Narrowing down the Grab-n-Go Bag

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i like the inventory list idea... have to use that.


I think the main item that got me thinking about this would be latex gloves. Those... like condoms, can end up tearing if they're too old, but I don't think a box of gloves would have an expiration date on them like the rubbers do.
 
I’m too lazy to post new thoughts on this one, but I’ll throw out some related info from previous posts (some from quite awhile back)...

EDIT: I didn't include the original discussion questions from several OPs; some of the references to specific places, events, or situations don't apply directly to this thread. Nevertheless, the info is valid; sorry if anything seems confusing.

1. RE: Bugging Out and what to carry...

Just some thoughts...

Realizing that everyone’s situation would be different (urban, rural, alone, w/ family, on foot, w/ vehicle, etc.), some things are constant. Sticking to the original post concerning a 72 hour kit, and presuming that your initial location is untenable, you need to carry enough to move to temporary safety and last a few days.

1. You cannot possibly starve in 72 or even 96 hours. Food is a last priority. The exception is during cold weather or winter conditions when something with high sugar/fat content becomes important to stave off hypothermia.

2. Laying doggo (in a hide site), you can get by for 72 hours on 2 quarts/liters per day (even during hot weather). If you have to do foot movement, you can still get by on 3 quarts. I normally carry 4 quarts in a patrol rucksack and no more than 6 qts (1.5 gallons) for any reason except deployment into a completely arid or desert environment. If "bugging out", I'd plan on 1 liquid gallon w/ an extra empty bladder (like a surplus military 5 qt canteen) to take advantage of water found enroute. On two quarts per day, you will get a little dehydrated (pissing yellow) but be OK. If during hot weather, move only at night. Lay up in the shade and sleep during the day.

For planning purposes, water weighs 2.2 lbs per qt / 8.8 lbs per gallon without counting the container. At the least, you need some kind of water purification (iodine, bleach, MicroPur tabs, etc.). If you can carry a backpacking water filter plus one of the above water disinfectants, you will be set. Chemical taste is the very least of your problems in a survival situation and can always be rectified by tossing in some powdered kool-aid or Gatorade. Although you could drink ditch water for 72 hours to avoid dying of thirst, developing dysentery or Giardia is going to bring further effective movement to halt (which would be unfortunate if problems last longer than originally anticipated).

3. Short of immediate killers (flood, forest/grass fire, armed and hostile people, zombies, etc.), what will kill you quickest is exposure to high or low temperatures (hyper/hypothermia). If you bugout during a snow storm without clothing and shelter, you are done. If you attempt to daylight road march in 98 degrees / 90 percent humidity, you are done. Your kit should provide appropriate seasonal clothing and some kind of minimal shelter that allows you to erect concealable shade awning and protect you from precipitation. I'd suggest a standard military poncho with small OD bungee cords for hasty setup. A simple tarp shelter, erected low to ground, will keep you cool (or dry) and allow good 360 visibility for approaching trouble. Add in a 3/4 ground sleeping pad and you have a veritable rancho deluxe. In summer, add mosquito headnet, some thin gloves, and insect repellant. In cool weather, add light sleeping bag, bivy sack, mittens, and warm hat.

4. A good topo map of your daily environment should be in your kit. Also a compass and (ideally) a small GPS. You may know the way to Grandma's House or the Pre-stocked Survival Retreat. The question becomes one of taking a clandestine route that avoids the 1,000,000+ other folks headed in the same direction and occupying the obvious water holes (lakes, ponds, creeks, river banks).

5. Whatever your load out, the term "bug out" bag implies that you can carry it easily for many miles and that you can RUN with it for at least several hundred yards. If it's heavier than that, you are humping a ruck; you are hiking at slow walking speed with a heavily loaded backpack.

6. When planning movement, forget roads, freeways, pedestrian paths, river banks, valley floors, and ridgeline trails. Everyone else will be there as well (along with associated problems and stiff competition for resources). Plan a slow and deliberate route, moving during hours of darkness. A planning figure of 10-12 miles per night would be excellent even for a non-lethal and non-emergency environment. If some folks are hunting other folks and people "bugging-in" are armed and suspicious, you would be doing well to make 6-8 miles in an evening (after detours to avoid confrontations, barking dogs, checkpoints, mobs, refugee encampments, etc.).

7. Weapons? Yeah...whatever. I'd bring a long paperback book worth re-reading while you occupy your daylight patrol base.

8. Assuming that trouble is temporary, all you NEED to be able to do is to avoid people, move to a concealed hole-up site, protect yourself from the elements, and rest/read for 72 hours. This location could be in some thickets, in a swamp, in an out of the way office utility room, in an attic, on a forested and steep hillside...the options are endless.

For temporary social collapse, the above is all pretty much a combination of basic Boy Scout, Backpacking, and Infantry Patrolling skill.

If you are just fleeing hurricane Katrina, toss the BoB in your car, don't forget cash & plastic, leave early, and visit some inland Waffle House until all the drama is over. Don't forget the paperback.

2. RE: Vehicle Bug Out or Go Kit

You are obviously trying to be prepared for a wide range of contingencies (which is good; the vehicle allows you to carry more).

