RugerBob
Member
Just wanted to show some lead I came across. Thats my Blackhawk w/7 1/2" barrel.
Making my own bullets, question regarding metal?
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Just wanted to show some lead I came across. Thats my Blackhawk w/7 1/2" barrel.
RugerBob
Member
sorry hit wrong picture.
Perk
Member
Well, shucks, those ingots aren't even the size of a maple lea... oh. 
Macmac
Member
Perk's lead appears to me like someone needed a work bench and used a brownie pan to cast one.
I collected lead a while and used a similar pan to redender the stuff to be cleaner and easier to move and store.
I had odd bits of flashing, boat ballast, water pipe and connectiond for water pipe. One hunk of lead had a brass cap about 6 inch diameter wedged in to tight to turn.
There was no reasonable way to stack the this mess, so into a pot it went, and I poured plates about 1/2 as thick as that one shown.
Also added in were bullets other people had given me and I had no gun for, plus lead I get back from shooting it in the first place.
A .600 cal and a .735 cal might not be as big as some, but are some what bigger than most I'ld say.
Perk that wind musta' be blowin some wicket fierce to blow that shed into the tree so hard, that tree cum down!
Pancho, that bit with the 22's somehow seems safer that one drop of water and was a hoot to read.
I did see in my minds eye and today it seems real. I am saying this as i can't really be sure I saw that drop of water fall from the inside of a tin roof in a barn, but I am sure glad, that I was out of range!
That event was very impressive to my alledged mind. It made a nasty mess of things too, but that got cleaned up, and the lead went back into the pot.
You can bank on I look up, before I fire a pot..
I collected lead a while and used a similar pan to redender the stuff to be cleaner and easier to move and store.
I had odd bits of flashing, boat ballast, water pipe and connectiond for water pipe. One hunk of lead had a brass cap about 6 inch diameter wedged in to tight to turn.
There was no reasonable way to stack the this mess, so into a pot it went, and I poured plates about 1/2 as thick as that one shown.
Also added in were bullets other people had given me and I had no gun for, plus lead I get back from shooting it in the first place.
A .600 cal and a .735 cal might not be as big as some, but are some what bigger than most I'ld say.
Perk that wind musta' be blowin some wicket fierce to blow that shed into the tree so hard, that tree cum down!
Pancho, that bit with the 22's somehow seems safer that one drop of water and was a hoot to read.
I did see in my minds eye and today it seems real. I am saying this as i can't really be sure I saw that drop of water fall from the inside of a tin roof in a barn, but I am sure glad, that I was out of range!
That event was very impressive to my alledged mind. It made a nasty mess of things too, but that got cleaned up, and the lead went back into the pot.
You can bank on I look up, before I fire a pot..
Perk
Member
Macmac – Part of the problem with the winds, we get up here, is that the Santa Ana’s can come blowing out of the east with sustained force. And, they may keep at it for a few days. This is not good for roofing, in general.
Real problem came in, a few decades ago. Seems some wit decided that importing eucalyptus trees, from Australia, would result in a material, which would be useful in the construction of railroad ties. Stuff grows iron-hard in Australia. In California, not so much. The things grow too fast, out here; making them too brittle to hold up to a harsh blow - especially, one that lasts for a couple of days.
Can make for some interesting riding, on some of our winding roads, right after a windy spell.
So, what kind of candles does one put atop a lead cake, anyway?
Real problem came in, a few decades ago. Seems some wit decided that importing eucalyptus trees, from Australia, would result in a material, which would be useful in the construction of railroad ties. Stuff grows iron-hard in Australia. In California, not so much. The things grow too fast, out here; making them too brittle to hold up to a harsh blow - especially, one that lasts for a couple of days.
Can make for some interesting riding, on some of our winding roads, right after a windy spell.
So, what kind of candles does one put atop a lead cake, anyway?
scrat
Member
Perk what part of california you from anyhow
Perk
Member
It’s a little place, called Ramona. We’re just northeast of the city of San Diego, in the unincorporated area of San Diego county. The town is actually, mostly, a valley, in the mountains, about 1,400 feet up (1,391 feet, at the airport – which can be important to know).
