reduced recoil. Only Cabelas stocks that brand and they are an hour and a half drive so I do not get their often. I have tried their .38 + P and the 9mm + P and they definately mean business.

 

[DAdams]

Colt

1903.

Good to see you around. I missed the "average joe" reference in your earlier post. You can call me DAdams, you can call me Dennis, but for goodness sake drop the superlative "Mr." I haven't been called that since I taught 6th grade in Idaho in the mid 70s.

Gander Mtn is the only place I have found the .357 SGDFSB also and it always seem I get their last box. I have two boxes in reserve now.

I actually am ok with the BB +P. I may get a box of the .357 for SB just for kicks. I usually order it directly from BB.

I am going to begin loading can I say it "rolling my own" this fall and trying some of jfh's replica formulas. I bought a Hornady LnL progressive for Xmas when they had the 1000 round bullet promo special. I need to add some other items but I am getting in the mode.

I looking for a nice Colt DS or Cobra myself. Figure if I am going to get a steel snubbie I may as well get a six shooter.

 

[FranklyTodd]

SBGD .357s

I couldn't find the Speer Short Barrel .357s for MONTHS. I think it's coming back. I bought two boxes from here:

http://ammunitiontogo.com/catalog1/product_info.php?pName=20rds-357-mag-speer-gold-dot-short-barrel-135gr-hp-ammo&cName=357-magnum-hollow-point-ammo

As of this posting it is still in stock. Reasonable shipping, and got here fast.

Just got out today and shot it back to back with WWB .38s and SGDSB .38+Ps. Actually the first few times I just randomly loaded it with all three, spun it without looking, and then shot. Surprise!

As I (controversially) noted above, I'm not a ballistics guy at all. I wish I had something really profound to day, but I don't. Certainly you can tell the difference. Mixing them in, the .38s felt like 22s!

Between the +P and the .357, it's hard to quantify, maybe 10% more recoil? It stung, and yes the gun kicked up a smidge higher, but I really don't think it substantially affected my recovery / second (and subsequent) shot.

I have no idea if a 10% increase in subjective recoil is worth a 30% increase in energy delivered (294 vs. 222) and a 15% increase in velocity (990 vs. 860). I don't think there's ONE answer. Shoot 'em both and decide for yourself.

For me, I'm going to carry the .357s. I do worry (a little) about the tiniest chance that I'll someday be in front of a jury after a SD shoot - "so you chose MAGNUM rounds for your carry?"

(btw, shot the new LCP, too - what a pea-shooter by comparison!)

 

[Marvin KNox]

SBGD 357's

I got my .357 GDSB’s from Ammunition To Go also.

After I posted my last post asking about trajectories and the like, I reread it. Then I remember telling myself that I’d better just “shut-up and shoot”.

I should be getting a shipment tomorrow of what will be my practice ammo for the foreseeable future. But I just had to go down to the range and rip a few rounds off while I’m waiting. After this week end I’ll get this thing sighted in and such like I’ve been talking about.

I bought some of the range’s Mag-tech stuff to plink with. I also squeezed off a couple of rounds with the 357’s. The first 357 rapped my left index finger with the trigger guard. No big deal. But it gave me a reminder to watch my grip with 357’s. I’d never done that with the 38’s.

Right at the end of the session I decided to do a cylinder or two of fast firing. The indoor range has a one second rule between rounds – but I cheated a bit since there were no other shooters there. The fast cylinder of Mag-techs was fun - even if it was useless in any meaningful way.

Then I decided on a lark to stuff 5 357’s in the cylinder and fire them real fast. I took a two-hand grip and fired the cylinder. Although I was firing quickly, I distinctly remember thinking after the first two rounds that that wasn’t too hard to get back on target after the recoil. But between rounds 4 and 5 I remember very quickly considering whether I really wanted to “waste” that last round – since I wasn’t having any fun.

I guess I’m saying that there is definitely a difference, even though the 357’s will be “doable” in time. I’ve seen enough to know that stronger 357’s will be out of the question in the future. I’m glad the Speers are loaded the way they are. For me, at least, the 357GDSB’s are right there at my threshold of enjoyment and recovery between shots.

I’ll revisit the 357’s after getting my equipment set up. Right now I’m thinking that the first couple or 3 just might be 38+p’s followed up by a couple of 357’s. One wouldn’t want extra thoughts about rapped knuckles or recoil going through their head in a gunfight. One would want to “stay on task” during the real thing.