I'd suggest that the same categories which apply to any survival kit (pocket, belt, pack, rucksack, home, etc.) also apply to an auto kit:

Shelter
Insulation
Water
Fire
Navigation
Signals
Food
Tools
First Aid
Communications
Weapons
Light

You have water but need a way to purify or filter more. Add portable water filter/purifier...or... small bottle of pure liquid bleach (unscented), iodine crystals, or backpacking purification tablets (or filter AND chemical ); also add a collapsible water bladder or additional canteen

You have socks, hat, & gloves, but no weather protection. Add seasonal waterproof jacket or parka, sweater or fleece jacket, cargo pants or shorts , and a good pair of light hiking boots (broken-in). Weather can kill you quicker than nuclear fallout during any season. Apologies if you plan on already wearing what you need in Wisconsin , but it's always good to have an extra DRY set in the car.

Add a compass and a detailed road map of your area/state (GPS if you must, but have a compass)

Add a fire kit (magnesium/flint, lighter, matches, something)

Add an LED headlamp (the single most useful item you can have for darkness) with some extra batteries; don't leave the batteries out in extreme cold all winter long.

Add a poncho or small tarp in order to rig a shelter from rain or sun or cover a shattered auto windscreen or car window; use parachute cord or bungis to fasten grommets to auto, trees, poles, etc.

Add a small backpack, climbing pack, or 3-day assault pack to carry some of this stuff (if you have to abandon the vehicle)

Add sunscreen & and extra pair of cheap sunglasses.

Add an inexpensive pair of clear goggles (ski, paintball, etc) for when you have to drive with a shattered windscreen; also good for protecting eyes while moving through thick woods, vines, or vegetation at night (after abandoning auto).

Add a whistle and a signal mirror; practice with each.

Add a small long-burning emergency candle. This can keep interior temp of a dead auto above freezing while you wait for help.

Add a sleeping bag. WalMart sells 0 degree and 20 degree rated bags for next to nuthin (on sale $30 - $50).

You already have a good kit, but there is always room for improvement.

3. Re: Cheap Sleeping Bags...

I agree with every point that wheelgunslinger made, but would like to add caveats concerning earlier advice about "WalMart" bags:

1. Not everyone can afford to lay out a lot more money for premium bags.

2. Some folks might need to lay in multiple bags (for multiple passengers or
family members). Again...price may be very important to some folks.

3. Not everyone is going to feel comfortable leaving high-end backpacking gear in their car (theft worries) or out of proper storage concerns (as heelgunslinger sagely mentioned). My attitude is that a KelTec P32 always in your pocket beats the Wilson 1911 you left at home.

4. The block store models are semi-disposable "camping" bags vice true mountaineering, ski touring, or backpacking equipment. They are way heavier than premium models and will not sustain through hard outdoor use, but...they are ideal for car camping, are synthetic, are INEXPENSIVE, and will get the job done.

The trick is to buy the warmest rating available. The zero or twenty degree rated mummy bags (usually made in China) are not actually to be trusted at zero degrees on an Alpine ski tour, but they will suffice inside an automobile or shelter. The warm weather flannel or "summer" bags sold in the same sporting goods aisles are to be avoided like the plague; they are simply toys for kids to camp in the backyard on a warm evening.

5. Some of the generic cold weather versions sold (e.g., Coleman) actually work pretty well. I own six or seven bags (high-end modular synthetic systems and two very nice premium down bags). I keep a Coleman 0 Degree F in the back of the car...I've used it down to the teens...it works fine. I'd never take it in place of my better bags for a pre-planned ski tour or winter road trip through the mountains, but it will do the job if my vehicle gets stuck in a snow drift or I make an unplanned over-night white-out induced halt. I don't worry about any special care or storage and regard that bag the same way I do my jumper cables...always there in case of need...and better than a space blanket in the glove compartment. If it ever disappears or becomes unserviceable, I'd not bat an eye, but simply buy another.

6. Cheap bags are also useful for warming/covering victims at the scene of an auto accident. I'm going to simply toss the bloody bag after EMS gets done or let them take it with the victim. No big financial loss and it might save a life. That might sound callous, but if you are the drunk who just caused the accident, I'm less inclined to donate my expensive Marmot, North Face, or Wiggy to save your inconsiderate and dumb ass...

The above are just some points I should have explained better on my first post...

Wheelgunslinger also mentioned bivy-sacks...another excellent idea. I recommend one for any bag (even synthetics) and this is an item where you aren't going to be able to skimp. Get a good one (Goretex or comparable fabric).

Sleeping pads should also accompany your sleeping bag if you have the room. Some folks like the more expensive (and comfortable) self-inflating open-cell styles (e.g.,Therma Rest), but I like simple closed-cell foam pads best. Nothing to possibly go wrong...just a piece of hard foam that will never leak.

I also keep a small backpacker's pillow (same size as an airline pillow) in my car. If you've ever had to sleep in a car, you'll understand why.

4. RE: Hurricane Survival / Recovery Items:

Small case of topical insect spray or pump bottles (Cutters Deep Woods Off); many skeeters in days/weeks after storm.

Battery powered LED flashlights, headlamps, or mini-lanterns (one per person) w/ extra batteries; self explanatory.

NOLS battery powered weather radio (Radio Shack); so you can track events if travelling or if power/generator fails.

Another 55 gallon water container; too much ain't enough.

A belt mountable canteen or Camelback per person.

An aluminum canteen cup or Sierra cup per person.

One metal Spork per person.

A big pot for boiling water over an open fire.

Several more gallons of unscented bleach; disinfectant, water purification, hand washing, killing micro-bugs in standing water or open sewage.

Nailgun (and nails); for prep work and for hasty repairs.

Petfood (if you have any pets) sealed in clean plastic paint pails; self explanatory.

Goggles for everyone (ski, paintball, or tactical); for time of driving rain and flying debris (if you have to be outside).

