NEED HELP

[edggy]

I finally bought a R&D Conversion Cylinder for my little 1849 pocket Revolver.
It fits and rotates but it won't cock unless you press on the side of the hammer hearing a click this happens on just one or two of the chambers.
Is there anything I can do to fix this problem besides sending the revolver in
to Tayors which I have already contacted. Thank You

 

[sjohns]

is this an older gun? and this is a drop-in right?

It sounds like either the hammerscrew is worn or the hole in the hammer that accepts the screw is worn, because it sounds like you have some side to side play with the hammer.

the clicking sound could be from either the bolt catch or from the trigger edge in the hammer slots.

Can you try tightening the hammer screw first?

if that doesn't do it, inspect the legs on the bolt, then the hammer slots and the edge of the trigger that connects with them. look for worn spots on the bolt, and an uneven blade where the trigger meets the hammer slots.

But it is possible that all you need is a new hammer screw.


you can also take out the cylinder, cock the hammer back and check it for side to side play. If it is excessive, possibly a new hammer and screw will do the trick.

But if this is a brand new Uberti and an R&D drop-in, then it sounds like possibly the lugs on the cylinder where the hand connects may be a little out of specs.

I am assuming the BP cylinder doesn't have this problem when used?

 

[edggy]

it is a new revolver and works well with the B.P. cylinder. The screws were
lose and there is a little play on the hammer. Not much but some. tighten the
screws but the problem still exists. As you pull back the hammer it locks up
until you push the hammer to the side and then it works. You can feel a
slight click on the hammer as you push it then it works. I just hate to send
the Revolver in if it is something minor that I can adjust. Thanks

 

[Steve499]

Take this as being worth what it's costing you!

I'd tend to think if it was working with the percussion cylinder and isn't with the conversion cylinder the problem could be in the relationship of the hand to the ratchet on the rear of the new cylinder. If the hand is too long, it could bottom out on the ratchet notch before the sear notch can engage. You could take a little off the hand to see, there's a little to play with on most revolvers, or was on mine, anyway. If you ruin it, hands are pretty cheap to replace. The other option, assuming, of course that I'm not all wet about the problem, would be to try to figure a way to modify the recesses on the new cylinder. Probably not a good plan if your skill level is no greater than mine.

You might loosen up the wedge to open up the cylinder gap and see if it cycles that way. I don't know if there is enough length in the locking slots to let the cylinder move forward with the locking bolt engaged, but if there is and it works normally that way, I'd think the hand was the problem for sure.

Steve

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

Is the conversion cylinder a tighter fit than the cap and ball cylinder ? or is it possibly a looser fit ? if it`s a tighter fit it will take a little fileing in the cylinder pin window on the inside of the frame , it could be too tight and binding . if it`s a looser fit it could need the hand spring adjusted .. one way to tell is point the gun towdars the ground and try to index it .. if it works that way the hand spring is too loose for that cylinder and will need adjusting , and pointed up or out it won`t index properly .
most of the conversion cylinders i have were a little too tight a fit and i had to do the cylinder pin window fileing to make them index without binding . It`s something Taylors should be able to talk you through on the phone ...when a cap and ball cylinder works fine and the conversion won`t .. it`s uasually something pretty simple to fix .