My Dad's 1980 Browning Hi-Power needs some TLC (Lotsa PICS)

[StrikeFire83]

This is my Dad's Browning Hi-Power. Browning's "Date Your Firearm" website places the serial number at 1980 manufacture. This pistol was shot/carried a LOT throughout the 80s, but around 1991 Dad switched over to revolvers...and this pistol sat in a plastic case for over 20 years.

Tonight Dad pulled the Hi-Power out of its case and told me he wants to get it running again. Someday, this pistol will be mine. According to Dad, the recoil spring "was pretty worn out" when it was put in mothballs in 91, so I'm sure that will have to be replaced. Basically, I have 3 questions:

1) Are all 9mm Hi-Power recoil springs the same, and where's the best place to order one.
2) Is there any way to get the rust off those slide serrations without taking the bluing with it?
3) Aside from cosmetics, after I replace this recoil spring is there anything wrong with just taking this gun out and shooting it before I address the rust?

Thanks in advance. Here are the pics:

 

[Jim Watson]

I would get a regular recoil spring on order
http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto Pistols/BROWNING/1935 (HI POWER)/cID1/mID3/dID5#41

and in the meanwhile soak the rusty serrations in Kroil for a few days, then go after them with a fine wire brush.

Sure, a good quality refinish will make it look nice again... for a couple of hundred dollars.

 

[StrikeFire83]

Excellent, Jim, thank you for the recoil spring link. That's not too bad, price wise.

I've been shooting guns for almost 10 years and this is the first time I've heard about "Kroil" ... it's been nothing but Hoppes copper solvent/Hoppes oil for me. But then again until now I've only shot plastic guns with melonite slides (Glocks) or steel guns covered in epoxy (CZ-75).

 

[browningguy]

The kroil is a good idea, but I would use a plastic kitchen scrubber first before the wire brush. The kitchen scrubber will not leave go down to the bare metal.

 

[StrikeFire83]

Also, no offense to you Hi-Power traditionalists, but this safety is TINY and very tight...hard to disengage in a hurry! I can swear I've seen a larger safety on the newer models. At some point (although not immediately) I'll have to get that changed out.

 

[GZOh]

Gun has alot of 'character'... enjoy it!

 

[StrikeFire83]

Gun has alot of 'character'... enjoy it!

Thanks! Yeah, this gun was Dad's constant companion in Central/South America throughout the 1980s. Means a lot to him and a lot to me. I think he feels a little guilty about its current condition. After he retired he started keeping/carrying .357 mag revolvers exclusively for everything: self-defense, target shooting, and the occasional bit of handgun hunting. I wanna get the old girl in fighting shape again.

 

[sub-moa]

I'd certainly try the soaking but do the scrubbing with an old toothbrush first...soak and brush several times before resorting to the wire. You might well be surprised with the results.

Additionally, and I hope this is not the case, but Pachs have been known to allow moisture to collet under them resulting in rust on the frame...I'd remove the grips before clean-up as well. When doing so, understand that some older Pachs have been known to harden and get brittle with age...and yet again, some seem to last forever .

If the serial number begins with 245PM, yes it'd be 1980. FWIW, your pistol, with the adjustable (Type A or "Beer Can") sights is known as a "Sport Model" (Model Code 3033).

BTW, factory recoil spring is 17#...many replace that with an 18.5# recoil spring with nothing but positive results.

Good luck...

After pics anticipated

 

[sub-moa]

FN introduced extended ambidextrous safeties in 1981 with the MkII, they became standard in 1989 with introduction of the MkIII. There are aftermarket ambidextrous and single side safeties that may be fitted to your pistol. Cylinder and Slide has been making them for decades...they have a well deserved excellent reputation...

 

[StrikeFire83]

Thanks, I'll check for rust under the grips.

If you could only buy one set, and planned to shoot only standard pressure FMJ in this gun, which would you go for? Standard or the 18.5?

 

[sub-moa]

Factory standard springs are just fine for factory standard ammunition ...