10-12 ft lengths (per person) of 1" tubular nylon sling (can be purchased off the spool at Lowes/hardware store/climbing store) w/ a carabiner, bowline tied to one end of each length; for use as around-the-waist safety lines for climbing on roof, crossing flooded spots, lashing, tiedowns, tow straps, etc.; cheap, a thousand-in-one uses, and much lighter and easier to carry than rope. Can be worn as doubled belt or stowed in a cargo pocket in clothing.

Lifejacket/Flotation device per person (and animal) w/ cheap waterproof distress light

Extra cell phone / FRS radios (Walmart; one for each person)

Baby Wipes & extra TP (several containers); hygiene and cleanliness; evacuation route rest stops will dry up, stores will be closed or out of supply.

Infant meds, formula, diapers, etc. (if applicable)

Waterproof and portable document carrier w/ critical personal papers (especially birth certificates, insurance policies, checkbook, deeds/titles, voter registration, copies of photo IDs, etc. Whatever you would need to establish Who you are, What property you own, and Residency/Eligibility for offered assistance (whether rebuilding w/ FEMA help or relocating to another state).

If you anticipate keeping watch over property after the storm passes, you will need to do it in shifts. Get a cheap "tactical" vest with pockets or pouches that will hold FRS radio, tactical light, ammo, leatherman/pocket knife, maybe holstered handgun, first aid dressings, snack items, bug spray, rainjacket or poncho. Makes it easy to pass full guard duty equipment load to the next person. Nothing super expensive; cheap light mesh vests are sold online (e.g., Brigade Quartermaster) for around $40-50. Even a fishing or hunting vest would be useful.

Likewise a sturdy gun belt and holster for whatever handguns might need to be carried on your person while repairing/guarding property; again w/ light, ammo, field dressing, pocket knife. You will need your hands and pocket carry or concealed holsters can get cumbersome when you start cutting downed trees , pushing stuck vehicles, conducting structural repairs, etc.

Think about long duration water supplies carefully. What if your local utility or well does not come back up for 30 days or more? Bleach, filters, and big containers might become important. A vinyl childs pool erected after storm could be used to catch rainwater and serve as a basin for water you can procure.

Some of these things would have no use if you will not have high water. Some will be irrelevant if your house and possessions remain in good order. Some will only be of use if you must flee. Some will be very useful after the storm has gone. I think a lot of folks tend to concentrate on the hunkering down or bugging out aspect of preparations; the aftermath can also be prepared for (like previous posters' suggestions about lumber, tarps, etc.).

PS: Some instant coffee, a small supply of your favorite adult beverage, and some cigars...


Contd...
 
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5. RE: Bug Out Firearm / Ammunition Load

In response to:
..."if you had to leave your home and travel somewhere for whatever reason how much ammo and arms would be too much to carry on just your person?" No car, no boat, just walking it...so it's all on your own steam.

I would want a pistol, a long gun, and a back up pistol. But I don't know what I'd choose between a rifle or shotgun if I could only take one with me. Which would you all take?

How many mags or reloads for a long gun and a pistol would be too much...considering space in your pack for food/other supplies? How important would ammo and guns even become?

Question #1. It depends on your future prospects for the given situation. If you are moving to a known sanctuary or safe area (where civilization is still up & running), your requirements are short term (i.e., as long as it takes you to get there). If you are planning for a long-term foraging/hunting lifestyle (a "Postman" post-nuclear warfare environment), your plan will require a modified loadout. For the first scenario, a long gun, handgun, and a moderate load of ammo would be enough. For the second, you would need to weigh (pun intended) the practicality of humping an additional .22 long rifle and/or shotgun. These weapon types would be for hunting. If I were going to actually cut into my ruck weight by adding a second long gun, it would be a lightweight .22 rifle (AR-7, Marlin Papoose, etc. along with a 500 rd brick or two of .22 LR ammo). Unless you are SURE of your rucking capabilities (meaning that you have current practice with your planned weight & distance), plan to go with no more than 50-60 lbs (total weight of everything on your body). You will be doing well to make 15 miles a day in a SHTF situation.

Question #2. RIFLE. You can only handle one long gun if a fight erupts. Make sure it's one which is effective at all practical ranges. You need a centerfire, medium caliber, repeating rifle (.223, 5.56, 7.62 x 39, .308, 7.62 x 54, 7.62 x 51, 30-30, .270, etc.). The rifle wins against the shotgun. It isn't about the relative merits of stopping power or appropriateness for limited tactical situations. It's about which type of weapon will give you the best performance over an entire spectrum of possible events. You can carry far more rifle rounds than shotgun shells. A rifle gives you more range, penetration, and accuracy than a shotgun. If your priority is small game hunting or very close range defensive use, a shotgun is great. For everything else (and even for those two scenarios) a rifle is the tool of choice.

Question #3. The rifle is for everything. The pistol is for "Oh sh*t". In the 5.56 caliber realm, 300 rds is about right (10 x 30 rd mags). You won't have frag grenades, claymore mines, C-4, AT-4s, LAWs, additional 7.62 machinegun ammo, smoke grenades, night vision goggles, tactical radios, etc.). Thus, you can add some additional rifle ammo IF your rucksack load of food, water, shelter, and clothing allows. If your ruck is light enough, toss in another 90-180 rds worth of pre-loaded magazines.

In 7.62/.30 caliber realm, about half of what you would carry in 5.56 will be about right...maybe a little more (160 rds).

In .22 Long Rifle: If the rifle is your primary long gun, get the best quality repeater you can afford and carry 1000 rds. If it is secondary (takedown rifle stowed on pack) carry a lesser amount of ammo (500 rds).