Of course, after more training, I may well find that those kinds of thoughts will go away after getting more used to shooting. I hope that will be the case. I really would like to carry the 357's.

We’ll see – I’m looking forward to some meaningful sighting in and training starting next week.

Thanks, everyone, for your input so far – I’ll let you know how it goes.

MARV

 

[bigsid]

Question about CT grips on 340

Hey all, mind if I ask a pre-purchase question about the M&P 340? I really want to get one for my daily carry with the CT grips, my concern is that I am a big guy with very large hands and I was wondering if it was possible that my hands could block the laser when holding the gun? It looks mounted fairly high on the grip but I cant find one locally to hold and test. Anyone with big hands had this problem?

Also what does the recoil with full .357 loads compare to, I have shot large handguns many times (.44, .454 Casull), how bad can it really be?

Thanks alot for the help!

 

[FranklyTodd]

One wouldn’t want extra thoughts about rapped knuckles or recoil going through their head in a gunfight. One would want to “stay on task” during the real thing.

I have certainly never been in a gunfight, but in some less-lethal but in a less-lethal but still scary scrape, I found the adrenaline dump makes one:

1) very strong
2) impervious to pain, short term
3) incapable of fine motor skills

I really do NOT find the .357s enjoyable to shoot at all. I will probably shoot 50 38s and 5 .357s at most practice sessions. I think that's fine, and I have no worries that harsh recoil will cross my mind should I get in a serious SD pinch.

BTW, my drawing-blood experience was my right thumb-knuckle (Blazer .357s when the gun was brand new). Gripped too high, and the cylinder release slide nailed it. You could actually see the skin and blood caked in the knurling - talk about adding character to a gun!

 

[FranklyTodd]

how bad can it really be

It's not bad at all, try it, you'll like it... My first time out, the guy at the range GAVE me a handfull of .357s just to watch me shoot them and cry...

I haven't shot a 44 in a number of years. I think the pain from a scandium .357 partially comes from how small the surface area of the grip is - it's a pounds per square inch thing (and of course the light weight of the gun). With the stock grips, the metal frame goes right up against your hand.

If you shot a 44 with tiny grips, I'm sure it would be just as bad. The 44 I shot had big 'ol grips, and while it rocked my whole body, it wasn't really that hard on the hand. Those that shoot the 340 with Monogrips say it's MUCH nicer - just doesn't fit as many places...

I can't imagine the CT grips getting in the way, my hand clears it by a mile (though they aren't large). Any decent size gun shop should have a j-frame something with CT grips. They all go on the same way.

By the way, my local shop has them WITH CT grips for $750 - that's pretty good... PM me if interested.

 

[Marvin KNox]

Big Sid,
I wear large gloves. So I guess I must have large hands. I have no problem because of it.

The trigger finger is the only part that would come anywhere near the laser and it's well below where the laser light comes out.

I can and do block the laser light when my trigger finger is extended along the side (as it should be until actually trying to shoot). But I think that is not what you mean. That would be true for almost anyone - I would think.

MARV

 

[Marvin KNox]

BigSid,

I spent some time at the range today and did a little practice shooting.

I ran into a friend there who happens to be a very, VERY, large man. I remembered your question and my response to it above. I decided to let him try the 340 with the CT405's.

He has hands that make mine look small by comparison and rather (excuse the expression) "fat" fingers.

The flesh on his trigger finger just behind the second knuckle did indeed block the laser beam when in the firing position.

I stand corrected. As others have suggested - I would find some to try out before spending money on them.

If you have this problem, there are other brands where this would perhaps not be an issue.

MARV

 

[bigsid]

Thanks for the help guys, Im always having to look at weird things like that because of my size, I'll keep looking around for one to test or I just might try the 340 without the CT grips, not really necessary, just something I would like to have.

 

[FranklyTodd]

This is an option - don't know anything about them - I looked at them but opted for CT. Your hand certainly wouldn't get in the way. I actually like that it is closer to the bore axis.

http://www.lasermax.com/category.php?id=8

 

[stanley_white]

I shot my M&P 340 yesterday for the first time.

I put 50 rounds of Federal .357 Magnum 125 Grain JHPs through it.

The recoil was sharp but manageable and had little impact on my ability to follow-up with a second shot.

I should mention that I swapped out the factory Hogue Bantam grips with a set of Pachmayr Compac ones which I am sure contribute GREATLY to its contralibility when shooting this load.

