Might as well. Black on black is about as good as blue on black. BTW. The remote possibility exists we won't have a flood tomorrow as we've had the past several days. Might be able to take the 10.5" for a spin. Getting anxious but since firing weapons in the mud and downpours is no longer mandatory, I elect to punt.I think that you meant to type black font.
Lol. Sorry about that. Had no idea that black wasn't the default background and other colors were available. I must have changed this a while back. Kind of a night mode deal.??? I had no idea that anyone would choose a black background ... which probably has something to do will all the years I spent looking at green characters on black background.
I shall leave it at the default (on my screen, black) as imashooter would prefer.
Be interesting to see how it goes. Hope it goes well. Don't like jumping through hoops unless I'm informed ahead of time that I must.Well, I have an AdjGB installed on the 16", ready to test, but some ugly-looking weather is about to descend upon us ... so, I will plan on doing this tomorrow.
Getting the original GB off was surprisingly difficult. One of the two set screws just would not release. Bummer. I finally got it, though. BTW, I had mounted those set screws with zero thread locker, since I was still in project-mode. Odd.
The new AGBs are the 3-screw clamp-on style which I like much better.
I also had to mod the FFHandguard to allow allen wrench access for the side-mounted locking screw on these ABGs, but that alteration process went very smoothly.
I put them on firmly but dry and 3 of 4 were a *$%@#* to get off.
Use the Blue Locktite. It's softset and the screws will come out.OH ... who needs thread locker on their gas block set screws? GOOD LORD!
<chuckle> Unless you are saying the blue loctite actually acts as a lubricant during removal, I think that you may have missed my point.
Perhaps I'm not finding it. Did you draw any conclusions from the examination? Did Faxon offer any possibilities as to the issues you experienced? Thanks.The barrels are on their way back to the Faxon Mothership ... dropped them off at the FedEx counter in Walgreens at 8:22 this morning (after completing my shipping at Giant Food and on my way to Super Target).
A few details are still unaddressed ...
someguy2800, the port on the 16" is a shade smaller than .082", perhaps .081". The 20" port, ~.093". All I have to easily work for such measurements with are wire-gauge twist drills that I can check with micrometer or calipers.
Probably the primary reason why I dismissed my initial thought that what I was seeing was a product of bad chambers was ... what are the chances that I bought 2 different Faxon barrels (same style/form-factor but different lengths & Lots) from 2 different vendors weeks apart and they both have such flawed chambers? In addition to that, I had not seen anything in the chambers that might cause an issue.
Well. Sure got that one wrong.
I received these barrels a day apart. The 20" barrel was part of a long-delayed shipment from Faxon to AR15Discounts. The 16" from Brownells was in-stock and shipped immediately.
Upon removing each from its long, heavy ziplock bag, I visually inspected the exterior, wiping it down as I went, and did a quick look thru the bore whilst pointing the barrel toward the LED ceiling lightbar over the gunbench. I glanced into the chamber while illuminating it with a bright light. I eyeballed relationship of the gas port and barrel extension pin (did they appear to be reasonably well lined up?). I then secured the barrel in one of my Lohman Sight Vises and ran a couple of mineral spirit (MS) dampened patches thru the bore, followed by one pass of a relatively new phosphor-bronze .223 rifle bore brush, followed by another MS patch and then a dry patch. I cleaned the chamber with a MS-dampened mop and then dried it. I then patched the bore & chamber with eezox-dampened patches and repeated the process on the 2nd barrel.
At the end of that, I dry-patched both bore+chambers and wiped down both barrels with my "eezox flannel" and placed them "in the breeze" overnight.
When I came back in after discovering the problems, I added some phosphor-bronze brush-action to my chamber-cleaning approach.
I guess that about covers it ...
OH ... who needs thread locker on their gas block set screws? GOOD LORD!
.
That and/or there was no proper QC Inspection prior to bagging the units for shipment. O'course, that assumes that such "residual salt deposits" are plainly visible.
So do I.
???
???
Benefit of the doubt?
<chuckle> I am not suggesting an evil conspiracy or any bad intent on their part, just that it sounds to me like something with which they have had experience even if that experience takes the form of a training BOLO.
Yeah, benefit of the doubt as compared to "...... strongly suggests to me that they are not strangers to this specific issue.". I Flitzed the chamber this evening with a couple of .38 / 9mm mops, Flitz, drill. Did 6 one minute sessions. Wanted to do 10 but was pressed for time. Hopefully test it tomorrow and see if the brass is less marred. I do agree whatever the reason needs addressing asap. Your two barrels from perhaps different lots, my 10.5" barrel and to a lesser degree, my months old 16" barrel. As saturated as the market is these days with the average citizen owning 20,000 ARs and most owners rarely firing them, I can understand vast under-reporting of this possibly common problem with Faxon barrels. Hope that isn't the case.
) poor chamber conditions. I recall there was this one SVT-40 with a thoroughly and uniformly frosted chamber that reeeeally hated to release cases. I carefully polished that chamber (with abrasive polishing compounds) repeatedly until it would reliably release cases. While the chamber dimensions were little changed, in that one, I only shot the berdan-primed ammo that I would not be reloading.
Of that I have no doubt. I am looking forward to moving forward with this project when they return the repaired or replaced barrels to me.
If you polish the chamber in the Faxon barrel, you will remove the nitride coating.OK, now I understand.
Since I collect old milsurps, I have probably had more experience than most with correcting (trying to correct
Correct. I knew that ... but ... I thank you for making sure that I knew that.
Need to do your homework. Nitride is a metal treatment that harden the surface it’s not a coating . The treatment causes the surface to turn black . If the Black is removed the metal is still Nitride treated. It’s not like bluing that only covers the surface.
