My Future Bench Rifle

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I have a Savage Model 110 in .243 Winchester that I'm planning on converting to get rebarrelled for 8mm Mauser. Yes, it's the long action, older variant.
I've currently got the set-up as this:
Leapers UTG 5th Generation AO Full Size Illuminated Reticle 4-16x50mm Scope
Cheap Bi-pod
Custom Cheek Piece
Remington Shell Holder

Here's some pictures of an uncompleted project:
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Is there any way to modify the blind magazine on this rifle? The 8mm Mauser will fit in the action, but it won't feed all the way into the magazine. I'm pretty much got my heart set on 8mm and I don't want to have to make it a single shot rifle.
 
I'm rather curious as to why you'd want 8mm for a bench rifle? 6.5mm, 7mm or .308 calibers all have good, very accurate bullets available. I don't think similar accurate 8mm target bullets are out there. OTOH, if you want a rifle that shoots cheap(er) ammunition, and are less worried about how accurate it is, you'd probably want something like a 1.5-4x or 2-8x scope...

John
 
The 8mm cartridge definitely wouldn't be my first choice for a 1000 yard rifle. I wouldn't even be in my top 25 choices. You're getting more realistic with .308 idea.
 
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck said:
I have a Savage Model 110 in .243 Winchester that I'm planning on converting to get rebarrelled for 8mm Mauser. Yes, it's the long action, older variant.
I've currently got the set-up as this:
Leapers UTG 5th Generation AO Full Size Illuminated Reticle 4-16x50mm Scope
Cheap Bi-pod
Custom Cheek Piece
Remington Shell Holder

Is there any way to modify the blind magazine on this rifle? The 8mm Mauser will fit in the action, but it won't feed all the way into the magazine. I'm pretty much got my heart set on 8mm and I don't want to have to make it a single shot rifle.

My intent with this rifle is to be a 1000 yarder. I might have to go with .308 because the magazine is too short for the 8mm.

With all due respect, the 8mm Mauser isnt a round I would chose. Dont know the budget but with what you have listed I would use the action and ditch everything else. Buy the best aftermarket stock,trigger,barrel,base/scope you can find within your budget. Another option would be simply to buy a rifle that already is set up for what you intend to use it for. The 260 Rem and 308 Win make the short list for me.
 
I'm not going to change out the scope because that is the intended scope that I want to use. The trigger doesn't need any additional work, it is already set at 2.5 pounds and to me that's perfectly fine. If anything I'll need a new barrel and stock.
 
I wouldnt use a airsoft scope for 1000 yard shooting but that's just me. What's the total elevation adjustment on it. Good luck on your project.
 
you'd be much better off staying with the 243. Get it rebarreled with a faster twist and shoot the VLD's out of it. 8mm mauser is rarely(if ever) used for 1000yard benchrest builds, there is a reason for that.
 
Is there a reason for calling my scope an airsoft scope? Its a high quality scope meant for real firearms. I'm not just some dumb kid, I know what I want and I got what I need so far. Even my Dad, a former Marine, thinks the scope is of excellent quality. I was simply asking about the possibilities of chambering for 8mm.
 
Bolt head on your .243 will match up with a .308 perfectly and that would be the most cost effective solution overall. Unless its and older 110 (long action) 8mm isn't going to work in that action anyway.

P.S. Calling a Leapers 5th Gen scope "high quality" is like calling a 68 vw beetle at luxury car. Glad its working for you but there are much much better optics out there.
 
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Never heard of the scope brand you mention, but to look at it, it looks like the scope I have on 2 of my rifles. One a .243 and the other a .300 Win Mag. Mine does not have the long tube at the front beyond the objective lens, but otherwise it looks exactly like my Center Point 4-16X40 with a lighted mil-dot reticle.

I used to think mine was a good optic too. It does hold zero very well, it has a decent brightness to it and works great in low light conditions. I got mine at Wally World for $79.97. Then I bought a real scope. There is no comparison in the brightness and clarity between those 2 Center Point scopes and the new scope I bought a few weeks ago. What's the new scope? A Nikon ProStaff with BDC reticle and is a 3-9X40. You really don't know what you are missing until you try something of real quality. I understand your feelings. I do.