Ammo for your pistol should be around 3-4 ready magazines (including the one in the weapon)

In any event, I wouldn't plan on carrying more than 2 x 50 rd boxes worth of pistol ammo. One of these would be pre-loaded in your mags. The extra 50 round box would go in the rucksack or backpack. If need be (due to weight considerations), carry 4 loaded mags and call it a day.

For a revolver, carry a loaded cylinder, 3 x speedloaders, and an extra box of 50 rds. If weight is a concern, lose the extra 50 rds.

If you are going to pack a .22 pistol in your ruck (for hunting) one or two 500 round bricks should see you thru at least the next winter...

The combat caliber pistol is for self defense only, not food procurement. You are unlikely to need a bazzillion rounds of handgun ammunition and if you think that you might...you need more rifle ammo instead.

In Afghanistan (the remote and far from immediate resupply/rescue parts of Afghanistan), I carried 430 rds of 5.56 (13 x 30 rd mags & 2 x 20 rd full tracer mags) and 45 rds of 9mm. Of course, I also had frags...and friends with frags (and automatic rifles and machineguns ).

Your main effort in SHTF movement should be to get to where you need to go, in one piece, and with no drama. You should move like a rabbit avoiding hawks... not a male pit bull looking for a dog fight.

Water weighs 8.8 lbs per gallon. You will need 3 qts per day while on the move (more in summer). Your water load and a good purifier or filter kit is probably more vital than a handgun. Likewise with regards to that expensive 2 lb custom fighting knife...

I'll summarize using my version of a reasonable weapons load (which allows you to still carry all the other shiznit you need):

1 x 5.56 semi-auto w/ 300 rds [about 7-8lbs of rifle & 5 lbs of ammo]
1 x loaded and reliable combat caliber handgun w/ 3 x reloads [3-4 lbs pistol & ammo combined]
1 x lightweight adjustable sight .22 LR handgun w/ 500 rds [3 lbs pistol and ammo combined]

Total weapon/ammo weight for 3 month trek to grandma's house through hordes of zombies: 20 lbs maximum

6. RE: General Survival Food / Water Considerations (written immediately Post-Katrina, but with emphasis on Winter Conditions)

Some Stream of Unconciousness Thoughts:

1. The old military C-rations & modern MREs always include packets of powdered "kool-aid" type drink mix. They allow you to drink otherwise unpalatable water you have just filtered/purified from some rice paddy, stream, seep hole, or puddle by masking the taste of both the nasty water and whatever chemicals you have used to sterilize it. They also provide vitamin C. Just add enough for flavor (as opposed to adding an entire packet to a single cup or canteen). You can stretch the powder out.

2. For below freezing cold weather, Crisco shortening sticks are great source of calories & fat. Use to fry anything (if possible) or just add to cookpot (soups, stews, etc.). They are easy to carry, require no refridgeration, and can be stored forever. Also available with butter flavoring already added. Have used with great success in extreme winter environments (snow mobile expeditions in Rockies & above Arctic Circle). Canadian Army Inuit Scouts carry frozen fish & Crisco along with a deep fryer or deep pot/pan. Makes a hot, greasy, high calorie, high fat, high protein winter meal...mmmm...GOOD. Also corn dogs, hush puppies, hashbrown patties, frozen chicken, etc. You can also use Crisco sticks during warmer weather although it could get a little messy without a ziplock bag.

3. Winter temperatures allow you to carry just about anything that you would ordinarily stock in your freezer or fridge...

4. I habitually carry butter during cold weather...think high fat/calories and add it to all food.

5. Semi-hard / hard cheese, dried fruit, trail mix, nuts, dried / cured sausage (pepperoni, landjager, summer sausage), tinned meat (spam, tuna, corned beef, etc.), and hard crust bread or crackers will travel well, even during warm weather. They require no fire or stove, deliver all the nutrients you need, and provide lots of calories. This is standard fare for backpacking, Alpine ski touring, and climbing. It's also really handy for when you need to conserve fuel or can't light a fire due to a desire to keep a low profile.

6. Instant mashed potatos, rice, cheese macaroni, hominy, pasta, cous-cous, oatmeal, grits, or cream-of-wheat are bombproof, lightweight, and simple to prepare (even with cold water). Premix with seasonings, bacon bits, brown sugar, or salt and place in ziplock freezer bags. Add some butter, margarine, or crisco and you are good to go. Lots of carbs (and fat if you have the butter or shortening). In a pinch you can eat the stuff dry and wash it down with some water. Every supermarket in the land carries pre-packaged meals in some sort of flavor combination you can grow to love. In survival situations, add any food you've got to a batch of instant starch... it's all about the Hamburger Helper.

7. For SHTF, with regards to canned or retort pouch meats, always choose foods packed in oil vs. water (i.e., sardines or tuna in oil or greasy corned beef). FAT is your FRIEND. This is no time to worry about breaking your diet. Moving with a rucksack during cold weather can require an easy 4000 calories per day, especially when being chased by zombies...

8. Washboard abs are nice, but love-handles rule. 2% body fat is UNDESIREABLE in a survival situation. Slightly fat folks handle stress, cold, and lack of food better than willowy folks (especially in winter conditions). Bears and Humans are omnivores who are designed by nature to eat whatever is available whenever it is available...and store the excess as fat (for hard times). THE EASIEST WAY TO CARRY SURVIVAL FOOD IS INSIDE YOUR SKINSUIT. BTW, this also applies to water. Hydrate at every opportunity; fill your canteens, jugs, or camelback...but also drink your fill when you have water sources available.