 

[Dr.Paul]

Newbie with comment and question

Info on this site is great-thanks for making it 38 sp. easier!
Used 38sp. wadcutters 130gr. at range with my new 340M&P CT-recoil not a problem(PMC)
Other than cleaning bore and charge holes with my "snake", do I need to do anything else-?lube trigger or any pivot points. I am concerned about cleaning agents near the laser eye.

Thanks

Paul

 

[jfh]

"...I am concerned about cleaning agents near the laser eye."​

Although I do not routinely remove my CT grips while cleaning, I have learned the hard way to keep cleaning solvents off the eye. They apparently "bake on," and your dot becomes a variation on an image out of the port of the Enterprise.

It is a PITA to remove them. So, do remove the grips (your sighting-in will most likely hold) or protect the aperture with a dot of tape. Further back in this thread are more comments on this problem...take your time and read the whole thing; there's lots of good info here.

As for lubing and cleaning tips--see the threads at the top of the "Handguns: Revolvers" forum for good detail. Personally, I clean my j-frames after each range trip--and especially so for the M&P 340, my daily carry. Lubing is typically handled by a dot of CLP on the crane / extractor, a dot at the hand, and a dot on the shaft end.

I shoot reloads for practice in mine, and the lead bullet residue tends to gum up the cylinder--again, there's more on that earlier in the thread. I do use Hoppe's Elite products for cleaning, per S&W's recommendations, but mine has also seen more than a fair amount of B-C (original) gun scrubber and some of the more traditional solvents, with no ill effects. The finish is very durable--more so than bluing, IMO. Again, see the comments earlier in this thread; I took pictures of it after 1000 rounds had been shot.

And, of course, welcome to the forum!

Jim H.

 

[FranklyTodd]

It is a PITA to remove them. So, do remove the grips (your sighting-in will most likely hold) or protect the aperture with a dot of tape.

If we're sharing - I do remove mine each cleaning - it takes less than 15 seconds, and the aim does hold (and the aim can be checked in another 5 seconds).

I put 50 rounds of Federal .357 Magnum 125 Grain JHPs through it.

The recoil was sharp but manageable and had little impact on my ability to follow-up with a second shot.

Wow - you da man! I agree that I can control full-house .357s for follow up shots, but I shot 20 GDSB .357s on Friday and my hand literally still hurts. I push a pencil for a living, and will never be able to shoot as much as jfh and condition my hand.

Unlike some, I don't think the fact that it hurts afterwards matters. I'm happy to practice with .38s, shoot a couple .357s each time. I've switched to carrying the GDSB 135gr. .357s. They don't hurt at the time, and there is no way that recoil would cross my mind if I ever was involved in a shoot.

 

[JJ62]

Member
Posted 15 April 2008 11:12 AM
I joined this forum recently, but I have been reading it for quite some time. I recently met a man you may know. His name is R.J. Hedley; he is a very talented holster maker and designer. He has been kind enough to show me his craft and how he makes his holsters. That is why you see such an influence in the ones I have made. I would like you to look at them and give me some input good or bad. I am open to any criticism. Like I said I am new to this craft which I enjoy immensely. I am going to be selling these for $50.00. I also make holsters for Seecamp,Kel-Tec P.32/.380 & PF-9,NAA Gardian .32 & .380,22LR & 22 MAG $40.00 respectively. Ruger LCP is coming. I can be contacted at (813)-404-8155 or E-mail at [email protected]

 

[Marvin KNox]

Smith and Wesson

Yesterday I loaded up all my stuff for some very serious laser sight-in work at the range since I had the day off. I finally had the big picture concerning fixed sight/laser relationships, ammo trajectories and all the rest. I needn’t have been so concerned with the fine points as I was. It just took a little sorting out to get the big picture concerning shooting a snubbie for S.D. Thanks for all the help, by the way.

I drove all the way down to the range only to find that the Feds had booked the range for the entire week during the hrs. when I like to go (less crowds). I was really “p.o.’d”. to say the least. I didn’t ask which Feds had the range. If it had been the I.R.S. I’d really have blown my cool after just sending in a butt load of taxes.

Anyway, after I got home I went through my stuff and discovered that Smith and Wesson neglected to include any wrenches for my C.T.’s with the new 340 I bought. I really would have been ticked if I had paid my range fee, unpacked all my stuff, fired a bunch of rounds and reached for the laser wrench and found it missing.

I call Crimson Trace and informed them about things. They said they’d put a couple of wrenches in the mail today for me. I was happy with their attitude.

