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Melted Recoil Pad/Marred wood finish help

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Nimick, Oct 16, 2020.

  1. BigBlue 94

    BigBlue 94 Member

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    Alligator!? Lol whats that?
     
  2. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Amalgamator, i.e. something that amalgamates.

    Amalgamate - to combine, unite, merge, or coalesce: The three schools decided to amalgamate.
     
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  3. BigBlue 94

    BigBlue 94 Member

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    Ah i dont think ive ever seen that spelled out!
     
  4. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    Lacquer amalgamator works on damaged finishes and will generally eventually dry to the point that only a touch-up is needed. A typical use for laquer amalgamator is where vinyl mat, with a heavy vase on top, displaced the surface finish on a laquer finished table. The vinyl will destroy the finish. One would attempt the repair without having to refinish the entire table top by amalgamating the existing finish.

    (edited in:)

    FWIW, vinyl, and many rubbers and other plastics, "gas off" and will destroy lacquer. To the point that.... lacquer finished guitars on a stand is suicide for a finish. Even in a case, I've had lacquer necks that I've finished, were years old and fully "shrunk in", pick up the texture of the plush lining, because the "plush" was gassing off. Its a real problem that luthiers (guitar smiths) even amateur ones (me) see.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2020
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  5. BigBlue 94

    BigBlue 94 Member

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    So im assuming it is a close formula to lacquer and melts it back to a smooth finish? Like how you dont have to remove lacquer sanding dust before the next coat?

    We dont sell as much lacquer as we did 20 years ago before i actually worked here. So Ive never seen it. Does it work on catalyzed lacquer or just conventional nitrocellulose base?

    Knowing what i know about lacquer and shellac, i would never coat a gunstock with either.

    We recently ordered a gallon of Old Masters brand Master's Armor waterbase urethane. I did a two coat sample and im really impressed with it. They even make an optional hardener for it. The flat finish is not dead flat, more like a hand rubbed oil finish. Im considering getting some of my own for some stocks.
     
  6. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    Look a Mohawk finishes
    Go see articles by Frank Ford at frets.com

    Its all there regarding lacquer, varnish, oils, shellac.
     
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  7. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Would your forum name have anything to do with that hobby? I have a 1959 ES355 TDSV Cherry with a factory Bigsby and all gold hardware.
     
  8. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    Nope. Strictly Teles, although I prefer the Thinline. These days I just build what suits me, including amps and effects. Project355 is a reference to 9mm.
     
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  9. DT Guy

    DT Guy Member

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    Lacquer, especially nitrocellulose lacquer, is a 'hot' finish; each coat melts the previous coat and completely combines with it. This is the reason you can sand a nitro-finished piece and not get witness lines.

    You can test the finish with lacquer thinner in a hidden spot; if it solvents the finish, it's lacquer. It won't touch the poly's.

    Touching up with lacquer is pretty easy because of it's 'hot' properties; poly's are much more difficult to spot-repair.

    Larry
     
  10. Dudedog
    • Contributing Member

    Dudedog Contributing Member

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    Goo Gone would be what I would try first.
     
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