Most unlucky guys with dies

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kestak

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Greetings,

(I am still waiting my 45ACP die to report on the other thread with squeaky/hard sizing)

Here something is wrong. I should say I am doing something wrong and I need to know what.

We are shooting a LOT of .223. A weekend of 300-400 rounds is a slow weekend.

I am reloading exclusively LC, PMC, RP and FC.
I am using a Lee Hard Cast press.
This is all about depriming and resizing dies in 223 WIN.
I use Imperial wax. I put a tiny film on my index and gently do one turn just under the neck on the body of the brass.
I clean my brass with walnut and Nu-Finish so it is shiny and with no dirt or particules on it.

Dillon die: I twisted twice the shaft holding the sizing ball. I broke 1 sizing ball and the die got scratched inside. Per Dillon instructions, I used a 800 grit sandpaper and gently "rubbed" where the scratch was. (After the second time I broke the shaft, I moved to a Lee die.

Lee die: Work very fine but it kept havins scratches inside and I need to gently sand the inside every 200-300 brass.

Redding die: The die has no issue. However, I noticed when I pull the brass, the sizing "ball" is the one offering the most resistance and I am afraid it pulls up a little bit the neck. I lube slightly the interior of the neck and it has the same resistance.

So my conundrum:

Why my dies scratch so easilly? :banghead:
Why my stupid Dillon die keep breaking? :what:
Why the Redding die is harder on the pull than the other dies? I did not do a lot of brass with it, but I guess it will scratch soon... :uhoh:

Would my solution be to buy a carbide Dillon resizing die? :fire:

Thank you
 
I think you need to use a little more lube, Imperial sizing wax is good but just try using a little more, especially around the base, thats where most of the resizing takes place.
 
Try Hornady One-Shot

I have used One-Shot in the can (not pump) with no scratches or stuck cases due to lube. I spray down the first fives cases liberally. Then "normal amount" for the rest. Do not have to touch each case.

Check to see if the presses die threads are straight, inline and that the ram lines up with the hole at the top of the stroke. Had a bad Lee press waste a batch of Wbry brass. Replace was miss bored also.
 
Greetings,

(I am still waiting my 45ACP die to report on the other thread with squeaky/hard sizing)

Here something is wrong. I should say I am doing something wrong and I need to know what.

We are shooting a LOT of .223. A weekend of 300-400 rounds is a slow weekend.

I am reloading exclusively LC, PMC, RP and FC.
I am using a Lee Hard Cast press.
This is all about depriming and resizing dies in 223 WIN.
I use Imperial wax. I put a tiny film on my index and gently do one turn just under the neck on the body of the brass.
I clean my brass with walnut and Nu-Finish so it is shiny and with no dirt or particules on it.

Dillon die: I twisted twice the shaft holding the sizing ball. I broke 1 sizing ball and the die got scratched inside. Per Dillon instructions, I used a 800 grit sandpaper and gently "rubbed" where the scratch was. (After the second time I broke the shaft, I moved to a Lee die.

Lee die: Work very fine but it kept havins scratches inside and I need to gently sand the inside every 200-300 brass.

Redding die: The die has no issue. However, I noticed when I pull the brass, the sizing "ball" is the one offering the most resistance and I am afraid it pulls up a little bit the neck. I lube slightly the interior of the neck and it has the same resistance.

So my conundrum:

Why my dies scratch so easilly? :banghead:
Why my stupid Dillon die keep breaking? :what:
Why the Redding die is harder on the pull than the other dies? I did not do a lot of brass with it, but I guess it will scratch soon... :uhoh:

Would my solution be to buy a carbide Dillon resizing die? :fire:

Thank you
Have you cleaned off the media and debris after you take the brass out of the tumbler or media separator? If not, place several hundred cases in an old towel, twist it into a sac, and shake. Now your brass is debris-free.

Next step is to brush the inside of the case neck. RCBS and others make caliber-specific nylon brushes just for that purpose. Two or three strokes will remove most combustion byproduct from the neck.

Then apply lube to the cases as others suggested. Some spray, some roll them around on a lubed pad. You may also want to lube the neck insides, with mica.

Finally, run the case through the sizing die. Don't force or jerk the press handle, just apply steady pressure. If the die is adjusted per the mfg's instructions, the decap pin will pop the primer without bottoming out on the case web, and the sizing ball will resize the neck on the way back out. There should not be any excessive pressure unless you are dealing with military crimped cases.

How can you see far enough inside your 223 die to tell they are scratched?


btw, it's 223 Rem, not 223 Win.
 
I'll throw my .02 cents worth here. On the Dillon die it sound like you've got the decapping rod down too low,back it off as far as it will go then screw it down till the primer pops out. As to the Redding die they make a carbide expander ball for their dies in various calibers and is well worth the money. No offense but I've been reloading for the better part of 40 yrs and have never seen so many problems with so many dies. Perhaps a reloading class or help from someone who you know that reloads might be in order
 
I had the same problem using some off brand lube... i cant remember the brand...

But, I tried some 50W Amsoil synthetic oil and that seems to keep my dies happy now. No more stuck cases.

tumbling the brass before you resize will get all the powder and misc crap off the brass... it doesn't hurt to wipe the cases down and inspect the insides for debris before you start resizing.

if you breaking the decapping pin, there is some crap in the case or you are bottoming out the pin, adjust your die and you should not have anymore problems.

hope this helps!
 
I use a loading block made for 50 rounds. I can put 100 on it. Then i set it on a bar stool so i can get to each side. Then spray with Hornady one shot. Have never had a stuck case (yet) and it also lubes the necks. Just spray them like you're painting them especially on the base.
 
Greetings,

Talked to Lee. They say ship back the dies and they will polish them for free.

Yay! :D

I wish we would have the same service with the cars dealers.....:banghead:

Thank you
 
easy solution

Buy five cans of OneShot. Three cans for you will last a long time. Mail the other ones to old farmer and I

Did you check the alignment of the ram and die thread hole?
Also check the hole alignment in the die body.
 
Buy five cans of OneShot. Three cans for you will last a long time. Mail the other ones to old farmer and I

Did you check the alignment of the ram and die thread hole?
Also check the hole alignment in the die body.
Excuse me? Its OLE farmer. I'm getting old fast enough by myself! :) But i do get along fine with the one shot.
 
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