I’m not at all happy with Smith and Wesson. Not only did they not give me wrenches for a factory-installed item – I’d already decided that I was unhappy with them because of the user’s manual they included with the gun.

It does seem to me that an item that sells for $1100 retail would have a dedicated manual for it. I’d expect that manual to be loaded with schematics concerning breakdown, maintenance and everyday care. I’d expect it to be loaded with ideas and data concerning ammo, trajectories, laser use and shooting in general. I know that most of us don’t need these things – but not everyone who purchases a new gun is a seasoned gun nut with a half dozen pistols.

Is it just me? – Or does this corporation (for all the fame and nostalgia associated with it) fail to measure up to what it should be in this regard?

(Love my snubbie, though! I wouldn’t trade it for two Glocks.)

MARV

 

[Okee]

Well, I have officially joined the Dark Side. I have been researching a new carry gun for a while and decided on the M&P 340. I've had it for about a week and am 100% satisfied with it. I have put 150 rounds through it and really enjoy shooting it.Reading some of the post on here had me a little worried about recoil but it ended up being a pleasure for me to shoot using +p ammo.

I have shot: Double Tap 125gr HP+p, Magtech 125gr FMJ(non +p), and Black Hills 125gr HP+p, all shot great and to the point of aim. It is carried in a Desantis Nemesis in my front pocket and is a wonderful change to the Glock26 it is replacing. I found myself leaving the Glock in the truck, because its weight was too much for my South Florida attire. This is my first snubbie and I will recommend it to anyone looking for pocket carry. The plans are to try some .357's in light and heavy loads later this week.

Okee

 

[SQ Stalker]

Hello yall and congrats on a great forum! I've read through this entire thread. A lot of great info.

I just joined the club with a new M&P340CT. This is by far the best CCW I've ever handled. From the great advice on this site I ordered a great PH from MIKA.

It has made one break in trip to the range. 175 rounds down the tube. 150 rounds of bulk WIN 130 38's, 15 rounds of cheap 38+P, and 10 rounds of HEAVY 357 Buffalo Bore 125 grain(802 Ft. Lb.)! As others have said I was ready for a bull fight when the first round went off, but to my suprise the 38's were pleasant to shoot while the HVY 357's let you know your still kickin' but are not painfull. I was able to hand the 357's reasonably well with follow ups.

To anybody that's ridin' the fence, go'on and jump on board with the best CCW made. I'm not a large man, 5'7" 160lbs, and wear a small size glove. I do contribute some of the managability of the 357 rounds to the cushion in the CT 405 grips( which I think are just the right size).

The laser is great. Fairly visible at a middle day bright shooting sesion. And well factory sighted in. I only had to turn them upward 1/4 turn to match POI for the 357's.(Note when removing the grips, BECAREFUL not to loose the lanyard pin that drops out when removing the grips. Could have been better designed in that aspect. I found my pin in the couch cushion during reassembly)

I also did not experience any malfunctions of any kind. The cylinder maybe wouldn't spin quite as free after almost 200 rounds. But if I'd just pick'd up the firearm I wouldn't have suspected anything. It all returned back to normal after a good tear down and cleaning with Hoppes Elite.

While inside the M&P I installed Wolff hammer and return springs. Which lowered the 13 Lb+(ridiculous) trigger to a little better 10 Lb pull. The hammer spring was a peace of cake, the return spring was a bit aggrevating.

This little gun shoots great. Below is a picture of a five shot group shot free handed, standing up. Not bad for a Scandium snubie.



Below is a picture of the much debated S&W LOCK. I have labeled two spots that I believe that I can grind off to eliminate the possibility of the lock engaging when it's not wanted(caused by heavy recoil). The first notch engages the hammer, and the second is the notch that engages the lock.

I believe that either of them could work, does anyone have any experience with eliminating either???

Next range trip will be to test the Wolff springs, removed Lock notch(not sure which one), and some Glaser silver pills(on back order from midway). Does anybody have any experience with the glassers? I think It'll prove to be a good carry load, with 357 power and less recoil due to the light 80 grain pills. I believe I read that one member recomends them in this thread.



Below a pic of the inards of the M&P. (Hammer spring removed)



Please excuse the rambling. It happens when I get new toys.

Enjoy.

ALL INFO IS APPRECIATED!

 

[dirtpig67]

Just picked up a 340 M&P the other day and it is quite the pleasure to carry. I am new to S&W brand revolvers (mostly Ruger prior to this) and need some info.

How does one go about removing the cylinder for easier cleaning? I am assuming it involves removing a screw or two from the right side but I wanted to make sure since there was nothing in the manual regarding this.

