New CVA Bobcat....

[Latitude42]

1st off, hello. New to the forum, but lurking for a while. Been shooting since I was knee high to a grape vine, but now I've got an itch for the guns of my ancestors. (really... they come from Hazard Kentucky!!)
Here is the skinny of it all... a few years ago (8?) my pop gave me a Colt Army replica, made in Italy that he swindled from a feller at a rummage sale. It has no rust and looks to be in good condition. Haven't given it much thought till this weekend. I was poking through a local gun show and ended up walking out the door with a CVA Bobcat (new?) slung over my shoulder for the low low price of $###.00. So before I go buy 5 lbs. of powder and round ball etc... anyone have some suggestion on what I should do to this fire stick BEFORE I go out in the back 40 and make noise?
The CVA site suggest FFg powder, .490 round ball w/.015 patch, #11 percussion cap. I have read where some find it a good idea to get a different nipple? Some say add weight to the hollow stock. I'm gonna need to get a nipple wrench for both guns... is there a certain size for each? I'll need a flask and measure devise for the powder... any recommendations? Oh, I guess I'll need a ball starter too and maybe a more sturdy ramrod?
Thanks for any advice!!!

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Welcome to The Highroad! Lots of information here from lots of good folks. CVA bobcat, .490 ball, as stated, 3fg powder or one of the substitute powders will work, I prefer an .018 canvas duck patch lubed with Pinesol. Literally everyone on here has a different patch lube so chose what works for you. I would start with 55 grains of powder and work up from there to find your accuracy load. #11 caps will work just fine. On to the revolver, .454 ball, 25 grains of powder to start, cardboard over powder wad, seat ball and lube over the ball. Depending on the maker it may take #10 or #11 caps, you'll just have to see what fits the best. YouTube has lots of videos on how to load and shoot both guns. On a side note, the pistol will most likely need some work as most Italy ones do. Pm me for more info on what can be done.

 

[entropy]

Welcome to THR, Latitude42! I have a Bobcat, paid the princely sum of $50 for it about 10 years ago. I bought it as a gun for my youngest son to use for M/L deer season, he had no interest in it at all. So it's my backup hunting, and range "Hey, want to try something different?" gun. I use 50 gr. Pyrodex 'P' for a plinking load, 83 gr. of FFG for a hunting load, it's accurate from both of my rifles. (my hunting M/L is a Traditions Deer Stalker) I use 385 gr. HBHP conicals for hunting, .490" ball + .015 ticking patch for plinking. I use a Hot Shot nipple on mine.
I can't add anything to what Jackrabbit 1957 already said on the pistol.
Enjoy walking your ancestor's trail, smokepole in hand!

 

[arcticap]

The CVA site suggest FFg powder, .490 round ball w/.015 patch, #11 percussion cap. I have read where some find it a good idea to get a different nipple? Some say add weight to the hollow stock. I'm gonna need to get a nipple wrench for both guns... is there a certain size for each? I'll need a flask and measure devise for the powder... any recommendations? Oh, I guess I'll need a ball starter too and maybe a more sturdy ramrod?
Thanks for any advice!!!

Different nipple wrenches are needed for each gun.
One is called a revolver nipple wrench that's made to fit most all revolvers except the Walker and Dragoon.
The other is a #11 nipple wrench that's made for rifles.
Be careful about buying imported ones because they often bend and break easily.
The best ones are made in the USA.

1. https://rmcoxyoke.com/product/rmc-revolver-nipple-wrench/

2. https://rmcoxyoke.com/product/rmc-nipple-wrench/

You may want to add weight to the stock, some folks used to add kid's modeling clay from Walmart.
The Bobcat stock is filled with an airy foam that's pretty easy to remove, it's brittle and just breaks apart.
But you should fire the gun first to see if you really need it with round balls.

Try the factory nipple before buying a new one.
Be prepared to put powder under the nipple or by removing the clean out screw if you have a misfire or too many hang fires.

Always clean your guns after each shooting session, and be sure to clean and lube the nipple threads and clean out screw so they don't get rusted and stuck.
There's really no need to over-tighten them, just barely snug is good enough.

What caliber and make is the revolver?
.36 revolvers generally use .375 balls depending on the make of the gun.
Is it a steel or brass frame gun?

For a range rod, you can go to Lowes or a hardware store and get a thick, almost bore size wooden dowel that will still fit into the bore.
It should only cost a couple of Dollars and you can easily put a handle on it by drilling a hole into a wood object.
The dowel will be longer than needed, a short piece can be made into a short starter or a long starter.

