M37 shell lifter and slide removal question

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dak0ta

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Hi,

Mine came out as two pieces when disassembling, it appears that one arm's soldering broke off cleanly where it attaches to the bridge that connects the two arms. Can I epoxy this piece back on? The gun functioned fine as 2 separate pieces surprisingly, so should I just leave it as is?

Also, I was trying to remove the slide by pushing the slide pin out of the way, but even when I move it, the slide won't come out. I am pushing on the longer thinner pin if that is the correct one. The other pin is a thicker stubbier one that doesn't move. My gun is 1948, so is there anything different I should be doing?
 
Can I epoxy this piece back on?
No.

1. It wasn't soldered together in the first place, It was repaired with solder and that didn't hold.

2. Epoxy is way weaker then solder.

You need a new lifter thats all in one piece like they made it.

rc
 
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Call Ithaca Gun Co. at 419-294-4113 they have all the new parts you need to fix your gun.

The Model 37 is made today as it first was and is one of the best shotguns you will ever find.
 
I just JB-welded the arm back on and clamped it. The gun functions fine with it broken, so I guess if I sort of repair it to one functional piece, then it should be fine.
 
JB Weld won't holdup where it is broken. A new carrier is $25.49 and the part number is 371213-2 3/4.

The factory phone number is 419-294-4113 and talk to Zak Amert, he's the parts/service manager. Nice guy to talk to, very helpful when I needed work done.
 
Ah shucks!

If JB Weld is good enough to glue a broken flower pot.
It should be good enough to glue a critical part in a classic shotgun! :D

rc
 
I'll see how it goes, if it doesn't suffice, I can just order one.
 
It may suffice today, tomorrow, next week, or next month.

But will it suffice when you Really Need it Too Suffice when the wolf comes calling at your door??
Or you are 100 miles from home on a hunting trip?

Only the JB Weld gods know!

rc
 
Lol, that's where old Mossberg 500A and Winchester Model 12 come into play ;)
 
But would you use JB Weld to try to repair a boken Model 12? :what:

I thought not! ;)

Same differance.

rc
 
No not on the M12, from what I've read, it's much more complex in parts than the M37, haha. I'm not really sure about these old pump guns. Can they handle heavy 12 ga loads designed for modern pumps in 2 3/4''?

I haven't taken apart my M12 yet cause I needed to get the long screw driver first. But after taking down the Ithaca, I really appreciate how simple yet robust the design is, and how nicely the handfitted parts go together. Come to think of it, the Ithaca 37 can still function even with a broken shell carrier, now that is pretty cool. If the carrier on the 870 snapped off then you wouldn't be able to cycle rounds through. I wonder if JMB had planned for this type of failure in designing a fork style carrier that has two pivot pins so they can function independently. Furthermore, the old pumps make my Mossberg look like a pig, but the Mossberg is just as robust and reliable and more versatile. The older pumps win in the balance department though.

Addendum: JB weld failed on the carrier. But it succeeded on the 2 wrist cracks. No more springy wood bits where the trigger guard meets the stock. Also tightened the stock down firmly so hopefully no more cracks.
 
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The 37 can handle any 2-3/4" shell, except steel shot will put a ring in the barrel near the choke and I wouldn't use it. Take you JB Weld and throw it out. False advertising...no wiskey or weld in it. I hate that stuff because some people think it is some kind of miracle product that will work when a propper repair is warranted. Just get the damn part.
 
Well I talked to a Ithaca gunsmith and he said that if the gun functions just leave it.
 
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Well it doesn't pose a safety issue, which is most important to me. But if the timing of the action was thrown off due to the carrier being broken, then he'd recommend replacing it.

He also told me that when tightening the magazine nut against the barrel lug, back it off 2-3 turns because when the metal contracts and expands as it heats and cools, if the magazine nut is too tight against the lug, you can get a bulge there on the barrel.

And he also said stock cracks are due to loose stock bolts or maltreatment. So he said to check the stock bolt every year and tighten it up.
 
The carrier is also the ejector, when the bolt moves backward pulling the fired shell from the chamber, the edge/rim of the shell hits a notch cut into each carrier arm. That action flips the fired shell downward and out.

You may have ejection issues by not replacing the carrier. Me, a new carrier would be on the way right now. Please don't ham & egg a fine shotgun, repair it and make it right.
 
He also told me that when tightening the magazine nut against the barrel lug, back it off 2-3 turns because when the metal contracts and expands as it heats and cools,

Backing the magazine nut off 2 - 3 turns will not put any pressure against the barrel lug, thus freeing the barrel to twist and come loose. 2 or 3 turns is all it takes to remove the barrel. With the advice you're getting from your gunsmith, seems it is time to go to a different shop.
 
Maybe I quoted him wrong, maybe 1 turn? Or 2 half turns?
 
If I want to remove the broken slide pin, how do you do it? I've read to depress the pin and bang the other side of the receiver until the broken part dislodges.

Also, how do you install a new one?
 
In the slide there is a small pin called a check pin. this pin holds the slide pin into place, preventing it from falling out as it is spring loaded. It is a very small pin about 1/16 dia and has to be driven out with the slide out of the gun and on the bench.

Note part no. slide pin 370015
slide pin check 370017
 
Ok, but how do you get the bolt slide out of the gun in the first place when it won't disengage the action bar to let you slide it out the back?
 
The gunsmith probably meant 1 or 2 clicks as in detents.

When is disassembling the bolt and carrier from the action rod, they must be pulled apart. Move the pin over hold the bolt and slide the action handle forward and that should seperate the two parts.
 
The slide pin is broken so I need to dislodge the broken part so the action bar is released.
 
From what you have said I'm under the impression that the slide pin is broken in the center. At the center of the slide, where the pin is turned down so the pin diameter doesn't interfer with shell feeding.
Is this true?
 
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