 

[TJx]

Midway has the standard Browning 17lb recoil spring.
I would replace that, clean & lube before shooting.
Given the guns age and background I would highly recommend doing a detail strip to clean throughly and replace all springs. Plus maybe think about removing magazine safety to improve the trigger. All of which is really not that hard at all. You will be amazed at how simple this gun really is.

 

[Pilot]

I use an 18.5 lb Wolff recoil spring on my 9MM MK III Hi Power. Works fine, and I shoot standard pressure loads, and even some lighter loads that I reload myself.

That Hi Power isn't really in bad shape. You'll be surprised how nicely that will clean up. I'd replace the Pachmyrs with another grip from Brownells. They have lots to choose from.

 

[Certaindeaf]

I'd field strip it at least and take the grips off and rub/scrape at the rust with the ends of wooden toothpicks, skewers and chopsticks and some good oil (ATF will work well). wipe the crud off often with clean rags..

 

[WardenWolf]

Flitz polish will take off the rust without damaging factory bluing, much faster than soaking it in Kroil. It'll also clean up the rest of the gun quite nicely. Keep in mind, though, that surface rust like that usually means the bluing below it is gone, so no matter what you'll have some bare metal there.

 

[txgunsuscg]

That does have a lot of character, and I would love to hear how your Dad used it in Central/South America...

As for parts, Brownells or Midway will both have any parts you need (recoil spring, factory or Mec-Gar mags, Pachmayr grips). If you want to update the grips a bit, both VZ and Hogue have some pretty nice looking and functional Micarta grips.

Any good smith should be able to re-finish, but if you wanted to get the safety changed out and get a re-finish at the same time, Cylinder and Slide has an excellent reputation on the Hi-Power.

And your gun is in a lot better shape than Hi-Powers I've seen for sale online, and has intrinsic value to you as well. If it passes a function check, once you replace the spring, it should be fine to take to the range. I wish you many years of enjoyment.

 

[StrikeFire83]

That does have a lot of character, and I would love to hear how your Dad used it in Central/South America...

So would I but he never talks about it. All I know is that he worked for the Defense Intelligence Agency in those areas during those dates. Beyond that, I know nothing. And I probably never will.

As for parts, Brownells or Midway will both have any parts you need (recoil spring, factory or Mec-Gar mags, Pachmayr grips). If you want to update the grips a bit, both VZ and Hogue have some pretty nice looking and functional Micarta grips.

Any good smith should be able to re-finish, but if you wanted to get the safety changed out and get a re-finish at the same time, Cylinder and Slide has an excellent reputation on the Hi-Power.

And your gun is in a lot better shape than Hi-Powers I've seen for sale online, and has intrinsic value to you as well. If it passes a function check, once you replace the spring, it should be fine to take to the range. I wish you many years of enjoyment.

Thanks to everyone, yall have certainly given me a lot of great info. I think right now all I'm going to do is replace the recoil spring with the standard unit and do my best to get rid of the rust spots. I really don't like bluing on guns or the rear sight or the safety , but it's still my Dad's gun and he likes all of those things...so they stay.

 

[StrikeFire83]

PS, I took off the Pachmyr grips and looked at the frame underneath. I don't know if you can tell from these pics, but there's like NO RUST under there! Yes! The Pachs still feel good and I see no reason to replace them.

 

[sub-moa]

Congrats SF83, good news . When you re-install the Pachs, give the inside of the grips and the frame itself a good coat of your preferred lubricant/preservative.

An old shcool tip to improve the sight picture: Bench the pistol and count how many serrations you can actually see through the shallow/tight rear sight notch, then degrease the front sight and paint that area...first a coat of white...allow it to dry, then a coat of orange. Testors model paint works just fine. Beware though, some cleaners...such as Hoppes, act like paint thinner. Others such as "BreakFree" types of CLP are generally kind to the paint. It works well...I carried a Sport like yours (w/ an aftermarket extended safety) in the late '70s/into the '80s while working U/C Narcotics...including running an U/C Go-Fast boat in South Florida.

Again, good luck...and pics when you're done ...