I have read many posts on here that mention that better optics this and better optics that and that shelling out $300.00 is the least someone would spend etc. I used to think those guys were nuts too. I didn't leap all the way to a $300.00 scope, but I made it to $170 for the Nikon and it has been the best money I have spent on my M1917 build.

That scope will work for you. Just know that there is better out there that really makes a difference.

Mikey!
 
This seems like an excercise in futility. You are going to be awfully disappointed I'm afraid.
 
if that is an older savage 110, it is already a long action and thus will handle the 8x57 mauser fine.

i don't recall if savage employed a magazine block to fit their short action rounds in their long action guns, but they probably did. you will need to unblock the magazine, or replace the entire magazine assembly alltogether, or remove the magazine and use a single shot follower.

in my estimation, the best thing for you to do w/ this gun is to learn some basic gunsmithing on it so you won't have more invested at the gunsmith than you need. start by floating the barrel - especially of you're going to run that bipod. then, research glass bedding, and pillar bedding and try to do that.

can't tell for sure what kind of rings you have, but they appear to be candidates for replacement, as does the base if 1000 yards w/ an 8x57 is the goal. you will definitely want a 20-40 moa base, depending on how much up you have in that scope.

a 2.5# trigger is my ideal trigger for hunting deer in near-zero, gloved-hand conditions. my 1000 yard rifles run 6-oz triggers. learn the mechanics of your trigger, then swap it out.

you really should reconsider some of the options being tossed out (glass, chambering, etc)...

good luck w/ your project...
 
Your wasting time and money

Buy and read some books on what it takes to hit at 1000 yards.
8 MM does not have the BC to do it with a 57 case.
Dorking around with a short action and a 8mm bore is stupid.
 
Dorking around with a short action and a 8mm bore is stupid.

What up with this guy? That's not being very nice!

The 8mm Mauser is not the perfect 1000y plinker, but none the less if the gentleman wants to use this caliber, by all means, please!

Hey, there is not a hard set rule governing the use of a specific caliber for 1000y rifles!

If he does make hits at 1000y with the old German then kuddos to him, well done!
The 8mm will indeed get to 1000y, not as flat and fast as some other rounds, but it will get there!

I say, go for it! dakotasin offers some excellent advice concerning this build.
 
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If you're well and truly interested in building a benchrest gun, perhaps you should consider attending a couple of local benchrest matches and reading the rules of the game to see what is and is not allowable. You should also talk to some serious bench rest competitors to see what they would recommend to someone who's interested in getting into the game.

Otherwise, if you spend time building your "ultimate" benchrest gun with no consideration to how the game is played, you're going to waste a lot of money.
 
Is there a reason for calling my scope an airsoft scope? Its a high quality scope meant for real firearms. I'm not just some dumb kid, I know what I want and I got what I need so far. Even my Dad, a former Marine, thinks the scope is of excellent quality.

I don't want you to think we're being rude about the scope, but it really is about the cheapest and poorest made scope you can buy. It would work fine on a rimfire rifle or something like that. But if you're thinking you can use it with any kind of repeatable results at 1000 yards, you're WAY off. We're not trying to be rude or pass judgement. Most people here, myself included, just want to help. This is a list of scope ratings from SWFA. This is taken directly from their website. Take a look at where your scope falls in the ratings.

The scale below was formed by SWFA sales staff, customer service, pro-staff and owners using personal experience, customer input and facts supplied by the manufacturers. The ranking system is based on the following criteria.



51% Optical Quality - How bright and clear the scope is.

15% Specifications - Field of view, eye relief, weight, adjustment travel, etc.

15% Durability - How do they with stand the test of time.

12% Special Features & Options - Proprietary items (reticles, design, turrets), Zoom ratio.

7% Warranty & Customer Service - How good are they.

0% Value - Bang for your buck. This criteria has been removed due to O.T. member input.