9. A plastic bottle of One-A-Day multi-vitamins is light weight, worth more than it's weight in gold, and is the cheapest long term dietary insurance policy you can carry. One 100-tab bottle will easily see you through 3+ months of uncertainty. Vitamins will supplement what may soon be a long-term crappy diet, help you to ward off sickness, maintain night vision, and enhance your body's ability to recover/heal from physical exertion and injury.

10. If you plan on cooking anything, the best means (nutritionally) is to stew your food. Every bit of dripping, cook water, and juice is retained and consumed (along with calories that would be cooked out over an open roasting flame). Rinse your cookware with clean water and then drink that. Naturally, don't stick dirty hands into your rinse water.

11. My basic military cook set for the last 30 years has consisted of an aluminum GI canteen cup and a plastic spoon. That's all you actually need.
If you are carrying GI 1-qt canteens (2 are recommended), carry a second canteen cup. Your canteens will nest inside the cups and take up little room. One cup is for heating water and the other is for food. After heating water and adding to chow, refill the water-heating cup and continue to heat more water. I haven't used a steel mess kit since Basic Training. Every ounce counts if you have to carry it on your back. The important thing is to always have some sort of container that can accept food if you are fortunate enough to stumble into a situation where someone else is offering the grub.

12. For winter use, add a deep, stainless steel, backpacker type cookpot with lockable lid and folding handle. It should be at least 2-qt sized (you will need a lot of hot water and the ability to melt snow over a fire). It can also be used to store a small stove, food, or anything else that needs protection from impact.

13. An all stainless steel thermos bottle is priceless for cold weather use. It will weigh more than a comparable canteen but will allow you to prepare hot boiling water once per day, travel, and have the capability to prepare a hot meal (dried foods in #6 above) in about 2 minutes when the sun goes down. A 2-qt capacity thermos works best. The smaller ones don't carry enough water. An all-steel thermos can be placed on top of stove or wood fire to reheat contents or even to thaw frozen contents. No plastic covers or outer liners! Thermos bottles with the glass inner liner will break...make sure that the bottle uses a steel liner. BTW, old surplus metal canteens work great in winter due to their ability to be placed directly on stove/flame but will not insulate water that you have previously heated for later use.

14. Beans & Rice: Cooked together, they offer a complete protein (substitute for meat) and lots of carbohydrates. Add oil, butter, or crisco for fat.

15. Always keep something exotic stashed away for the appropriate SHTF moment. Sometimes a dose of surreality is all it takes to pick up the spirits of your party. "Hey folks, we may be cold, but at least it's raining...tinned truffles in wine sauce anyone?".

16. Never forget salt. Keep it in a waterproof container.

17. Never forget spices (pepper, garlic, etc.)

18. Tobasco sauce will make a catfish milkshake taste good...

19. Even if caught up in a rapidly unfolding disaster, don't overlook what you may already have in your larder. Potatos & Onions (already wrapped in Mother Nature's skin) should be tossed into your pack or vehicle (if you have the room). Put 'em on a sharp stick over a flame or boil. See # 16 above.

20. HONEY is one of the best survival foods extant. It is a readily digestible simple sugar for quick energy and provides an insanely high level of calories for when your body needs energy RIGHT NOW. Glucose tablets (like diabetics use) are also a good thing when your ass is dragging.

21. Peanut butter is high fat, some protein, and provides a lot of calories.

21. Instant coffee, cocoa, or tea can make all the difference under almost any bad circumstances.

22. Twinkies are an intrusion from a separate space/time continuum. If you are dead and buried with a Twinky, it will still be edible several years later. Have your friends geo-cache your burial site for future consideration...

23. Dehydrated vs. wet food is always a conundrum. Weight vs. availability of water. If you have a vehicle for your bugout or SHTF, carry the wet goods in the vehicle. Carry more of the dry stuff and high-octane energy food in your backpack. If the weight problem comes down to more water or more food...choose water.

24. Dried baby formula can be added to almost any other foodstuff to increase nutrition (especially for ill elderly and children). If you are bugging out with small ones, stock up on pre-mixed liquid formula and some sort of electrolyte (like Pedia-lite)

25. MREs are the simplest and most proven SHTF food you can easily store and carry. Big-brained folks in military labs earned big paychecks coming up with these. They are self contained, long lasting, require no water, and are designed to keep Joe on the go under almost all conditions. The mistake most people make is thinking that 3 MREs equals one day's food. Plan on two stripped-down MREs per person, per day. If you can carry complete cases in your vehicle you are golden. But, if you plan on carrying on your back, open every pouch (by carefully slicing open one end) and dump everything on the floor. Toss everything that you don't actually like, need, or plan to use. Repack the things you want (mixing/matching/adding) into the bags. Feel free to augment the factory meals with an added ziplock bag full of instant oatmeal, rice, etc.. This will save humping useless weight. Roll-fold one end of an opened bag (squeezing out as much air as possible) and seal with duct tape. In the military, this is called field stripping an MRE. You will lose some of the storage longevity provided by the outer pouch factory seal but increase your ability to carry more days of food.

If you even remotely entertain the notion of using your MREs during cold weather, retain the chemical heater elements. Practice using the heaters once or twice before a SHTF situation develops.

Weigh each bag before putting away. Figure out (by weight) how much food you need per day. Every ounce counts against mobility. Every calorie counts for survival. The implied task is to do this long before you have a desperate need. You should be able to reach for a modified pouch and know that everything you need for one meal is right there (minus water).

