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Mark III 22/45 Trigger Reset issue

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MaterDei

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Joined
Sep 23, 2003
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3,528
Location
Central Texas
Hi,

I have a Mark III 22/45 that was acting up at the range today and is still acting up after a thorough cleaning.

The problem is consistent with all of my mags and even without a mag inserted (more on that later).

I have made no modifications to the pistol and have never detail stripped it. Removing the barrel from the frame for a thorough cleaning is as far as I have gone. It only has about 500 rounds through it so it is basically in like new condition. Now, on to the details.

With an empty magazine inserted the pistol cocks normally. I either release the bolt with the bolt release or hold down the bolt release while cocking it and release the bolt from its most rearward position. I am not easing the bolt into battery.

With the mag still in the gun, of course, the first time I pull the trigger it moves all the way to the rear until it physically can't move back any further. During the course of the pull there is no resistance whatsoever. I release the trigger and on the second pull it performs as it should, engages the sear and drops the hammer, click. The problem is not intermittent, it behaves the same way every time I recock the pistol.

I do not believe this is a mag disconnect issue and here is why. With no mag in the gun on the first pull of the trigger it does the exact same thing. Then, on the second pull, the trigger only moves partially to the rear and stops. The mag disconnect is doing its job on the second pull.

At the range I was having the same problem but only on the first round of the magazine. Something about the more violent nature of the recoil seems to overcome the issue and the rest of the mag shoots fine.

So any thoughts to what the problem might be? I offer a great prize to whomever helps me the most. I will trade my like new Mark III with extra safety features for one of your old obsolete and clearly unsafe Mark I or II pistols. Even swap! Yes, I am that nice of a guy.
 
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I posted the same thing there already. :) I am MaterDei there too. I also posted at ruger forums. My question is quite specific so I am casting a wide net.
 
Call Ruger. Could be several issues, but it's not supposed to happen and Ruger will fix it.

Jeff
 
Will Ruger attempt to troubleshoot it over the phone with me, or will they just tell me to ship it to them? I suspect the later but if the former then I'm all in for a call.

I trust that there are enough experts here that I will get some good ideas, especially given the prize I have offered!
 
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Push the trigger forward after cocking the gun and see if it resets....if it does and the gun works correctly, pull the barrel off and see if the trigger has a pre-travel set screw. If it does, it needs to be turned in just a bit.

Ain't no need to swap a III for a II or I. Just take out the disconnect and put in a MKII hammer bushing....it takes all of 5 minutes.
 
It needs to go further forward if it isn't resetting...pull the barrel and look for a set screw in the trigger....if you want, you can PM me a number and I will text pics of what I am talking about.
 
First, thanks to all for the help.

Colt, the range of motion forward and back is identical on the first pull and the 2nd one which works. As I am releasing the trigger from the first pull I can hear it reset well before it completes moving forward.

rcmodel, I don't exactly know where the disconnector is but logically what you say makes sense. I would prefer not to, but I may need to do a detail strip and look for burs. Seems to me like a bur would be something from the factory but this gun functioned fine until yesterday. I don't know how a bur would develop in so few rounds. I always clean my guns every time I shoot them. Strange.
 
The disconnector on these guns in general can bind against the frame and cause it to stick. I've had to bend a few to keep them from binding. There is also a spring loaded plunger that pushes up on the disconnector, this can stick too.

Go here for a good pictorial guide on breaking this gun down. http://guntalk-online.com/service.html

This is run by a gunsmith and put together to help ones who want to help them selves.
 
I wanted to give you all an update and thank you all for your helpful advice. The gun is functioning fine now.

I detail stripped the frame. I didn't find any problems at all that shouted to me "there's your problem". I did a good cleaning and did a little bit of polishing on the disconnector and the trigger plunger. While I was at it, although I don't think it contributed to the problem, I replaced all the mag disconnect crud with a Volquartsen Mark II bushing.

I stretched the trigger plunger spring just a tad as well. I didn't measure my trigger pull weight before the work but it is currently at 4 lbs 4 oz which is just fine by me.

Now I just need to do something about that darn stiff bolt release. The fun never stops. :)
 
Don't use the bolt stop to drop the bolt. If you do it long enough, your bolt won't lock back after the last round. The stop is thin sheet metal and the corner will round off causing the lock back fail. Sling shot the bolt home.

A new VQ sear and a little polishing will get your trigger to 2 lbs or so. I have worked on mine enough to get them down to 1.75 lbs....I put set screws in the factory triggers to adjust out the pre and post travel.
 
Don't use the bolt stop to drop the bolt. If you do it long enough, your bolt won't lock back after the last round. The stop is thin sheet metal and the corner will round off causing the lock back fail. Sling shot the bolt home.

Thanks for the info, ColtPythonElite, I wasn't aware of this. The more I learn about this gun the more I dislike it.

I have seen an aftermarket extended bolt release that allows you to slingshot the bolt. Probably not worth $35 though.

Here is a link to the aftermarket part if anybody is interested.
 
Glad to see you got it working right again. Hopefully the MKII bushing fit the hammer tight so you eliminated the extra rotating point, which adds creep to the trigger. They sure make the assembly a lot easier.

I normally have to clean my MKIII about every 2000 rounds. When the LCI starts sticking it's time to clean. I've changed springs in my gun and have 1 lb 9 oz trigger. It's been like this for going on 8 yrs now and never had a problem. Every one that shoots it say' I just touched it and it went off. I will not let any one shoot it without dry firing first so they have an idea as to how light it is. They learn real quick not to touch the trigger unless your ready to fire. Which is the way it should be with any gun.
 
Take the spring and plunger out of the slide stop and it will work by gravity just like the MKI/II does. It won't run upside down though. ;). Then you can slingshot the bolt.
 
Thanks for the tip, 1kPerDay. I don't normally shoot this gun upside down and when I do I hold down (or up if it is upside down) the bolt stop, of course. ;)
 
No prob. My MKIII 22/45 was horrible stock. Worst trigger ever. Volquartsen sear and trigger, Clark bushing, remove the LCI and the slide stop plunger and spring, and (optional) get a 1911 grip modification, and it's now my favorite 22. 2 lb trigger, and I train every new shooter on it. Fantastically reliable even when I went 10K rounds without cleaning it.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=750767

Firing pin return spring broke, ruger sent me another cheap. thinking about the Volq extractor and firing pin now, but it's still running fine and it runs on anything, unlike my 1911 conversions.
 
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