Also, is there any online resources that outline how to remove the sideplate? I have no plans to take it off at this time, but I would like to have the info on hand in case I ever need/want to.

Thanks.

 

[jfh]

dirtpig67: Since you sound like you are reasonably knowledgable about revolvers, these are the short directions:

1. To remove the cylinder and crane, unscrew the sideplate screw on the right side, just above the trigger. The cylinder assembly will then slide out.

2. If you want to break down the cylinder--and you probably will, see the comments further down--then be aware that the extractor rod assembly is threaded backwards. That is, from the front end, turn it clockwise to undo it.

A google will help you find the general online instructions for S&W revolvers. Brownells has a schematic; and I recommend you buy the Kuehnhausen (sp?) S&W revolver book as well for complete gunsmithing details.

Those of us who shoot reloads in the M&P 340 have found cylinder shaft binding from crud buildup in as little as fifty rounds. I think this is mostly because of typical reloading issues like bullet lube and combustion efficiency, but you will want to clean and re-oil the cylinder assembly. I've left my frame innards alone--if you look back a few pages, you will see pictures of my M&P 340 after 1000 rounds or so.

Jim H.

 

[Marvin KNox]

LASER SIGHT IN RESULTS

I thought that perhaps someone would be interested in my results from sighting in the CT laser. The red dot started off (out of the box) way off. My groups were inches right and low to start with.

I sighted it in with my bulk practice ammo - (Federal “American Eagle” 130 grain FMJ.38 spl.)

http://www.federalcartridge.com/ballistics/Ammo_Search.aspx?act=choose&firearm=2&s1=1

I shot from a heavy tarp rest with the butt of the 340 rested on the material rather than the 340 itself – as per Jim’s suggestion. I went for roughly a 15 yd. POA/POI. Crimson Trace says that they figure 50’ for dead on distance with pistols. 45’ is good enough for government work and besides there is a range marker on the wall at 15 yds.

All I wanted to do was to get the laser where I could trust it to be generally on the subject if I did my part. I feel that it has been accomplished - at least until I get a little better with the gun. Then I will revisit the laser sight-in sessions - perhaps.

Results follow roughly – I’m not a great shot with this thing yet, mostly because of the trigger I think:

3 ½ yds. POI is about a half inch to the left and about ¾” high of POA. Groups were around 1 and ½”.

7 yds. POI is still a half inch left and a little high of POA Groups were around 2”.

15 yds. POI is just slightly right and slightly low of POA. Groups were around 3”.

My carry ammo is Speer Gold Dots 135 gr. for Short Barrels.

http://le.atk.com/general/speerproducts/handgun/GoldDotShortBarrel.aspx

I’m carrying .38 spl.+p’s for the first two shots and 3-.357 magnums to finish. I’m thinking that that way the 1st 3 rounds will not be affected by any barrel jump/recovery issues at all and not much for the last two rounds as far as I can tell.

The +p’s are slightly higher than the practice rounds and the .357’s are pretty much dead on at 15 yds. They seem to be a bit more accurate than the Federals as far as the limited shooting I did can tell me. Perhaps when I get a larger supply of carry ammo on hand, I’ll work with it more to refine it when I revisit the laser sight in issue.

Right now – I’ll leave the laser “on” for home protection and carry and feel fairly confident with it. I’ll work with it at home for trigger control feed back and I’ll generally visit the range with iron sights to build proficiency with them. I’ll practice iron sight acquisition and point shooting for a while. I’m thinking that only a few rounds will be with the laser while at the range for the next few months.

MARV

 

[jfh]

Sounds good, Marv--truly.

Given your marksmanship background, I am guessing that your group sizes are entirely a function of the trigger newness and the light weight--e.g., light guns bobble more.

BTW, I too ordered that same belt (from Looper Law Enforcement) you did, and after hearing nothing for awhile, it arrived yesterday after my CC was processed on the 30th. I'm entirely satisfied--it certainly is a better value than the "heavy" dress belt I bought at JCP last year. I wouldn't call it a duty belt, of course, but it will do fine for holster carry, IWB or OWB.

Jim H.

 

[Marvin KNox]

Jim,
For $29.95 it's OK if a belt doesn't last a lifetime. Also the 340s don''t really weigh that much nor are we carrying all the stuff that an "on-duty" guy wears.

If it starts to show wear in time I can always use it for really casual wear.

How long did that take to get the belt from them?

MARV