Looks, absolutely nothing, like the rest of San Diego. Mindset differs, somewhat, too – as one might imagine.
Am given to understand, you’re not that far away from here.
Looks, absolutely nothing, like the rest of San Diego. Mindset differs, somewhat, too – as one might imagine.
Am given to understand, you’re not that far away from here.
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scrat
Member
Shoot a couple of hour in a car. But still not bad. We need to find more BP shooters. it sure would be nice to have a meet. Meet up at a range and take it over with black powder shooting.
Hey Perk: I forget the man's name but he imported the eucalyptus trees so he could become a lumber baron by selling them to the rail road. Eucalyptus trees grow very fast but the Aussies purposely sold him the wrong type of tree so he wouldn't cut into there export market. Screwed him to the wall. And us along with him. I was from the SF Bay Area and it's all over the Berkeley hills and the bark, they shed their bark, and leaves are poisonous to local plants and animals. So nothing grows under the eucalyptus trees.
Currently there is a big push to get rid of them all and return the land to native plants and trees. But they are everywhere in the hills. Miles and miles of them.
Currently there is a big push to get rid of them all and return the land to native plants and trees. But they are everywhere in the hills. Miles and miles of them.
theotherwaldo
Member
Something I haven't heard around here is how to sort scavenged lead.
For instance, I noticed someone had some lead water pipe. The pipe itself is pure lead, but the wiped joint (the big bulge) is a good bit harder. I'd cut that joint out and mix it in with the smokeless stuff.
Also, bullets from the backstop can be used with muzzle loaders if you sort them properly. Most jacketed bullets are pure swaged lead under the jackets.
Keep that in mind and you can keep right on feeding your old muzzle-loader.
For instance, I noticed someone had some lead water pipe. The pipe itself is pure lead, but the wiped joint (the big bulge) is a good bit harder. I'd cut that joint out and mix it in with the smokeless stuff.
Also, bullets from the backstop can be used with muzzle loaders if you sort them properly. Most jacketed bullets are pure swaged lead under the jackets.
Keep that in mind and you can keep right on feeding your old muzzle-loader.
Perk
Member
Scrat – Even less time, by motorcycle. Potentially, one of the reasons for having gotten that shoulder stock. (BP take-down.)
Take over the range, eh? Well, gee, that wouldn’t be very nice to the other fellers, at all… Count me in.
Misfire99 – The Blunder from Down Under. Blue Gums are always thirsty and shed everything, but lead. And, the oils must be more poisonous than lead. (Trying to keep with the thread, here, guys,) Can’t believe that so much money was invested in importing tiny wasps to kill the mite, which was killing the trees, a few years back.
Don’t know what kind of lead one would use, to shoot the durned things with. Aw, shucks. Going to get in Dutch, again, aren't I? :banghead:
Take over the range, eh? Well, gee, that wouldn’t be very nice to the other fellers, at all… Count me in.
Misfire99 – The Blunder from Down Under. Blue Gums are always thirsty and shed everything, but lead. And, the oils must be more poisonous than lead. (Trying to keep with the thread, here, guys,) Can’t believe that so much money was invested in importing tiny wasps to kill the mite, which was killing the trees, a few years back.
Don’t know what kind of lead one would use, to shoot the durned things with. Aw, shucks. Going to get in Dutch, again, aren't I? :banghead:
Hey fellas.
I got me lead-balls today, .454 and some caps. Will be shooting soon.
Btw, I was checking out some BP revolver videos on Youtube and found this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSOo-zY0_lc&feature=related
Uh, when my 1858 is half-cocked the drum gets locked in place, it will not move. The guy in the video is able to rotate his cylinder. Is that something which was introduced in the reproductions or is something wrong with my antique? In order to revolve my cylinder I have to slightly pull back the hammer to let the cylinder rotate, half cocked moves the cylinder between two nipples (safety-notch), fully cocked locks it right on a nipple.
