I tried the search but I can't find anything about shaving finger notches.I love the gun but the raised notches sit right in the middle of my fingers and it's starting to bug me.I did not notice so much when I bought it,guess I was to excited about buying it.Anyway is there any way to remove them without it looking like a hack job.Thanks
need to remove finger notches on my g21sf
- Thread starter ca-c54
- Start date
- Status
Possibly light sanding with very fine grit sandpaper (400, 600, 1000)?
there are companies that do grip reductions on Glocks so it can be done.
You can also get a Hogue Handall rubber sleeve that fits over the finger grooves; or try visiting Glocktalk.com to see what people there'd recommend.
there are companies that do grip reductions on Glocks so it can be done.
You can also get a Hogue Handall rubber sleeve that fits over the finger grooves; or try visiting Glocktalk.com to see what people there'd recommend.
The Lone Haranguer
Member
Something like a wood rasp (e.g., Stanley Surform), or even a carefully wielded belt sander, should take the raised part of the finger grooves right off. You may want to make a "finish cut" with progressively finer files or sandpaper. You would not want to go too deep into the bottoms of the grooves, but some filing, grinding or sanding will be necessary to blend it in for a uniform appearance.
shooting4fun
Member
Good Day CA-C54, and et al.,
I was in a similar situation with my G19. I found that using a course file < wood rasp is a good suggestion > to remove the bulk of the material. Blending was done with a fine file. Minor final finishing was done with sandpaper. Starting off with sandpaper without good technique may produce results that might not be satisfactory. Using the file provided better control of the roughing out action. This was important to maintain proper shape and symmetry of the finished grip.
I will close that with the Glock's polymer, speed is not your friend as the friction of aggressive methods will melt the polymer rather than remove the material. Take your time, your patience will be rewarded. While the whole process is quite simple, it is also quite easy to train wreck thing if you loose focus on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
I was in a similar situation with my G19. I found that using a course file < wood rasp is a good suggestion > to remove the bulk of the material. Blending was done with a fine file. Minor final finishing was done with sandpaper. Starting off with sandpaper without good technique may produce results that might not be satisfactory. Using the file provided better control of the roughing out action. This was important to maintain proper shape and symmetry of the finished grip.
I will close that with the Glock's polymer, speed is not your friend as the friction of aggressive methods will melt the polymer rather than remove the material. Take your time, your patience will be rewarded. While the whole process is quite simple, it is also quite easy to train wreck thing if you loose focus on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
As above I've used files then finished with sandpaper to good effect on a few G-23's ove the past years.
You will of course end up with a couple of smooth "Bands" in the spot where your grooves were. This may or may not bother you. I like to "dimple" that area lightly with a soldering iron, you can practice on the mag loaders which will give you a pretty good feel for how to work it. I've always sprayed the tip with "Pam" before soldering, don't know if it really helps or not, just what was suggested so thats what I have always done
Before you start anything however remmeber this will likely reduce the resale value of your pistol, and knock you out of many "Stock" firearm competitions if either is important to you.
You will of course end up with a couple of smooth "Bands" in the spot where your grooves were. This may or may not bother you. I like to "dimple" that area lightly with a soldering iron, you can practice on the mag loaders which will give you a pretty good feel for how to work it. I've always sprayed the tip with "Pam" before soldering, don't know if it really helps or not, just what was suggested so thats what I have always done
Before you start anything however remmeber this will likely reduce the resale value of your pistol, and knock you out of many "Stock" firearm competitions if either is important to you.
W.E.G.
Member
Dremel!!!!!!!!!
One of my favorite lines from the gunsmithing section of Glocktalk :"You Freeze!! Put DOWN THE DREMEL and step away from the Glock" 
Seriously a friend did his 23 with a dremel and it came out fine, he is good with it though. Too fast a rotation speed and you can end of with plastic sludge instead of a sanded surface...
Seriously a friend did his 23 with a dremel and it came out fine, he is good with it though. Too fast a rotation speed and you can end of with plastic sludge instead of a sanded surface...
Last edited:
sojournerhome
Member
The third-gen glocks don't fit my hand for the same reason. The gun shop owner suggested a dremel as well.
There was a suggestion somewhere on how to unsmooth the sanded plastic areas after you're done shaping it. Something like tapping on rough sandpaper with a small hammer to rough up the surface and match the OEM "smooth" surfaces. Too lazy to search, tho....
Harley Quinn
Member
The idea of friction not being your friend is for sure regarding the material.
It will take some time and a good file that has the correct cutting angle.
http://www.fine-tools.com/feile.htm
Working with a file is an art and you need to make sure you have the right one for the job at hand.
Good luck.
It will take some time and a good file that has the correct cutting angle.
http://www.fine-tools.com/feile.htm
Working with a file is an art and you need to make sure you have the right one for the job at hand.
Good luck.
CountGlockula
Member
I remember seeing one online where the three finger humps were shaved off. It actually looks great...1st generationish.
Harley Quinn
Member
To bad you can't get all the new stuff with the choice of first or second generation grip, but at least you can file it and have custom
I see where "Hogue" offers the addition of the third grip, slid over the first or second grip
http://www.getgrip.com/main/overview/handall.html
If you don't like it, you can cut it off...
I see where "Hogue" offers the addition of the third grip, slid over the first or second grip
http://www.getgrip.com/main/overview/handall.html
If you don't like it, you can cut it off...
Autolycus
Member
To bad Glock does not offer this as an option.
Desertscout
Member
Here's a G21SF that we did for a LEO recently.
possum
Member
if you didn't want to do it yourself, which i don't think that i would, but that is because i don't trust myself that much. there are places like Robar,and BTC that do great work. as well they can do some other bonuses to it while its there.
DougW
Member
I dremmeled my 3rd gen G19, then finished with fine file and fine grit sandpaper. Works and feels wonderful.
rockstar.esq
Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2004
- Messages
- 1,475
I have to wonder if the stippling is done with some form of heated iron. If so, it might stand to reason that a combination of heat and cutting would make for a smooth fluid cut.
Josh Aston
Member
rockstar.esq said:
I've done a couple and I used a wood burner for the stippling. Not too difficult at all.
TimboKhan
Member
One of the gun magazines (or maybe it was SGN) ran an article fairly recently describing exactly how to stipple, and it seems like Ray told me the last time I was in Jensens that he has stippled his own guns. It's literally just a wood-burner and some patience. For shaving grips down, I think (don't qoute me on this) that if you rasp it down pretty good, then file, then hit it up with some fine sandpaper thats about it. A dremel would make this super easy to do. The big custom shops might use a hot saw or something, but my guess is that they just dremel the sucker.
cedjunior
Member
rodregier
Member
I speculate that part of the reason why Glock went with the contoured grip was to juggle the BATFE "factoring criteria" points for importation. With points for a so-called target grip, they could probably drop using the adjustable rear sight as a means to get enough points to permit importation. As such, they wouldn't want to offer any variants that were not target grips. The molds to make the frames are very expensive, so they likely only maintain one per frame size. I would speculate that they altered the 2nd generation molds to make the 3rd generation molds. If so there's no longer an option for them to produce 2nd generation frames in any case.
- Status
