Most Economical Loads

[P Flados]

I "run the numbers" from time to time and have made choices that have pushed my costs way down. I like keeping my "higher volume" ammo dirt cheep to allow shooting "all I want" without thinking twice.

For "mouse fart" loads, Titegroup gives both good metering in small charges and about the lowest cost for a given projectile at a given velocity.

My other powder I use for light loads is Promo. This powder is near best for lowest charge for given projectile at a given velocity. However, the 11% reduction in charge is offset by a cost per pound (currently ~$36 per pound delivered for a 16 lb order) that is ~20% higher than Titegroup (~$30 per pound delivered for a 16 lb order). Alliant powders have gone up much more than the ball powders from Hodgdon, Shooters World, etc.

For the record, 231 is pretty good for cost right now. However, my Quickload evaluations show it takes about 23% more than Promo or 10% more than Titegroup to get the same velocity with the same bullet.

I currently cast bullets using range scrap at near zero out of pocket cost. However, when estimating cost per load I typically assign $1.10 per pound to be "more fair" when comparing a 50 gr bullet to a 200 gr bullet.

For me, primer cost is very low as I reload primers (using EPH-20). Around $0.002 each.

My 7 TCU plinker is pretty good at 0.011 (70 gr bullet) + 0.011 (2.5 gr TG) + 0.002 (primer) = $0.024 each.

My lowest cost round is 32 ACP at 0.009 (55 gr bullet) + 0.007 (1.7 gr TG) + 0.002 (primer) = $0.018 each. Fired from a TC Contender 8" stub tube barrel.

I have a 9mm loaded to 380 power (a little more "bang" than both of the above) at 0.017 (110 gr bullet) + 0.014 (2.7 gr Promo) + 0.002 (primer) = $0.033 each.

My 38 special gets fed a mix of 95, 110 & 120 gr bullets over Promo. Average cost is probably around $0.04 each.

All of the above are part of my regular rotation for shooting at the nearby indoor range (typically 2 or 3 times a month) and get loaded in sizable quantities. I frequently also shoot some amount of full power or heavy mid range stuff that can be 9mm, 357 Mag, 7 TCU or something else. Quantities fired for the "big bang" stuff are much lower than the low power stuff.

 

[P Flados]

The issue with cheap 30-30 is the large primer availability. One could use lpm with no pressure issues if your gun will hit the primer. I haven't gone down that road but I have called starline a dozen times requesting srp 30-30.

For 30-30 and 30 Herrett, I have use lots of regular LPP with no problems.

 

[AJC1]

For 30-30 and 30 Herrett, I have use lots of regular LPP with no problems.

Unfortunately lpp isn't more available.... I've not shot 45acp in a while as their not available. Don't know what to do when I get the 45c carbine from my parents.
I do have some spp 45acp but no luck on 45c

 

[jmorris]

I’d almost be willing to switch to Titegroup for target loads but it’s so dirty.

VV N320 is very close to TG, in both charge weights and resulting velocities but it is much cleaner. It also generally costs more but I prefer clean too.

 

[AJC1]

VV N320 is very close to TG, in both charge weights and resulting velocities but it is much cleaner. It also generally costs more but I prefer clean too.

Clean, vs dirty hasn't been well covered for some reason. There may be several reasons, but I believe graphite content used to be one of the big ones. In some powders it's because a certain pressure is needed for good burn... 4227 definitely fits in that category. I never felt TG was dirty compared to unique but I haven't tested any vv pistol powders. Seems like there should be a clean vs dirty scale, and it seems consensus is vv pistol powders rank among the cleanest.

 

[DMW1116]

Titegroup would certainly work in my target loads for 9mm. Maybe I will try some when my bottle of HS6 is gone. So far it shoots the best for those target loads but Titegroup is right up there. I just haven’t shot as many with it so I’m not as certain it will work. I should try W231 too. That would certainly offer options.

 

[FROGO207]

As P Faldos mentioned I also use Promo with Red Dot data and lead bullets for rifle and pistol loads that are economical. Also I use EdHarris "the load" to figure my rifle loading amounts.

