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OH that would be a hard one I have a Mosin Nagant and all I know is it was probally owned by a hunter in Russia. I dont know if you could find that info. Be cool if you could!
Unfortunately, battalion, company, unit information for small arms is not available. You'll have to satisfy yourself with knowing the month and year of manufacture, and perhaps if it served in another country's military (the CMP's current M1 Garands are returns from Greece).
The military didn't keep records of where a rifle had been or who used it.
All they cared about was where is was NOW, and who was responsible for it.
Since old records about where weapons had been had no value to the military, they were destroyed almost immediately.
You can't even make a judgment about where two rifles with consecutive numbers were when you know where one of them went.
Rifles were manufactured and shipped to an ordnance depot who then shipped individual rifles everywhere.
One rifle may have gone to the Pacific and another to a post in Georgia.
thx for the replies guys it would have been nice to have found out the history of my garand but as for my mosin,i know its history its a 1929 tula arsenal built and it sat in storage as surplus covered in packing grease for about 80 years it was never issued nor was it used in combat i guess you could say i got myself a brand new 80 year old rifle for a 100 bucks (lol) one heck of a deal
tankmech, I would imagine your nagant was taken out of storage for the Great Patriotic War (ie WW2). I know most of them were refurbished after the war and then sat in storage, thus the cosmoline/decent condition. I could be wrong but I just know the Soviets were caught rather off guard by the Germans and so I think they threw everything they had into service (especially when they had to shut down the armaments factories to move them to safety). So you've probably got a true war relic refurbed after the war.
CZguy what distance was that target perforated at? It looks like we have the same rifle, mine is a '44 SA but not all correct.
I just refinished the stock with BLO.
Actually it was just fifty yards, I'm having trouble seeing with iron sights past that. Getting older isn't near as much fun as I thought it was going to be.
My Garand dates to Nov 1940. I like to imagine someone used it to take pot shots torpedo bombers at Pearl Harbor. But more realistically it probably banged around in the back of a truck at Fort Dix for a bunch of years.
czguy and mals9 great looking garands as for mine,the stock looks like it was attacked by an angry beaver with a weed eater lol im getting a new stock with metel and im gonna leave the old one alone cause somehow i feel it was on a battlefield somewhere.but here are some things i know about it.....the reciever is S.A.1944 the barrel is S.A. 9 48 the op rod is S.A. the gas plug is HRA the trigger housing is HRA the hammer is I.H.the windage knob has DRC stamped on it does anyone know what that means?anyway,i did get it checked out by a gunsmith unfortunatly the only thing he could gauge was the headspace and that was good i know the riflings are wore thats to be expected but i put a bullet in the end of the muzzle and have about an 1/8th of an inch clearance before the muzzle touches brass does anyone think it would be helpful to get the muzzle recrowned?
Tankmech; Here's some backround on the M1 you might find interesting.
From the article "Accurizing The M1 Rifle, by J. B. Roberts, Jr. "When the glass bedding job on my DCM M-1 was completed, the rifle, which had sprayed hits all over the SR bullseye, shot well within acceptable criteria for the National Match M1 rifle. Those limits were not tough; 3 1/2" average extreme spread for three shot groups at 100 yards range; no single group over 5" extreme spread."
Chances are that your target hits are close to the above 1961 standards. If you can get 4" groups @ 100yards, that's pretty good shooting, for a M1 Garand.
Tankmech, Nicks on the crown is not good. But you may be able to improve the crown yourself.
Find a brass round head screw with a 1/4 x 20 thread pitch. Chuck up the screw in a hand drill. Place some automobile valve lapping compound on the screw head, and use the round head of the screw to polish the damaged crown. If the nicks are minor, the lapping compound will polish them out.
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