26. You've got to mesh your food load against your bug-out/evacuation plan intentions. If you have no experience at backpacking, pick-up a book at Barnes & Noble for good advice concerning caloric intake requirements, food menus, weight vs. packaging ideas. This goes along with preparedness skills pertaining to SHTF (physical fitness, shelter making, first aid, etc.). Have a plan for how much food you can reasonably carry to support how long/far you intend to travel. You're better off with candy bars and Kraft Macaroni that you are comfortable with than some exotic emergency meal you've never seen, prepared, or tasted.

27. Always keep something in reserve. In a buttpack, pocket, or belt pouch. This is your emergency meal; something that will give that last shot of fuel to get you through the snow storm, across the swamp, or over the mountaintop. It's your nutritional last-best-move and only to be used for last resort...not as a handy snack. High calorie, high fat, high sugar (pemmican, honey, chocolate bars, whatever). You'll reap a psychological comfort just knowing that it is there, even if you never have to crack it open.

28. Walk through your local supermarket. Take a look at the hundreds of items offered and purchase samples of things you don't ordinarily eat. Prepare them at home using the gear you plan on having for your SHTF situation. Almost anything dry can be repackaged (in smaller or larger portions) using freezer bags, soft plastic bottles, or food vacuum sealers. You can essentially manufacture your own version of Mountainhouse freeze-dried meals right off your supermarket shelves. Buy things in bulk (like canned freeze-dried miniature shrimp, powdered egg prefect, or dried meat). See what items certain cafeterias and resaraunts purchase for long term storage.
You'll eventually come up with a menu that you can afford to buy, carry, and live off of.

29. Somewhere in New Orleans is a guy on a roof eating a soggy Twinkie that floated by. Don't be that guy.

30. My heartfelt sympathy goes out to every suffering American along the Gulf Coast. I'm sorry it has taken this event to revitalize BOB/SHTF discussion on this and other similar threads. Hopefully we can all glean useful knowledge for the inevitable next time...

Hope this helps...
 
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Toothbrush, diplomas, birth certificates? LOL. Are you preparing for a job interview?

How are you going to carry around a tent in a tornado or hurricaine?

Binoculars? For what? Bird watching?

All this stuff is fine to grab if you have warning of the catastrophy, it will just be like preparing for a camping trip. If thats your exit strategy, buy a toy hauler to tow with your rig (that what my cousin used to evacuate his family during the fires here last year and it worked out well for him). But if something like an earthquake, tsunami, or hurricaine, you're only going to bring articles to get you out of the danger zone. Think a solid, lightweight framed backpacking rig with 25,000 calories worth of non perishable food (energy bars, MREs, dried fruit, etc), a water filter, salt tabs, iodine, hydro bladder plus a hard cantine or bottle, quick-dry clothing (no cotton or denim), waterproof jacket and pants, hat, some good boots, a revolver, a simple knife, hatchet, fold up shovel, and a lighter. Leave your underwear, sunscreen, swiss army knife with 1001 useless gadgets, and feminine products at home.

Lastly, know your surroundings, average temperatures in particular canyons, valleys, mountains, and where the best place for shelter is.

Personally I'm a mountain biker in socal, so my go bag will include a full suspension mountain bike if the roads are blocked. I know every square foot of terrain for 50 miles in each direction. I know the easiest and quickest routes for passing over mountain ranges and where water is. I can rig gear onto my bike and make upwards of 50-100 miles per day depending on the terrain so long as I have water and enough calories. No gas required!

PS Sorry for the thread necromancy...
 
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TwoNiner
Binoculars? For what? Bird watching?
Maybe.

On the other hand, should you be heading along your roads, valleys or canyons and spot someone or something else in your path it is much better to discern as much as possible from a good distance first.

And speaking of canyons, valleys - and mountains etc; if you find your planned route blocked by trouble, or are navigating in an unfamiliar area, a good binocular can sometimes save you time, effort, blood and perhaps even tears. It is an invaluable orienteering tool, along with a good compass and maps.

It does not have to be a binocular; it can be a good monocular or compact spotting scope. My current preference is a Minox 6.5x32; light, compact, wide field of view. A compact Kowa 20x50 scope brings suspect distance objects or obstacles up close.
 
Since this has gotten into truck-load lists, I'll offer a thought.
You can break your list and equipment down into levels or stages.

First, motor vehicle, contains everything, including a bicycle. Drive until something stops you from driving. At that point, you can choose to keep moving or use the vehicle as a base (shelter, equipment storage). You can range from there to scout or hunt.

Second stage, bicycle. If you choose to keep moving, the bicycle can carry a lot more than you can without it, even when you have to get off and walk it. Make the bike bombproof -- flat-proof tires (see "Greentyre"), single-speed transmission, molded plastic wheels (think spoke breakage, which will stop you at least temporarily), sealed bearings. Add all the baskets it will take. Learn and practice bike mechanics and carry repair tools.

Third stage is on foot, if something stops your bike. That would be pretty extreme, actually.

Group your gear with this in mind; each change of stage will require you to leave some stuff behind. For instance, a comfortable tent with cook-fly will go on the bike, but may be too much extra on your back, so have some minimal shelter provision in your backpack.

Think, plan, and rehearse.
 
..."if you had to leave your home and travel somewhere for whatever reason how much ammo and arms would be too much to carry on just your person?" No car, no boat, just walking it...so it's all on your own steam.

I would want a pistol, a long gun, and a back up pistol. But I don't know what I'd choose between a rifle or shotgun if I could only take one with me. Which would you all take?