 

[P Flados]

Unfortunately lpp isn't more available.... I've not shot 45acp in a while as their not available. Don't know what to do when I get the 45c carbine from my parents.
I do have some spp 45acp but no luck on 45c

I watch primers using Ammoseek. LPP does seem to be more available / less ovepriced. https://ammoseek.com/reloading/primers?ikw=large

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Except Titegroup is 25% cheaper than W231. That said I use W231 for all the pistol calibers I reload and one rifle caliber. It uses charge weights similar to Titegroup so you can spread it pretty thin and get a lot of rounds from a pound.

Titegroup is 25% less expensive than W231/HP-38 today? Is it really?

 

[Necessary_Nutrient]

I don't think there is an economical .223 load when comparing available factory ammo. Pretty close estimates I found for the powder you're looking at, OP is the following:

FMJ Bullets from Powder Valley: .12/rd
Shooters world powder, 1 LB: .1/rd
SRP from Powder Valley: .08/rd

Total per round without shipping or HazMat: .30

Compare that with loaded ammo, this is from ammoman, it could probably be found cheaper but free shipping is included.
https://www.ammoman.com/223-rem-lake-city-55-grain-fmj-22355fmj-1000-rounds

Cost per round shipping included: .42
and this is pretty decent quality .223 ammo.

Add in the cost of reloading components and their maintenance and cleaning, brass, etc. and I think it's a wash. Now if you're trying to recreate quality varmint, target or tactical ammo, the calculations might change. Some calibers are almost mandatory to reload but .223, 9mm and some others are definitely not in that catetgory.

 

[DMW1116]

For 223 and 9mm it’s getting very close. I’ve saved enough that my equipment is paid for just in 357 Mag and 30-30 loading at current prices. Careful sourcing if local components keeps me down to 26-28 cents per round for 223 with better accuracy even in FMJ. The real savings is in the match loads with 75 and 69 grain bullets. However AAC ammo is challenging even that so I’ll have to try some soon to see how it shoots. I’d be better off shooting factory 9mm right now except I can load 147 grain match loads for about 6 cents per round cheaper than factory 115 gr FMJ and get much better accuracy. If I didn’t shoot bullseye style with my 9mm I’d be better off with factory fare. However slow fire at 50 yards with Blazer 115 grain is an exercise in futility.

Last time I was at Cabelas nearby, Titegroup was $30/lb and W231 was $40. Titegroup might be $31-$32 now, but I haven’t looked. If it were around, Cleanshot from Shooters World would be $30 with tax.

 

[ballman6711]

I load .223 55gr fmj for about $0.33 per round, and 62gr hp for another penny or two, this is not counting the cost of brass, which would have me over $0.75 per round. So a bit of a wash for the 55gr rounds but a bit of a savings for the 62gr load.

I load .45acp 185gr swc for about $0.15 per round, maybe a bit less, but I'm still using powder that cost $20/lb.

As far as saving money, my most economical load would be for my .480 Ruger at about $0.44 per round for 370gr rnfp. .45 Colt would probably be next, and then .357 mag and 7.62x39.

I'm set up to load 9mm, but haven't done it yet since I haven't shot it in years, but I don't believe it would be cost effective at this point in time.

I don't think cost or savings is a big reason for reloading for me. It's mostly about shooting what I want to shoot that the factories don't make, or these past couple of years was simply unavailable.

 

[DMW1116]

I’m considering a 45 so that’s good news. My 357 uses rifle size powder charges for full power loads. I’m still stringing along a bottle of 2400 I bought 2 years ago for cast bullets in 30-30. It works WAY better for 357 Mag.

 

[ballman6711]

45 Colt or 45acp?

chris

 

[DMW1116]

45 Colt or 45acp?

chris

Yes.

 

[ballman6711]

I just figured my cost on 45 Colt, about $0.28 using pre-covid primer prices, and about $0.32 using current ($100/1K) primer prices, so a good savings per round.

chris

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

A lot is written and discussed about accuracy and velocity but I was wondering what people use as their economy/plinking load?

I have a load for my 30-30 using cast and coated bullets with W231 pistol powder that shoots pretty well and costs less than a box of Tula 223 ammo before the pandemic. I also have similar loads for 357 Magnum and 9mm. Minimum charges of W231 powder, cast and coated bullets, and the cheapest primers I can find, which are hovering around 6 cents each.

