Need INFORMED results on AR platform

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I myself am not that impressed with the SCAR. Shot a few and just didn't like them. I am set on an AR platform of that I am sure. And also am dead set on a 10 platform. I am just not impressed by the short action offerings for future use on medium to large game.
 
Or just build a 6x45 like I did it's pushing a 70grn hunk of lead at 3200fps

Why would I do that when I can push a 139gr "chunk of lead" at 3000fps? Twice the lead at virtually the same speeds!
 
OK, now a new dilemma. The barrel on my new Accuracy Systems International AR10 in 7mm.08 Started out as either a Krieger or a Shilen blank then contracted to Rainier to be finished. Anyway, the dilemma I am having is the "break in" requirements they sent with the rifle. They are as follows : Barrel Break-In Procedures

Thank you for you purchase of an Accuracy Systems Barrel Conversion. While all of our barrels are of high quality, a new barrel will shoot best if careful attention is given to proper break-in. The bore of your new barrel has "pores" and as you break in the barrel these "pores" are smoothed over. A smooth barrel always cleans up better than one that isn't.

Equipment needed:
Purchase 2 or 3 Hoppe's Bore Snakes suitable for the caliber of your rifle.
Cleaning & Polishing compound to be used: Brownells JB Bore Compound (you can get this product by calling Brownells @ 1-800-741-0015) we recommend using this for the entire break in and after the break in it can be used as a barrel cleaner.
Automotive Brake Parts cleaner (For cleaning the Bore Snakes for reuse)
Break-In Procedures:
Clean barrel after each 3 shot group for the first 60 shots or more if needed. Use one of the Bore snakes with the JB Bore Compound mentioned above. Put the compound in bush area of the snake. Pull the bore snake through the rifle from chamber to muzzle 3 times. Follow that up by pulling the clean, dry, second snake through 2 more times. We also recommend 0000 steel wool wrapped around the brush area only this will help lap the barrel even further reducing fouling and speeding the barrel break in. Make sure you use the JB Compound liberally on the steel wool! It is not needed behind the brush area.
Check to see if there is any visible copper fouling. The barrel will have an orange or brown tint inside the barrel if it is fouled. If copper is visible in the barrel a copper solvent will be needed.
NOTE: If Bore snake is used for different chemicals make SURE to completely clean it with the brake cleaner to remove any cleaning solvent from step 1 before using the copper solvent! Mixing of chemicals could have an adverse effect on the barrel. Three bore snakes are recommended for ease of break in. After brake cleaner has been applied to the bore snake, wring it out to remove the excessive brake cleaner. You may have to repeat this process until the snake is completely clean. Allow the bore snake to dry out. It should evaporate with in about 15 minutes in direct sun light.
Take one of the clean dry bore snakes, soak with copper solvent, and run it through the rifle from chamber to muzzle 3 times and let sit for about 10 minutes. Follow that up by pulling the clean, dry, snake through 3 times more. REPEAT TILL ALL COPPER IS GONE!
For the next 30 shots, Clean the barrel after each 3 shot group following the above initial break in procedures. The Barrel should be finished with the break in process after 90 rounds. However if you still notice fouling you may have to continue the process until fouling is at a minimum.
Revert to your normal cleaning schedule. Make sure to continue to always clean your barrel during and after each outing to insure the optimum accuracy out of your rifle.
**The beauty of brake parts cleaner verses Gun Scrubber™ is that the brake cleaner can be found at any automotive store at ½ the cost of the Gun Scrubber™. Brake parts cleaner works just as well and dries just as fast.

Thank you, Accuracy Systems Inc.

This seems a bit on the extreme side to say the least! I plan on sending a LOT of rounds downrange with this rifle and this seems, to me anyway, like that is a LOT of barrel life being removed. I was just wondering if anyone here has any experience with these barrels and if they feel maybe Fire Lapping would be a better solution than this crap they are suggesting. JB bore paste, I have used it plenty and while it is a great product for copper fouling removal and to aid in slicking the barrel up for easier cleaning, I do NOT feel comfortable using it to this extent in a short period of time. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
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i've never heard instructions like that before.

i always break in my precision barrels, but any copper solvent will do, and there's no need to get so specific about using a bore snake. geez.

i can't look at my barrels and tell if they are copper fouled by an orange tint. you tell by the color of the patches you pull out of a barrel.

and 60-90 rounds? holy crap. i think 20 rounds was about the most it ever took to stop copper fouling, and almost all the rest of my barrels stopped in fewer than a dozen.
 
All of my Hart barrels I fire lapped (one set) and they are all smooth as glass and VERY easy to clean. I did mean fire lap by the way not hand lap up there in the post so Ill fix that. I have hand lapped but I always did it on undersized blanks as a way to finish size and I always ended up cutting off because it would "bell" at the ends.

I for sure am NOT doing it with bore snakes, I hate them damn things. I have bore guides for this and very good quality brass cleaning rods and high end brushes. I MAY use the JB a couple of passes but I for damn sure do NOT think I will be doing all the stuff they say to do. That just seems a lot of abrasion to me. If anyone else feels like I am wrong in this assumption please educate me as to why.
 
I like the barrel break in procedure that came with my Bushmaster AR-10; "Shoot 200 rounds then clean". The rifle is as accurate as most of my bolt guns.
 
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