Navy Arms 1858 Remington

kje54

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Messages
1,901
Location
Duke City
Just received my "new" Navy arms 1858 Remington .44 caliber. Haven't located the manufacturing date yet, probably under the wood grips. Under the ramming lever is the older FAP in a diamond (Pietta) stamp. The original finish is gone and it has a wonderful aged grey patina. Timing is relatively tight but I may just get an internals replacement kit as the half cock free spin doesn't have that audible click, click, click, click unless held up to my ear. I figure the hand and stop bolt are probably worn a bit. Another thing I noticed is the base of the trigger is sharp and needs to be filed smooth, no biggy.
Just located the date code, made in 1982. It came with the holster and belt both of which look brand new. The spot that looks like a chunk was taken out of the grip is just a dark spot.

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Nice old Remmie, sounds like the hand spring is weak or needs adjustment. How is the timing? Just about every Remmie I've handled had late timing due to a short hand.
 
Nice old Remmie, sounds like the hand spring is weak or needs adjustment. How is the timing? Just about every Remmie I've handled had late timing due to a short hand.
Actually this one is not bad, the timing is pretty much spot on.
 
Looks amazing, where you managed to find it?
The Muzzleloading forum. You can get brand new ones from Dixie Gun Works, Taylor & Company, Muzzleloaders.com, EMF, Cabela's, etc....... The brand new steel framed ones start at $415 and go up unless you can find them on sale. I walked into a deal, got all of that for $350 shipped.
 
They are so fun

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I think I like my London Navy the best

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If I'm not mistaken and remember correctly, the cylinder bolt dimensions were changed in the early 2000's. Your cylinder bolt will be narrower if you try to replace it with a new part someday. If you call VTI gun parts they may still have some of the older style cylinder locking bolts.

Regards,
 
Congrats, nice score, looks like a good honest '63 New Model Army. :neener: Not too bad of an antique job, not too bright and shiny like some I've seen, but I wonder why they left the modern markings on the barrel? Removing the finish would have been a good time to do that. But yeah, I like it anyways. I need me a long barrel 1863 to go with my shorty barrel Remington.
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1863 New Model Army in Navy caliber. Yes, no such thing. Historically INCORRECT!!! Oh my goodness. This pistol, once owned by Maria Uberti.
 
It came with the holster and belt both of which look brand new.
Very nice belt and holster. I sure prefer a flap holster over all others...but I take my revolvers into the wilderness, not just the shooting range. What does "CS" stand for? "Cap Snapper"??? :rofl:
 
1863 New Model Army in Navy caliber. Yes, no such thing. Historically INCORRECT!!! Oh my goodness. This pistol, once owned by Maria Uberti.

There was no 1863 New Model Army either. They were just New Models. There were 33,600 New Models in .36 caliber made between May of 61 and Dec of 65.
 
But not on the .44 frame. ?
No sir. The original Remington .36 "belt model" Navy revolvers had a very noticeably smaller frame when compared side by side. Pietta used the same frame as the NMA, probably to consolidate parts. The cylinder on the originals was smaller in diameter as well. Pietta used a .44 cylinder bored undersized.
 
Also if you look between the nipples you'll see additional notches. These are the "safety", gently drop the hammer down on the notch and it keeps the hammer in place allowing one to load all six cylinders and carry it safely.

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Don't make the mistake of assuming these are "safe". You will need to remove the bolt and cylinder and make 100% sure the bolt seats all the way to the bottom of the safety notches. There are plenty of horror stories about bolts lightly fitting in the notches and popping out with a slight impact. Don't be "that guy".
 
Don't make the mistake of assuming these are "safe". You will need to remove the bolt and cylinder and make 100% sure the bolt seats all the way to the bottom of the safety notches. There are plenty of horror stories about bolts lightly fitting in the notches and popping out with a slight impact. Don't be "that guy".
I think he's speaking of the nose of the hammer setting in the notches between the cones. However, sometimes those don't seat correctly. My short barrel Pietta that I got recently, the shape of the nose was such that it barely seated in the notch, it was not secure. Some slight filing/re-shaping of my hammer nose corrected it.
 
No sir. The original Remington .36 "belt model" Navy revolvers had a very noticeably smaller frame when compared side by side. Pietta used the same frame as the NMA, probably to consolidate parts. The cylinder on the originals was smaller in diameter as well. Pietta used a .44 cylinder bored undersized.
Right, my Uberti 1863 in Navy caliber, is just that, a .44 frame and cylinder but "underbored". However, the barrel on it is of smaller diameter than your usual .44. The one I have is a prototype or sample gun, and they may have gone to a .44 sized barrel in production...but that I don't know. It is however, one jewel of a pistol.
 
I think he's speaking of the nose of the hammer setting in the notches between the cones. However, sometimes those don't seat correctly. My short barrel Pietta that I got recently, the shape of the nose was such that it barely seated in the notch, it was not secure. Some slight filing/re-shaping of my hammer nose corrected it.
That's what I'm talking about, yes. Most times the bolt head is only giving the cylinder a "wedgie" (to coin a phrase from Larson E. Pettifogger) that is way less "safe" than you would think.
Best practice unless you are at the firing line, is to load five and carry on an empty chamber.
 
Don't make the mistake of assuming these are "safe". You will need to remove the bolt and cylinder and make 100% sure the bolt seats all the way to the bottom of the safety notches. There are plenty of horror stories about bolts lightly fitting in the notches and popping out with a slight impact. Don't be "that guy".
Thanks but I already checked mine and it's not popping out except possibly if I hit it with a three pound hand sledge........ And even then I doubt it will pop out.
 
Thanks but I already checked mine and it's not popping out except possibly if I hit it with a three pound hand sledge........ And even then I doubt it will pop out.
I think that the accepted method is to get up on the roof, and toss off. If it stays on "safe", then you are good. Having it land on the driveway, paved, cement or gravel is preferred.
 
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