Always keep your powder dry and covered from humidity.

Here's a Traditions brass push button flask and powder measure from Amazon with free shipping.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Traditions-P...FSBTC6R9W2N&psc=1&refRID=Y95E36V13FSBTC6R9W2N

2. https://www.amazon.com/Traditions-P...easure&qid=1615235427&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3

Welcome Latitude42 and enjoy!

 

[Latitude42]

The revolver is a Richland Arms .44 cal. Steel frame w/brass trigger guard..

 

[gobsauce]

The revolver is a Richland Arms .44 cal. Steel frame w/brass trigger guard..

Be a lot easier if you posted a picture to go along with it. Visuals are always greatly appreciated, besides,it gives you the opportunity to show of your piece!

 

[Latitude42]

I'll give it a try....

 

[arcticap]

I'll give it a try....View attachment 983228

If possible, you should try to figure out who made your gun in case you ever need replacement parts.
Richland imported guns from different companies.
Some 1860's they imported were made by ASM, Armi San Marco, which is out of business. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lt-barrel-address.788491/page-4#post-10090125
Try to find maker's marks or tell us if there's a barrel address.
Any photos of a maker's mark could be helpful.
Maker's marks could be letters, such as stylized initials, or a stamped insignia.
That's a very nice looking gun, looks like new.

 

[Latitude42]

It is stamped Armi San Marco under the barrel....

 

[gobsauce]

ASM, you'll really wanna take care of it since the parts aren't manufactured anymore. I ran into the same issue with my Pietta: although the company is still in business,the parts aren't made the same way as 40 years ago.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

ASM will most definitely need some work to make it right, especially the short arbor thing. There are lots of posts here on the Arbor problem. You really should read the posts by 45 Dragoon. Mike is extremely knowledgeable on these pistols, he makes his living by fixing them and tuning and such. He says he's not a gunsmith, but he really is, he just won't admit to such a foolish notion.

 

[Ranger99]

JMHO- I wouldn't use a common dowel for
a muzzleloader ramrod. You'll want something that started out as a split so
no grain will run out to one side or the other.
If the ramrod happened to break while you
were putting extra pressure seating a load
down a fouled barrel, you'd end up with a
sharp section of dowel through your hand
worse case scenario

 

[Ranger99]

Another JMHO- you don't need as much
powder as many use, especially for
helluvit shooting, but even deer don't need
100 grains of black to poke a hole through
their side. I used to load max with all mine, but been using 70- 80 the last year or two and it works about as well for
what I do

The Bobcats are good guns and I've
had several. The cheap little lock
works good with a little polishing

 

[Latitude42]

...." I wouldn't use a common dowel for
a muzzleloader ramrod. You'll want something that started out as a split so
no grain will run out to one side or the other."

Would a shaft from a carbon fiber arrow work???? Just a thought...

 

[Ranger99]

Bobcat at the bottom

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Track of the Wolf sells synthetic ramrods, well worth the money.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

I shot a .50 CVA Bobcat a lot. I bought it because it was cheap. End of muzzleloading hunting season close out special cheap.

Started out participating in muzzleloading matches with it.

Then I started participating in black powder cartridge matches with it (until I worked up BPC handloads for centerfire rifle): course of fire was five rounds bench rest target, then five each silhouette targets, 100 meter pigs, 150 meter turkeys, 200 meter rams, for minimum 20 shots for score each match. Couple of seasons of six, seven matches, minimum 20 shots a match for score is a test. The Bobcat stood up well. I bought an adjustable rear sight for mine.

People who really like Bobcats end buying wooden stocks and adjustable sights for them. Many bought it as a plastic stock fixed sight starter rifle, then end up upgrading the starter rifle rather than buying an upgrade rifle!

 

[Latitude42]

View attachment 983408
Bobcat at the bottom

What nipple is on the Bobcat... and why did you change it?

 

[arcticap]

It is stamped Armi San Marco under the barrel....

Deer Creek Products in Waldron, Indiana still has some ASM revolver parts.
Some of the parts are interchangeable between the ASM Colt models.
Other manufacturer's parts may need to be fitted for those that can't be found.
Deer Creek Products online store: --->>> https://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
Home page: --->>> https://www.deercreekproducts.net

Just shoot it and worry about the other stuff later.
Your revolver could be perfect as it is.

