Model 10 - Ejector Rod runout

[film495]

I got out my Model 10 to go over it and see about getting it to the range. I found a couple thngs going over it that maybe I can fix myself, but maybe not. a couple cylinders ting with a Brownells range rod. It goes in, but definitely ticks on the face of the cylinder as it does. I also just visually looked at the runout on the extractor rod, and it is enough to see visually, and the bend seem to trace back to the threaded junction. I marked the side of the rod that it bent toward, just to observe it a bit more and when that mark us up working the action, so the rod is bent toward the barrel in this position, that cylinder the timing in double action, is good, it locks, but it is close, every other cylinder has an obvious click in single and double action when the stop pops into the notch, but that one cylinder it is so close or at the same time as the trigger letting go, which also makes a noise, you can't hear the stop pop up at all. I can't. In single action it is fine, and I don't notice anything about the timing that gives me pause.

How do you straighten the rod without having it crack and break at the threaded joint? The cylinders that tings and the one that I notice a question about the timing - are the ones aligned with the barrel at the rotation where the middle of the rod is bent down. I'm hoping the rod runout is the root cause and I don't know if it is worth trying to figurre out how to straighen that rod or get a new one, but - wouldn't a new one require filing and timing the whole thing, which is something I certainly don't know how to do.

Maybe this is too complex, and I should just hand it off to a pro at a local shop, but if I can fix that rod easy I'd rather give it a shot.

 

[.38 Special]

You really need a tool to get it right. https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/handgun-tools/extractor-rod--yoke-alignment-tool/

I personally farm such projects out to a gunsmith - the one and only time I tried to straighten one myself (hammer, vise, flat surface) did not go at all well.

There are folks who can do it with a hammer and leather pads. I'm apparently not one of them, but maybe you are. The method is detailed in the Kunhausen S&W manual.

A new rod is also a fine plan, if you can find the exact model. It should be a simple installation (bearing in mind that some rods are left hand thread and some are right, and old ones can be awfully tight - and if you're not completely sure of thread direction, you might not know whether it's just really tight or if you're turning it the wrong way, which is exciting) with no retiming needed.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

^^^ +1

 

[film495]

I messed with it. I don't think I broke anything, but getting the rod in a vice, and trying to tap it/whack a bit, tried several times and the installed again, and each time I don't think I bent it a MM. Good enough for me, gave it a shot, think I'm done spending time on it and we'll see what a local shops gunsmith can do. Probably is fine as is, but it is old, guess I'll have it tuned up.

Maybe I'll look for a replacement part, but if yout replace the ejector rod, doesn't that star and wrachets need to be timed?

 

[BBBBill]

if yout replace the ejector rod, doesn't that star and wrachets need to be timed?

No. The ejector rod has nothing to do with timing and little to do with cylinder/barrel alignment. The ratchet pads may need to be swaged to move a little metal over and increase the rotation imparted by the hand. There's a neat tool for that, although it is no longer made. The job can still be done without the tool with careful setup. Key is identifying the offending ratchet pads.

 

[film495]

dropped off at a local shop to have their gunsmith look at it. still waiting to hear back about it. they said it would be a few weeks. hope they didn't lose it.

 

[film495]

got back from gunsmith. he put a new hand in it. timing seems a bit better and he didn't jump on anything else, cylinder alignment etc. said he test fired it and is accurate, so - I figure I'm good. I'll go over it again myself and run it through a revolver checklist of tests/checks again, and then off to the range. oh, that's right - I was going to try a new set of grips I'll need to fit to it as well.