2009 Riflescope Rating Scale



Leica ER, Swarovski Z6, Zeiss Victory


Kahles C - CL & CSX, Premier Reticle, Schmidt & Bender



Kahles KX, U.S. Optics, Swarovski PH & American Lightweight



Bushnell Elite 6500, Leupold VX-7, Nightforce NXS, IOR Valdada, Vortex Razor



Bushnell Elite 4200, Leupold VX-3, Nikon Monarch & Monarch X, Zeiss Conquest


Leupold Mark 4 VX III & VX-L, Meopta, Nikon Monarch Gold & Titanium, Sightron SIII & S2 Big Sky, Vortex Viper



Burris Black Diamond Signature Select XTR & Euro Diamond, Pentax Lightseeker, Trijicon Accupoint, Weaver Grand Slam



Bushnell Elite 3200, Leupold VX-II, Millet Tactical/Buck Gold, Nikko Stirling, Nikon Buckmaster, Sightron SI & SII, Vortex Crossfire & Diamondback, Super Sniper Fixed



Burris Fullfield II & Timberline, Leupold Rifleman & VX-I, Leatherwood, Mueller, Nikon ProStaff, Simmons


Barska, Sightmark, Swift, Truglo

BSA, Tasco, Yukon


ATN, Leapers, NcStar
 
Another option would be simply to buy a rifle that already is set up for what you intend to use it for.

Your best bet.

After ingesting all this over the last couple days, sounds like you may be totally new to this game of long ranger type shooting.

Setting up a 1000y rifle is not for the novice, there are quite a few tricks that must be employed, that I would, here I go again, assume, that you are not privy to...right or wrong? I ask.

The cheapest, quickest and most effective way to break into the 1000y stuff is to learn to shoot first....Now, I'm not saying you don't know how to shoot, but there are some things one needs to polish up on before he starts lobbing lead to 1000y, if you want to hit anything down there.

You know, shooting quarter sized targets at 100y with a 22lr will go a long way in helping the 1000y score!

But, if you insist on the long range centerfire rout, then you might look for a good used rig of ????? flavor. Much cheaper than building one from scratch, your in the game instantly, all the bugs are already worked out of the rifle for you and you can concentrate on that little iddy biddy target way down there!

You don't specify 'what' kind of 1000y rifle your interested in, bench, sniper, palma, F-class, ect......

The rifle you currently have is an excellent rifle for its intended purpose, hunting.

I might keep that rifle for my deer slayer and practice some of the longer shots with it, you do not need a full blown 1000y rifle to learn on, kind like learning to fly from the start in a Lear jet, although I had a friend that did do that, but she had more money than the king on England!

Practice out to 500y with your .243, by the time you get done with all the reading and research on long range work, and by the time you can consistently put em; on target at 500y with that 243, you may have enough cash saved up to get yourself a nice, used 1000y rifle, and I'm talking with some pretty good glass on top....already set up and ready to go!

I don't think anyone here is intentionally trying to be disrespectful concerning the leapers optic you currently enjoy, but truth is, they are not all that, so like I say, plan on saving some cash and start practicing.
 
I am not stupid for what I am planning to do with my rifle, 8mm Mauser will match up fine with my rifle's bolthead (I've already checked, no different than .308 or .243) It's funny that you say I have a crappy scope, but spend 80 bucks on it, I couldn't be happier. I haven't had a single problem with it and just because my wallet isn't as big as yours, you don't need to bash me for having a "low quality, airsoft scope".
The only problem I'm encountering is that eh round will not go into the magazine because it is too long. In other words, it's like fitting a 7.62x63 into a magazine made for 7.62x51.
 
No one is saying you are stupid.

You are trying to build a bench rifle correct? The quality of equipment you currently own ($80 scope, electrical tape enhanced ammo carrier, and an 8mm rifle) will not get the job done reliably, at least not if you care about accuracy.



There is more to choosing an optic than finding one that has no apparent faults,and one that makes you "happy".

This set up will shoot 100 yards no doubt, but the name of the game is choosing where the bullet will impact.

--> be sure to check your bore, it appears to have some rust in it, as wel as the outside of the bbl. Any rust or surface corrosion, especailly near the end of the bbl will dramatically affect your accuracy.
 
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The ammo carrier is not made of electrical tape, it is a ghetto rigged cheek piece for better alignment with the scope. As I have said, I don't have as big of a wallet aas you guys do, and I've done some pretty impressive things with items I find laying around. I once took a deer with a home-made bow I made. So I'll figure out how to shoot 1000 yards accurately with this set-up.

And the barrel on it right now is set up for .243, it's not the barrel I inted to use. However I can't get the discoloration to go away.
 
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