 

[arcticap]

JMHO- I wouldn't use a common dowel for
a muzzleloader ramrod. You'll want something that started out as a split so
no grain will run out to one side or the other.
If the ramrod happened to break while you
were putting extra pressure seating a load
down a fouled barrel, you'd end up with a
sharp section of dowel through your hand
worse case scenario

I use thick ones that are about 7/16" or .43 caliber for .50 bores, and I've never broken one.
I always bought them at True Value Hardware, but Lowes has oak dowels.
Just inspect the grain before buying.
I'd hate to see someone spend $200 on accessories for a $100 - $150 rifle. that Walmart sold on clearance for $59 - $99.
Plus thick wooden ramrods don't hurt the crown as much as some rods can.
Some below are for .36 caliber and just fit in the bore.

View attachment 983468 View attachment 983469

This ramrod grip is like a hard rubber arrow puller. If you need extra grip on the ramrod and don't have a handle on top, use a piece of rubber, or buy a cheap arrow puller.
When your ramrod gets stuck in the bore with a tight jag and patch, you'll appreciate it.
That's why I use undersized jags with thicker patches.
If you lose one in the bore you'll need a hook or worm attachment to fish it out.

Use extra length of dowel to make some home made accessories, like a short starter, long starter or mallet.
These are homemade and bought, one is a $1.00 clam or seafood mallet, but you get the idea of what you can do at home.
FWIW, see if you like the rifle first before spending a ton of money on accessories.

Here's a TC patch worm or patch puller.

And a piece of piano wire, a safety pin or a sewing needle can serve as a nipple pick to clean out the nipple hole.
It's an item that you must have.

 

[gobsauce]

What nipple is on the Bobcat... and why did you change it?

On a bobcat, more than likely the standard rifle nipple. People change them for various reasons: they fit caps better (so caps don't fall out); they have better ignition , etc. Honestly, I think people are confusing you. What was said about not just using any dowel rod basically meant that you should know how to pick one, but if your rifle came with one don't fret. Unless you're looking to really really get into it, the investment really isn't worth it.

If you're just testing the waters, first start off with that revolver of yours. You'll need:

A flask to carry the powder.
A powder measure ( frankly, I pour the powder straight into the chamber from the flask, but people generally pour from the flask to the measure to the chambers for safety).
Powder, I personally use Pyrodex, but to each his own.
Caps, I personally use cci #11's just because they work better with my revolver, but you can also use Remington #10.
Since yours is .44, you need .451 round balls or conicals.
Lubrication, like Bore Butter or Tallow, or even Felt wads.
Definitely a nipple wrench for cleaning. I'd suggest one, but frankly I don't even know the one I have.

 

[Latitude42]

WOW, that is a sack full of good info!!! Yep, I'm a bit of a DIY-er from way back. I also like the idea of KISS (keep it simple stupid). My grandfather used to take me coon hunting starting about 8 years old... all we took with us was a canvas sack to put the coons in, two Blue Tic Hounds, his Kentucky Squirrel rifle & a coal oil lamp that clipped onto the front of his cap. Wish I had that rifle now!.
I ended up gettin a brass powder flask, brass powder measure & round ball from Midway.. I'll DIY the ball starter for the Bobcat... the rest I'm still up in the air about. Found some powder from Buffalo Trading, already had 8 tins of caps. I'll dig into the fixins to do the cleaning and such too. I think Track of the Wolf has the nipple wrenches I'll be needin. Someone from here offered to give the .44 a once over... might give that a go once I figure out the logistics of it all.
Thanks for all the help!

 

[WestKentucky]

On pistol loads you don’t necessarily need a powder measurer. You can trim the stem so that you put your finger over it and pop the gate open to let it fill, close the gate and charge that chamber. That’s how I charge my .45 rifle as well, but I do 2 of the drop tubes full to get me really close to 75 grains.

 

[gobsauce]

On pistol loads you don’t necessarily need a powder measurer. You can trim the stem so that you put your finger over it and pop the gate open to let it fill, close the gate and charge that chamber. That’s how I charge my .45 rifle as well, but I do 2 of the drop tubes full to get me really close to 75 grains.

Well yeah, most flasks come with pre measured spouts go begin with.

 

[WestKentucky]

Well yeah, most flasks come with pre measured spouts go begin with.

But new folks to front stuffers probably don’t know that. I didn’t for a long while, so I felt like it would be nice to make that point so that it doesn’t get missed. Remember, new folks are new, and the things that may seem obvious to veteran shooters are not so obvious to new folks.