Problem with Lee mold

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SteelyNirvana

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I bought a Lee mold the other day, model # TL 358-158-SWC, its a double cavity mold. Casting some this morning, I noticed the cavity furthest away from the handles was casting out of round bullets. Looking closer at it, the sprue plate looks bent, ever-so-slightly up wards. I taped it a few times with a scrap piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe (Which I'm using to open the sprue plate) and that helped a cast or two but it went back to being bent up wards and leaving some flashing on the bullet.

What is causing this?, has anyone else experienced this problem?, could it be that I'm using a metal pipe to open the sprue (and its causing the sprue to bend) and not a plastic mallet like Lee recommends? I wasn't planing on buying a Lee sizer but with these out of round ones, it looks like I'm going to have to OR can I just get by with trimming of the flashing with a knife?

Thanks
 
you beat on it with apiece of metal and then wonder why its bent use a piece of wood old broom handle works
 
Sounds like to me you need to send that one back. I don't use any type of tool to open the sprue plate. I wear welding gloves and open it then peel the boolits out and start the process all over.

The Dove
 
I've used a broken hammer handle now for 10+ years, will have to replace it one of these days, or just use it as a shorter handle.

I don't believe I'd ever use a metal pipe or hammer on an alu. mold.
 
Sounds like to me you need to send that one back.

If I do decide to contact Lee and try to get and exchange how is there customer service? (I'm guessing I shouldn't mention I was opening it with an old piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe :eek: ) So Can the out of round ones be sized and will the shoot fine ? or should I discard them (This is my first time casting and my first time using lead bullets, I've only reloaded jacketed up until now)


I don't use any type of tool to open the sprue plate. I wear welding gloves and open it then peel the boolits out and start the process all over.

You must be a really strong dude, I'm no weakling but I tried that just a min ago and there is no way. That sprue plate is tight once the lead is poured. Closing and opening can be done by hand though as long as its empty.
 
No offense, friend, we all are rookies at something.

Even if the sprue plat is missing or bent 135 degrees backward, that won't make 'out of round' bullets.

If your bullets are truly out of round, then the two halves are not closing together tightly enough. There may be debris on the closing surfaces, or debris in the pin hole. Or you just aren't holding it tight enough. Your hands are the only thing holding the hot mold shut, so don't underestimate the need to put power into it.

Proper mold and lead temperatures are also imperative to getting consistently round bullets. Molten lead in the 600+ F degree range, mold in the upper 500's.

If the sprue plate isn't flat against the top of the mold, you either damaged it by hitting it with a steel pipe, or a small amount of molten lead creeped under the sprue plate near the pivot and hardened in there.

Inspect it carefully and clean it up. Don't use a steel pick to clean it, you'll scratch the aluminum. I don't think I would send a mold back to the manufacturer yet. Learn more about the care and feeding of it. Get a book on casting lead, like the Lyman book.
 
If I do decide to contact Lee and try to get and exchange how is there customer service? (I'm guessing I shouldn't mention I was opening it with an old piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe ) So Can the out of round ones be sized and will the shoot fine or should I discard them (This is my first time casting and my first time using lead bullets, I've only reloaded jacketed up until now)

You must be a really strong dude, I'm no weakling but I tried that just a min ago and there is no way. That sprue plate is tight once the lead is poured. Closing and opening can be done by hand though as long as its empty.
You can size the "oval" bullets. I use the Lee push through sizer. Low cost and does a good job.

If your mold is up to temperature and is casting good bullets, you should be able to open the sprue cutter with a gloved hand. The light weight Lee molds won't take too much pounding and "torquing" on the sprue handle. If the sprue cutter is hard to open after you've cast a few, you're waiting too long. I watch the lead on top of the sprue cutter and when it "sucks in" and changes colors, I cut the sprue.

When I start out with a cold mold, I put it on a cheap, single coil hotplate and get the mold up to temperature. I'd rather error on the "too hot" side and have to wait for the mold to cool than cast a bunch of wrinkled, too cold bullets trying to get the mold up to temp. Eventually, you get the setting on the hot plate dialed in so you can operate the sprue cutter by hand right off the bat.

A good resource for cast bullets:http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=8

Cloudpeak
 
If I do decide to contact Lee and try to get and exchange how is there customer service? (I'm guessing I shouldn't mention I was opening it with an old piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe ) So Can the out of round ones be sized and will the shoot fine ? or should I discard them (This is my first time casting and my first time using lead bullets, I've only reloaded jacketed up until now)

Lee customer service is very good. If the mold is new, or less than two years old, they will fix it or replace it at no charge. If you've had it a long time, and it looks beat up, they may charge you as much as $13 to replace it.

You should be able to get good results by sizing them, and it will push the flash off them too.
 