I got me lead-balls today, .454 and some caps. Will be shooting soon.
Btw, I was checking out some BP revolver videos on Youtube and found this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSOo-zY0_lc&feature=related
Uh, when my 1858 is half-cocked the drum gets locked in place, it will not move. The guy in the video is able to rotate his cylinder. Is that something which was introduced in the reproductions or is something wrong with my antique? In order to revolve my cylinder I have to slightly pull back the hammer to let the cylinder rotate, half cocked moves the cylinder between two nipples (safety-notch), fully cocked locks it right on a nipple.
razorback1010
Member
At half-cock, your cylinder should be able to rotate. As your Remmie seems an original and subsequently isn't exactly new, you probably have a worn cylinder bolt. how do you load it ?
Funderb
Member
just don't breathe the fumes when you cast.
fastest way to lead-poisoning-ville.
seriously, you can eat a lead ball and crap it out and be better off than breathing the fumes of molten lead directly.
fastest way to lead-poisoning-ville.
seriously, you can eat a lead ball and crap it out and be better off than breathing the fumes of molten lead directly.
dwave
Member
I picked this up on the first page and it is bad advice. If you are going to load multiple chambers, CAP THEM ALL! You will have a substantial risk of a chainfire with loaded chambers and no caps on as there is nothing to block the flame of another cap going off.
razorback1010
Member
I see, it's not bothering you 'cause you're not using the loading lever. Is it your wish to get a perfectly working Remmie with some modern-made replacement parts or to keep a 100 % original with a little problem but that shoots anyway ?
Oh sorry, I misunderstood you. Yes I use the lever, I thought you meant how I load the cylinder into the gun.
Well, I'm not afraid of using new parts. I'll keep the old parts.. To be honest I'd rather wear down new parts than the old ones where its possible.
Regarding the cylinder not spinning freely at half-cock.. could it be that the spring is just too hard? If I remove the cylinder I can with my finger press the cylinder bolt down, not too much power is required.
Took it apart (thanks to the great guide provided by the forums)
To me everything looks to be in pretty good condition, but I'll let you experts be the judge of that.
Hey, maybe I should start a new thread? Perhaps Im going OT too much? What do you mods say? I dont want to litter the forum.
To me everything looks to be in pretty good condition, but I'll let you experts be the judge of that.
Hey, maybe I should start a new thread? Perhaps Im going OT too much? What do you mods say? I dont want to litter the forum.
Macmac
Member
Damn, is that the real thing? Sure looks like it.
I have been reading, but so far said nothing. I wanted to see where this might go. You can bet there is a few other guys watching too.
I have a few ideas too. The first one is there is nothing wrong, except the first click you can hear is the bolt coming off the cam at the hammer, and you have gone past 1/2 cock, and just can't hear it.
So install the hammer alone, no hand, just the hammer and the screw for it.
Next install the main spring. Set the spring in place with most of the screw not yet turned in, and use the screw to pull the spring in.
Install the bolt, install the trigger. Use the same screws as they were as original if you can. If you don't know look for wear marks and note which screw is which screw there after. Use a black marker if you can't ID these screws anyother way. If some old timer ever worked on these he may have made a Key, (marks to ID which one went where) Look for them.
Next install the dual spring, and snugg the screw.
Looking with a bright light cock the hammer oh about 1,000 times untill you can see the hammer cam, and the bolt work with one another.
Listen for the click in to 1/2 cock, as you watch the trigger drop into the first notch on the hammer. You might not hear it. listem more as you cock the hammer more. Click, did you see that the bolt slipped off the hammer cam and heard that instead?
Add a little masking tape to the side of the hammer. In pencil with the hammer down, follow the line of the frame.
next set the hammer to half cock, making sure the trigger is at the half cock notch, and mark the tape again, making a similar line in a different place.
Cock the hammer more, CLICK hold the hammer there, and make sure you saw the bolt slip off the hammer cam. Do that 10 times and then mark the tape, with the hammer exactly where it is when the bolt slips off the hammer cam.
