Need HELP w/ Savage Axis .308 build please

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Glad to see you're moving in the right direction.

Front bag placement still has effect on group size and poi but not as severe as before.

Bag placement shouldn't affect POI on a properly bedded stock of adequate stiffness.

The placing of the factory scope bases gave me problems with proper eye relief. That's the other reason besides poor quality I went with replacement bases and extended rings.
 
I was surprised to find out a Nikon Monarch wouldn't fit due to how far apart the bases are. Looks like one would barely fit with the factory rings since they are thinner. Not sure why they space those bases so far apart. I got the cheapie $11 Weaver 1-piece coming tomorrow. The DNZ will be a week or so due to backorder. It looks similar to the one on my 700 which I really like. But at least I can get the new rings w/ a different scope to the range for testing with the cheapie base. So [im]patiently waiting to mount a different scope & see what happens there.

I didn't think bag placement should matter at all. Not that I'm shooting B/A rifles all the time. Lot of ARS, but otherwise my rifle shooting is mostly a CZ 452 & Rem 700. Both of those are so insanely accurate maybe I'm spoiled? But I never noticed target/varmint build AR, or either of those bolt actions caring one bit where the bags were. Bullets land where I put the crosshairs - real simple - and I would suspect a better rifleman could get even tighter groups than i do from any of those 3.

Can't see anything obvious with stock like a crack or high spot. When putting barreled action into stock, nothing seems 'off' like binding or I'm forcing it to clear a tight area. Nothing feels like it's binding or being pulled down to settle in place when torquing action screws. The recoil lug doesn't measure high enough over stock bed anywhere to where it should be a pivot point or the top of it should contact the bottom of barrel. Have about .007" clearance front-to-back around it.

If neither base nor scope are culprit I'm kind of lost. Should have held on to factory stock longer - surprised it sold in just a couple days. Would be nice to put it back on & see how it behaves. Anyway, if it still misbehaves after different scope, rings, & base all I can think to do is dig out the bedding & do that over. I used small amount of epoxy so could do it again using more and getting a lot more squeeze out than I did.
 
Definitely a bedding problem if the bag position consistently changes the point of impact. Set the gun on the floor sitting upright on the recoil pad. Hold the forend with one hand and grab the end of the barrel with the other and try to move the end of the barrel side to side and up and down in the stock. If you are able to move the receiver in the stock by any amount it will never shoot accurately.
 
I started using one piece picatinny bases on bolt action rifles a couple of years ago. I don't necessarily care for the look but it eliminates any problem one might have getting a scope mounted when it comes to scope tube length. I use EGW but there are numerous others.
 
That issue you mentioned previously about there being a little bit of play with the action sitting in the stock (without the action screws in), did that JB Weld bedding job you did completely correct that?
 
Not completely but made it much better. If I stick the barreled action in the stock but do not insert action screws, the whole assembly will rock front to back a little. Hard to describe so you can read this and understand what I see. Imagine the recoil lug was about .010" too high making a high spot that acts as a pivot point. if you push on the top of the barrel past the barrel nut, the tang with safety will lift up a little. Like somewhere the receiver sits on a high spot which allows the entire barreled action to seesaw a tiny bit.

It is not the recoil lug. I measured the area it goes into behind barrel nut and the lug itself. The top of the recoil lug should not be hitting the barrel threads. There is clearance. Measured at corners too - several places. But from pressing around to see where I get movement, it is in that area.

If I press say in between where the action screws would be - say top of receiver centered on ejection port, there is no movement or rocking. Only when I press forward of about where the front action screw would be. With action screws installed and torqued, there is not movement. If I squeeze a little at the stock fore end and top of barrel, the barrel will flex down and contact the stock. Like where the most forward sling swivel is if I put my thumb there and my fingers on top of the barrel and then squeeze, I can make the barrel move down & touch the stock. That might be a perfectly normal flexing or an indication of what is broken.

The cheapie Weaver 1-piece mount got here today. It is installed with my new fat rings and a Nikon Monarch 3. Loaded up some more 125 gr & 165 gr with extreme care & have some factory ammo left too. If rain lets up tomorrow will test it out.

On a side note, assuming Weaver scope included with rifle turns out to be the issue I will need a replacement. Already slightly over the budget I had in mind for this build & adding glass wasn't a consideration. Don't know if I mentioned it, but this is to be a deer rifle for my stepson who graduates HS next month. He's developed a real hunting bug over past year since moving back to TN with his father. All he has is 12GA Benelli Supervonva - I guess if you want to hunt & only have 1 thing, a 12GA isn't bad way to go. Anyway, he got a deer, turkey, & cougar this year & working on thinning the local coyote population as well. Figured a rifle would open up some options for him esp for deer (I'm not a hunter but would assume max range is a big limitation for deer with a shotgun). Went with .308 because I don't think there is anything in TN that .308 won't work for but might be a little much for some of the smaller stuff. But that's why I'm trying to get a good 125gr varmint load + a good 165gr larger critter load. So I might end up needing a good, yet not insanely expensive scope. I use Nikon Monarchs for anything with a scope but don't want to spend $400ish more on this gun. I've never used so have no idea how the their other models are. $130 3-9x40 Buckmaster, $185 Prostaff, etc. I do have a Vortex Crossfire II here that I took as part of a trade deal. Seems to work ok but no idea if it's good for hunting - or a good scope in general. That's an option too - it's sitting on a 10/22 right now & seems ok for it. Whatever it ends up being will probably need a 40mm lens or else clearance will be an issue. Everything I bought is 'medium height' & that seems to work well with the comb on stock too.
 
If you can get your hands on some dental articulating paper, you can use it to find any high spots guaranteed. There might be other, more widely available types of it too, idk. Basically it's a very fine wax paper with an ink that rubs off easily. You lay it between the action and the bedding, and press at various points. Any high spot will have the ink (not permanent at all if that concerns you) marking it. Then just use a very fine sandpaper to work on that section. Dentists use it to ensure there's no high spots when they do amalgam or composite fillings on the chewing surfaces of teeth.

To be fair, idk if this could be what's causing the problem. Just throwing it out as something you could check if you're at a complete loss as to what the problem is. It's worth a try, I think.
 
of all the scopes that I have had from swift, vortex, burris, simmons, barska, redfield, bushnell, weaver, nikon, and leupold, the best one I've had by far is a leupold VX1 3-9x40. I recently got it on sale from gander mountain for about $160 + tax.
 
1.25" - 1.5" groups today. That might be more me than the gun - was rushing since there was a break in the rain but still a light mist & starting to get dark. Will have to try again sometime soon when I can really take my time & see what happens. But even though a miserable, dreary day for shooting results were promising.

Never heard of camera land company in the link, They good to deal with?
 
The Minox ZV3 3-9x40 is an incredibly good scope for the money. I believe it totally outclasses the Crossfire, Buckmaster and ProStaff. $99.99 to your door.

http://m.cameralandny.com/spec_shee...uids][0]=82e9eb30-0bd4-0134-ae71-00163e9110c0

Never seen one, I will be sure to take a look at one if I see it somewhere. My other pick for a good value scope ($100-$150) would be the nikon buckmasters. I like the nikon pro staff as well but considering they are basically the same price as a leupold but without as good of a warranty I can't see myself buying one. I think all my hunting scopes in the future will be burris fullfield's and leupold VX-1's
 
Been buying from Camera Land for five years. They are my favorite company to deal with. If you go to the optics section at 24 Hour Campfire there is a bunch of stuff about them.
 
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