If the sprue cutter is hard to open after you've cast a few, you're waiting too long. I watch the lead on top of the sprue cutter and when it "sucks in" and changes colors, I cut the sprue.

If I open to soon wouldn't that leave a lead smear on top of the block? or is that only on the steel molds? What I get from what you are saying is that as soon as I see the lead solidify on top of the sprue, I should open the mold and release the bullets, right? I admit I am a newbie at casting and Lyman's cast book is next on my list (I'll prob get the kit with the book, pot and sizer, then later on I may get a Lee or Lyman bottom pour production pot. I'm currently using an lead plumbers pot and ladle and casting on the stove top).
 
I think most people new to casting wait too long to cut the sprue, thinking they will get smears. I do it the same way as Cloudpeak with good results. As soon as the puddle in the sprue plate dimples or starts to change color, cut it. The sprue plate should cut with just a light tap or two from a large wooden dowel or plastic headed hammer. If you have to hit it hard, you waited too long.
It takes a little practice. You'll get the hang of it.
 
3 good taps, 1 will not do it. If your cutting the sprue to soon, the base of the bullet will have a hole in it. In other words the bullet base will NOT be smooth.
If I open to soon wouldn't that leave a lead smear on top of the block? or is that only on the steel molds?
Yes for sure on steel. I dont use Lee moulds.
 
If I open to soon wouldn't that leave a lead smear on top of the block? or is that only on the steel molds? What I get from what you are saying is that as soon as I see the lead solidify on top of the sprue, I should open the mold and release the bullets, right?

One the greatest inventions since the wheel is "Bullplate Sprue Plate Lube". I consider it a necessity to keep Lee aluminum molds in top operating condition. http://bullshop.gunloads.com/prices.html (Lower right part of this page). This product will eliminate most any problem you might have with an aluminum mold. A little bottle will last a long time as not much is needed. Just a small dab on a Q tip. Do a search on the cast bullet group for more information. I use it on my steel molds as well. BTW, good stuff to lube the alignment pins, too.

Cloudpeak
 
Just a note to add: The Lee 6-cavity aluminum mold has a handle for the sprue plate. You don't tap it with anything, you just cut the sprues by opening the sprue plate by hand. This should give you an idea of how easy it should be.

And another note to add: To avoid a hole in the bottom of the bullet, pay attention to how full you make the divot in the sprue plate. This is your 'reservoir' of molten lead to suck down into the cavity as the bullet cools and shrinks. Fill the divot just right, then watch as it the cavity sucks it down. When it stops sucking material down into the cavity (a matter of seconds!) go ahead and cut the sprue. The lead will still be soft, but there will be no hole in the base of the bullet. Be careful dropping your bullets, they may still be soft. Drop on a folded towel, or into water.
 
I have to agree with Dean, you might be waiting too long to cut the sprue. It is true though if you cut it too quickly, the base of the boolits will have holes so it's a fine line you have to figure out on your own moulds. Back to the original question though, I would send that mould back to Lee or at least order a replacement sprue plate and try it again. Good Luck amigo. This casting takes time and patience that's for sure but it is as much fun as shooting and reloading to me. Once you get the hang of it it goes pretty smooth.

The Dove
 
Back to the original question though, I would send that mould back to Lee or at least order a replacement sprue plate and try it again.

Return to Lee or try to do an exchange with Midway ? (Where I bought it from, just got the mold on Friday 1/16/09) Do you think I'd get any hassle from Midway if I fill out the return paper work and just ship it back to them?

Thanks again
 
Return to Lee or try to do an exchange with Midway ? (Where I bought it from, just got the mold on Friday 1/16/09) Do you think I'd get any hassle from Midway if I fill out the return paper work and just ship it back to them?

Thanks again

Brian;
Return it to Lee. They don't care where you bought it. They have an unconditional warranty for the first two years. They'll fix it or replace it. Include a note explaining the problem. Bullets out of round, sprue plate not flush, etc.
Tell them when you bought it.
It usually takes them about two weeks to get you a new/repaired item.
 
As others have said, an out-of-round bullet would be from the mold not closing fully. It is VERY important to lube Lee molds so they will close fully. Lube the steel pins and aluminum "V's" with a little bullet lube. Also hold the mold halves in alignment as you close them. Treat them gently.
Castaway
 
Got my mold back today

:) Got my mold back today, actually they gave me a new one. They also sent a hand written note along with it explaining that the one I sent in was defiantly defective and gave me some tips on keeping this one running smooth. They also lubed and tested it for me and said that this one does produce good bullets. To make it even better they also included a Lee products catalog. I couldn't be any happier and wanted to share my experience I've had them. I'm pretty convinced that Lee is a great company.

P.S. They lubed the sprue plate with some kinda gray/blackish grease, it moves smooth as butter. Any idea what this stuff is?
 
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