Next and last set the hammer to full cock and mark that in pencil as before.
Last post a pic like that..
If this is a real original, don't play guessing games. Do Not file, sand, and shape stuff, not yet anyway. I am none to sure euro clone parts will work and I am pretty sure no screws will either!
Don't get in a hurry, don't get frustrated.
I would like better shots of that hammer cam, to see th top. That cam should have a square shoulder even though the cam is round.
The bolt needs to ride up on that cam with out slipping off, to a certain point. That point should be after 1/2 cock.
Do those Snap On screw drivers indicate you are or were a car tech?
If I knew that, it might help, and you really should invest in the proper screw drivers made for guns for this gun.. The blades on those drivers are about as much like a gun screw driver as a allen is torx...
I have been reading, but so far said nothing. I wanted to see where this might go. You can bet there is a few other guys watching too.
I have a few ideas too. The first one is there is nothing wrong, except the first click you can hear is the bolt coming off the cam at the hammer, and you have gone past 1/2 cock, and just can't hear it.
So install the hammer alone, no hand, just the hammer and the screw for it.
Next install the main spring. Set the spring in place with most of the screw not yet turned in, and use the screw to pull the spring in.
Install the bolt, install the trigger. Use the same screws as they were as original if you can. If you don't know look for wear marks and note which screw is which screw there after. Use a black marker if you can't ID these screws anyother way. If some old timer ever worked on these he may have made a Key, (marks to ID which one went where) Look for them.
Next install the dual spring, and snugg the screw.
Looking with a bright light cock the hammer oh about 1,000 times untill you can see the hammer cam, and the bolt work with one another.
Listen for the click in to 1/2 cock, as you watch the trigger drop into the first notch on the hammer. You might not hear it. listem more as you cock the hammer more. Click, did you see that the bolt slipped off the hammer cam and heard that instead?
Add a little masking tape to the side of the hammer. In pencil with the hammer down, follow the line of the frame.
next set the hammer to half cock, making sure the trigger is at the half cock notch, and mark the tape again, making a similar line in a different place.
Cock the hammer more, CLICK hold the hammer there, and make sure you saw the bolt slip off the hammer cam. Do that 10 times and then mark the tape, with the hammer exactly where it is when the bolt slips off the hammer cam.
Next and last set the hammer to full cock and mark that in pencil as before.
Last post a pic like that..
If this is a real original, don't play guessing games. Do Not file, sand, and shape stuff, not yet anyway. I am none to sure euro clone parts will work and I am pretty sure no screws will either!
Don't get in a hurry, don't get frustrated.
I would like better shots of that hammer cam, to see th top. That cam should have a square shoulder even though the cam is round.
The bolt needs to ride up on that cam with out slipping off, to a certain point. That point should be after 1/2 cock.
Do those Snap On screw drivers indicate you are or were a car tech?
If I knew that, it might help, and you really should invest in the proper screw drivers made for guns for this gun.. The blades on those drivers are about as much like a gun screw driver as a allen is torx...
theotherwaldo
Member
My suggestion is that you carefully clean the bolt and the cam that's on the side of the hammer, the cavity that the bolt rides in, and the interior of the receiver before you do anything else. There's enough friction there to mess up the mechanism's timing. Hoppe's #9 and a t-shirt, plus a few popsicle sticks should do the trick.
Then you should be able to tell what's going on.
My bet, though, is that the camming surface of the bolt is so worn that it slides off of the hammer's cam too early. That may be fixed by bending that finger of the bolt toward the hammer's cam.
That's what I had to do about twenty-five years ago with a similar gun, and it worked properly right up until Dad sold it.
Good luck!
Then you should be able to tell what's going on.
My bet, though, is that the camming surface of the bolt is so worn that it slides off of the hammer's cam too early. That may be fixed by bending that finger of the bolt toward the hammer's cam.
That's what I had to do about twenty-five years ago with a similar gun, and it worked properly right up until Dad sold it.
Good luck!
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