I also bring this up because I’m pondering a similar load for 223. Minimum charge of the cheapest ball powder I can find (Shooters World Tactical Rifle), on sale FMJ projectiles, and the cheapest SRP I can get, which here hovers around 7 cents each. This would come in about the same as the 30-30 load cost wise. Given the cost per round, I should probably switch to 30-30 for practicing with iron sights (Williams Peep).

My most economical loads by far are old classics for the .32 and .38 revolvers.
However, keep in mind I’m burning through a lot of pre-Y2K stock still. My current econo-load jug of Unique is Hercules branded and my plinking revolver primers are either Federal SPP in the small wood sleeves with black-on-red jackets or some green-and-yellow Remington 1-1/2’s. I have - and often use - newer stock but if I’m just going to shoot water bottles and beer cans I use the old stuff. A lot of that old stuff was free or payback for a favor so my cost was nil.
One of the reasons I never even tried comparing handloads to factory is because then I would have to track costs on a per-item basis. That’s turning something not-work into work. Trying to do that with all thirty-something cartridges I load for would make it hard work.
I prefer hardly working when given a choice.
So free powder and free primers using 30-year + old cases and bullets bought back when Lee Jurras was still a young man gives a cost per cartridge of… ???
Probably a lot less than a new box of 85gr .32Long Hi-Speed’s.

 

[illinoisburt]

For me, primer cost is very low as I reload primers (using EPH-20). Around $0.002 each

How is that process? Is it homemade tools or more commercialized items which are repurposed?

 

[mdi]

Here I go again. Mods. if I'm being an *!!#. delete this post, but maybe a new reloader will see that reloading ain't about money for many folks.

Not being snarky or meaning to offend anyone. I have never heard a fisherman complain about how much his salmon jig costs, or any " Bob's bait and tackle " has ghost shrimp for $2,89 per dozen" posts. Nor has anyone walked up to me and asked how much my jacket cost. I really don't like attaching cost or $$$ to any hobby, takes some of the fun out. I know there are some that enjoy doing the math about reloading vs factory ammo, maybe sharing what a great deal their saving $.29 cents on a pound of powder is, but for me it detracts from the enjoyment...

I try to stay out of $$$/reloading conversations but sometimes I like to hear like minded members. I seem to be in the minority, so be it. Not apologizing for my opinions, but this seems to be a huge pet peeve for me, and as all aspects of reloading, all opinions, all sides should be available.

 

[Blue68f100]

My most economical loads are the 22LR I bought 20 yrs ago, $12/550. I don't worry that much about cost. I'm more into accuracy which puts you into better quality bullets, $$$. I generally buy my supplies in bulk and stack them deep when prices are low.

 

[DMW1116]

I’m always looking for a way to get 90% of the performance for half the cost. This thread really isn’t all about comparing home made to factory loads. I just managed to find loads using 10-25 cent bullets and 25-30 dollar per pound powder that shoot almost as good as 40-50 cent bullets and 50 dollar per pound powder.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I'm not sure where all these crazy numbers are coming from for loading the .223 but with current component prices you can load a round for just under 28¢. That is a cost of $5.37/box of 20. Nowhere but nowhere are you going to find factory ammo for that price.

 

[P Flados]

How is that process? Is it homemade tools or more commercialized items which are repurposed?

castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?434882-Making-Sparkplugs-My-first-100-primers/page1
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?437558-Primer-Reloading-Pics-and-Tips
https://aardvarkreloading.com

 

[P Flados]

Titegroup is 25% less expensive than W231/HP-38 today? Is it really?

I just double checked Natchez & Powder Valley. Although I had seen W231 on sale not long ago, currently it is just under Promo, about 16% more than the going rate for Titegroup (when available). This is based on cost per pound delivered for a 16# order.

 

[BJung]

Nice to read that there are shooters as Thrift Minded as myself. Maybe we had parents that lived through the Depression. Anyway, I keep my costs like most of you. All my brass is range brass or brass I traded. I cast as many bullets I can and am still using blemished bullets I bought 15 years ago. I bought a lot. This saves me money to buy powder and primers.