I use synthetic 2 stroke motor oil to lube all my bullet molds along with a Q-tip. When casting my molds run in the +/- 385* range when up to temp. I oil the pivot point/under the sprue plate between the mold/sprue plate where the pivot screw is. I also oil the alignment pins and alignment holes using the 2 stroke oil on a Q-tip. It doesn't hut to put a little on the pivot points of the handles while you're at it. I oil my molds several times during a casting session.
To clean lead off of a aluminum mold get it hot/up to temp then use a pencil and copper chore boy to remove any lead from the face of the mold blocks. Use the copper chore boy or steel wool to clean the steel sprue plate.
Keep an eye on your bullets when casting, if you're water dropping them use a towel angled in a bucket & drop them on that towel letting them roll into the bucket of water. You will be able to see every cast/pour/bullet this way seeing if there's any issues/flashing on your bullets. The lee 2 cavity molds are known for their sprue plate hold down screws coming loose/walking during casting sessions. The only real way to stop this is by installing a set screw/hold down screw. You need to keep checking the torque on the Phillip's headed hold down screw during your casting session, resetting the pressure on the sprue plate. This keep you from getting flashing on the bottoms of your bullets or the sprue stem sticking up after sheering on the bottom of the bullet.
It also doesn't hurt to hold the mold up and turning it sideways several times during a casting session looking to make sure the mold is fully closing. Along with looking/inspecting both faces of the mold halves to make sure there isn't any lead build-up/splatter on them.
Believe me you will have plenty of time to look/inspect/clean your lee 2-cavity mold during a casting session. Those lee 2-cavity molds tend to get too hot real fast giving the caster time to maintain the mold while letting it cool down.
To clean lead off of a aluminum mold get it hot/up to temp then use a pencil and copper chore boy to remove any lead from the face of the mold blocks. Use the copper chore boy or steel wool to clean the steel sprue plate.
Keep an eye on your bullets when casting, if you're water dropping them use a towel angled in a bucket & drop them on that towel letting them roll into the bucket of water. You will be able to see every cast/pour/bullet this way seeing if there's any issues/flashing on your bullets. The lee 2 cavity molds are known for their sprue plate hold down screws coming loose/walking during casting sessions. The only real way to stop this is by installing a set screw/hold down screw. You need to keep checking the torque on the Phillip's headed hold down screw during your casting session, resetting the pressure on the sprue plate. This keep you from getting flashing on the bottoms of your bullets or the sprue stem sticking up after sheering on the bottom of the bullet.
It also doesn't hurt to hold the mold up and turning it sideways several times during a casting session looking to make sure the mold is fully closing. Along with looking/inspecting both faces of the mold halves to make sure there isn't any lead build-up/splatter on them.
Believe me you will have plenty of time to look/inspect/clean your lee 2-cavity mold during a casting session. Those lee 2-cavity molds tend to get too hot real fast giving the caster time to maintain the mold while letting it cool down.