This is what a Sneaky Rifle Fighting Bag is for:

http://www.onesourcetactical.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1199

There's room for 4 rifle magazines, 2 spare handgun magazines, flashlight, knife, sharpener, trauma kit, and a backup handgun.

Don't mix fighting stuff with survival stuff, keeping it in different bags (one grab n' go bag, ammo bag nearby), the Sneaky Bag is perfect for this.
 
Sorry Ed, I only post about it in bug out bag or tactical vest related threads. I like mine quite a bit, and I never would have known about it if a helpful forum member hadn't recommended it to me.

At least it's not a tactical vest...
 
As may be. You started a thread about it, you've posted it in other people's threads... and as a result I will never buy one.
 
my survival kit
Dog, 15 cans of dog food(small size)
45, 8+1 in the gun, 3 other mags full, 2 on the belt 1 in back pocket. 100 rounds placed on the bottom of the bag specifically for it.
Passport, citizenship certificate, deed, and other important papers in a double ziplocked bag.
Pur water filter, the one that has a pitcher to filter it into, but I would only take the top portion to fill with water, and plastic cups(2-3) to just pour them in when needed. This saves a ridiculous amount of space/weight to you and your party. And it is easy to pack. +2 filters just in case.
1 serrated knife, 1 multi use knife.
Hammer, sharp tanto(12 inch blade sheathed) on my hip
pills if needed
first aid kit with burn gel and syringes for anyone who needs them. Bottle of advil/tylenol.
Sunglasses, contacts+solution, hat, bug spray.
1 case of matches in a ziplock bag(20 boxes? maybe more)
2 pairs pants, 3 pairs socks, 3 shirts, 3 pairs boxers, mechanic gloves, LED flashlight/laser pointer
2 cell phones charged put in ziplock bag+cell phone that I am using charged on my person.
compact fishing kit
forgot iodine, hydrogen peroxide, and kosher salt
Is this too much?
 
Condoms are not needed to keep the barrel clear.

In fact, it's the difficult way. Go with the USMC way--use duct tape. I use mil-spec OD green tape.

You do not need to remove the tape to fire. The air in the barrel ahead of the bullet will cause the tape to rip off.
 
I don't see the point of a survival kit. Maybe someone could explain to me in what type of situation something like that would actually be necessary (other than a spur-of-the-moment camping trip).
 
DHJenkins said:
I don't see the point of a survival kit.


????

I don't understand the question or your line of thinking. Perhaps you can define for us what you think a survival kit is and what it's purpose would be?
 
Great ideas on items, but do people really pack their diplomas and other important documents in a bag? Or do you get duplicates?
 
I don't understand the question or your line of thinking. Perhaps you can define for us what you think a survival kit is and what it's purpose would be?

You can't answer my question with my own question. A survival kit is whatever the OP posted as his survival kit, and my question is pretty much as I asked it - "what type of situation [is] something like that ... actually ... necessary?"
 
The OP's answer, from the original post:

The most likely uses of a grab-n-go bag or a "bug out bag" are house fires, flooding, and other natural disasters. Far less likely but more firearm conducive reasons include escaping inevitable violence such as gangs and looters, offesive invasion, aerial attack with conventional, bio/chemical, or nuclear weapons, or an anarchal breakdown of social order.
 
Disconnect

DHJ, if you simply read the OP and then posted your response, you've missed a whole discussion of "why" a kit of any sort is needed.

If you've read the whole thread, and managed to miss the "natural disasters" motive and the mention of other mishaps, then, well, all I can suggest is a little more reading.

I have a kit of sorts in every one of my cars.

I live in North Idaho.

The Idaho Driver's Manual actually has a list of stuff they recommend you keep in your vehicle -- including a knife.

I have had some sort of kit in my vehicle for the last twelve years. I didn't call it a kit, and the words "bug out" had not yet entered my vocabulary. I lived in places where a car breakdown can kill you, so it just seemed prudent to have some basic necessities in my car.

With the additional layer of a rotten economy that could lead to pockets of localized civil unrest, I've added a few other things.

You may recall that, in September 2001, a new term was added to our preparedness lexicon: "failure of imagination."

I may not be prepared for everything I can imagine, but I can imagine enough plausible and probable -- and even improbable -- events for which a lack of preparedness could hurt bad.

Some people don't plan against the day their home catches fire. When the smoke alarm wakes them up at oh-dark-thirty, their bad day is worse than it needs to be. Still others don't even have the smoke alarm. Their bad day can be a terminal event.

I know guys who drive around without a spare tire and figure that, if they have a flat, they'll just call one of their friends. That's a seriously bad plan on its face, but they do it anyway.

It doesn't take much imagination to figure out that there are unlikely things which, when they DO happen, will be catastrophic if there's no planning or preparation.

Why do we CCW? Because everyone we know gets mugged? No. We do it because, when it comes to self defense, it's not the ODDS, but the STAKES that matter.

So, every few months, I pull out one of my kits, look through it, and figure out what things I don't need and what my new knowledge -- or imagination -- informs me I might need instead.

Wandering a little here . . .

When I was much younger, everything I owned would fit into a pair of large duffel bags.

I could be ready to go, literally anywhere in the world, in under two hours, and that included briefing, shave & shower, fresh clothes, packing, and jumping on the bus.

That hasn't been true for me in more than 35 years.

About ten years ago, when we moved to Arizona, we filled a 26-foot truck and two cars with our worldly goods -- and that was after divesting ourselves of as much stuff as we could in less than two weeks.

