Just got my new (to me) Model 10. Locks up tight, timing is good etc. One thing I noticed though is that the cylinder will rotate backwards (clockwise) in one of the lockup positions (notches) when the cylinder is closed. Only on the one spot. The other 5 locking slots in the cylinder hold tight, but the one allows rotation to the next notch. The notch in question on the cylinder does not look worn in any way. What could cause this? Weak spring?
My New Model 10. Problem???
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armoredman
Member
No idea, contact Smith directly, see what they say.
Cock the hammer slowly, and watch the cylinder when it comes up to this particular chamber. Does it rotate part way and then stop? Then when you cock the hammer again does it rotate past the notch without locking it?
If so I suspect there is a problem between the hand and ratchet tooth, or a weak or mis-assembled cylinder stop spring. The spring is easy and inexpensive to change, but problems with the ratchet/hand fit will require factory attention. Fortunately it will likely be free, including shipping.
If so I suspect there is a problem between the hand and ratchet tooth, or a weak or mis-assembled cylinder stop spring. The spring is easy and inexpensive to change, but problems with the ratchet/hand fit will require factory attention. Fortunately it will likely be free, including shipping.
Old Fuff, it indexes on the cylinder notches just fine (and "locks" into place) every time. It's just that on one of the six cylinder notches, the cylinder can be very easily rotated out of the lock-up position in the clockwise/backwards direction. To the naked eye, the notch in question looks identical to the other five notches. I'm stumped.
Virginian
Member
So, don't turn the cylinder by hand.
I think you have a narrow notch (or one with the edges peened in) or a wide ball on the cylinder stop. The "ball" it the part of the cylinder stop that sticks up through the frame and goes into the notch. Take a toothpick and dig around in the notch to be sure it is absolutely clean. If that doesn't work a gunsmith will probably have to take out the cylinder stop, take one or two swipes of a stone on the side of the ball, and then put the revolver back together.
Another possibility is that the ball isn't dropping into the notch far enough.
If you don't have a qualified gunsmith available, send it back to S&W. Their customer service department will send you a mailing label so that you don't have to pay shipping charges.
Another possibility is that the ball isn't dropping into the notch far enough.
If you don't have a qualified gunsmith available, send it back to S&W. Their customer service department will send you a mailing label so that you don't have to pay shipping charges.
This sounds like an easy to fix problem once it has been properly analyzed. As old Fuff has already said, either the cylinder notch and the stop do not match in width, or the stop does not come up far enough. There is a little raised spot on the cylinder stop that can be shortened to allow the stop to rise more.
This sounds like an easy to fix problem once it has been properly analyzed.
I've seen this happen on J frame S&Ws fortunately when we shot at NYPD's Range at Rodman Neck. Took the smith there about 15 minutes to fix it. Can' remember exactly what was the cause probably one of the things Old Fuff came out with.
I've seen this happen on J frame S&Ws fortunately when we shot at NYPD's Range at Rodman Neck. Took the smith there about 15 minutes to fix it. Can' remember exactly what was the cause probably one of the things Old Fuff came out with.
Fixed It!
Thanks guys for the "mind food" that got me thinking. Once I read Old Fuff, PZGren & GRIZ22's replies, I went to work and found THIS RESOURCE for S&W revolver buffs. On page 2 about halfway down, it explains cylinder stop adjustment. I did that (had to disassemble/file on it twice) and now all's well.
Thanks guys for the "mind food" that got me thinking. Once I read Old Fuff, PZGren & GRIZ22's replies, I went to work and found THIS RESOURCE for S&W revolver buffs. On page 2 about halfway down, it explains cylinder stop adjustment. I did that (had to disassemble/file on it twice) and now all's well.
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Eightball
Member
Awesome.
Now, how's about some pics of your newly-fixed toy?
Now, how's about some pics of your newly-fixed toy?
Eightball, there's a couple of pics in this thread:
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=472347
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=472347
The Lone Haranguer
Member
Virginian said:
If it turns by hand when it is supposed to be locked, there is nothing to prevent it from skipping or reverse-rotating when actually fired.
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