Our last two moves have required even more truck space.

I've taken note of this and found it to be an undesirable development.

I chafe under the knowledge of the mobility I've lost with the acquisition of more stuff.

One of my "back of the mind" projects currently is assessing what I can live without, what things I don't care about, what things are dear to me, what things I must have to function.

I'm out of practice at this.

Compartmentalizing certain things into "kits" in a layered sort of way helps with assessing importance.

I may never get back to the mobility of my youth, but I will attain more than I have now.

Unfortunately, my kids have grown up surrounded by anything they ever needed, secure in the knowledge that, if anything broke or was lost or was spoiled, all you had to do was run to the store.

They never learned, as I did in my youth, to camp outdoors with mostly nothing, and make a fire and shelter from mostly nothing, and make meals from mostly nothing.

I feel I've handicapped them and, looking back, this is possibly my greatest regret.

My parents were children of the Great Depression. We wasted nothing, conserved everything, and lived sparingly. Our vacations were always of the "two weeks away from civilization" kind.

We were, as a family, always mobile, even when we lived on acreage. They knew exactly what to take and what to leave, and we always had an emergency home packed, provisioned, and ready to go. And every year we put our rig and our skills through their paces. I knew how to pack for two weeks on the run and do it in a couple of hours.

For the last twenty-five years I've lived a soft life, and now I wish I hadn't.

So, yeah, I make up kits.

 
Ratdrall-

That's a very adorable man purse!

Thanks!

I don't see the point of a survival kit. Maybe someone could explain to me in what type of situation something like that would actually be necessary (other than a spur-of-the-moment camping trip).

"Survival kit" is pretty broad.

I keep a basic "survival kit" in my car, because I commute to work. If anything happened that forced me to walk home, I have everything I need to survive day or two while I make the hike. Some people have survival kits that fit into a mint tin or a water bottle, others take half their house with them. What is crucial is testing of the gear, and hiking while weighed down. I started with a large backpack for my 72 hour bag, now it all fits into a small "man purse" (fashion doesn't matter as much in an emergency as keeping a low profile and getting home) that doesn't attract attention and doesn't weigh me down.

"Bug out bags" are different for everyone, the idea is to have basic gear all in one place so that you can grab it and run if you ever had to. The only time I've ever had to "bug out" is when a gas line broke and they evacuated my neighborhood for an afternoon. Some people live in flood areas, others worry about hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes, riots, etc. Everyone's risk is different, and it's a better idea to plan for it now than worry about it when the crap hits the fan.

One thing that many people don't do with their bugout bag is seperate fighting stuff from the rest, which is the only reason that I chime into these conversations, to present a slightly different opinion.
 
I could never sort out the grab and go bag properly until I changed my approach. Now I figure there are two broad classes of bags. The first is the get to civilization/home kind of bag that you want for things like emergencies, natural disasters, and breakdowns. Here you are thinking somewhat short term. This would be a kind of kit that would contain things like documents, money, clothes, etc. that you need to resume life when things get normal. Kits can be big or small. I worry about getting home if the next big earthquake hits here in Tokyo. My get home kit is on my key chain. I have a compass, a small sak, an Arc AAA flashlight, and a whistle.(in case I get buried). I also have a flash memory with pix of all my important documents and I always have at least $200 in my wallet, tho not in small bills which may be a mistake. We have a larger kit at home with food etc. The Katrina guy in the sticky has some great ideas about that kind of situation and it's a seriously informative read.
The other kit is the one for true bug out/teotwawki/shtf/zombie war. While far less likely you prob want to at least make a list for the same reasons that you get insurance. My rough risk calculator is Risk = damage X probability X exposure. I don't know about exposure but probability on this one is probably low, damage on the other hand is high so you should prepare at least a little. That means guns, a food stash, etc at home and a bug out bag/list set up for real long term live off the land survival. Here you should be thinking about carrying hunting, fishing, and snaring equipment instead of a big pile of food, fire steels and fire instead of stove, bricks of .22 rather than a few boxes of 12 gauge.
My personal take is that SHTF is most likely to be a situation like the one in Argentina that Ferfal describes. I say that because I've seen it in many countries. You can see it in parts of US and Canadian cities already. It's a result of globalization, or at least the model we have adopted. It's even starting here in Japan.
Ok, sorry, gotta go, the kids are bouncing off the walls cause they want to go to the zoo. We are going to take a look at some predators.
 
I guess I'm just old fashioned. To me, a survival kit is my guns, ammo & the medkit I keep in my truck.

I figure using the above I can procure whatever else I need, so I don't see the need for a kit.

Plus, I live in an area devoid of "natural disasters" and I'm 20 minutes away from being in the country with the rest of my relatives.
 
DH JENKINS - "To me, a survival kit is my guns, ammo & the medkit I keep in my truck.

I figure using the above I can procure whatever else I need,..."

That sounds exactly like those (GunKid types) who say they don't prepare for emergencies because they'll just use their guns to rob and murder people, and take whatever they need from those who have prepared.

Of course, I suppose that is kinda "old fashioned" if one considers himself a bad azz outlaw.

L.W.
 
Yeah, hence my repeated question "when would a kit like this be necessary?".

I can't imagine a scenario where I can't just purchase what I need on the way out of town, or in a neighboring town, which is why I've had to repeat my question three times now.

No offense, but it seems these kits are prepared for the entire breakdown of society, which is so unlikely as to be laughable.

I appreciate the name calling, though - but not the subsitution of "z" for "s". That's very annoying.
 
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