I honestlly don't get all the trigger complaints. With all of these plastic guns, they just are not the same as a 1911, or or metal gun of any type. They seem to work the way they are supposed to, unless you buy an lc9, "which still works", but has over 1/4 of wobble, because according to Ruger, the trigger seized up if firing a lot of rounds quicklly. So instead of fixing the problem they just made extra room for it not to seize.
Like M&P did with the 40 caliber shield magazines, they put a crimp to stop the mag from falling out upon recoil.
Lets face it, unless you spend a grand on a gun, you are going to get a plastic piece of junk that may function well for the next 50 years, but forget about , Tolorences and thousandths of an inch with these guns.
The public decided that $500 was the price that they would spend on a gun, so you are getting guns that cost about 1 hundred to make, the rest goes for Public Relations, packing shipping, graphics, advertising, and all that stuff we don't see. The gun itself has less than a hundred dollars worth of parts inside.
So when we start talking about a small difference on a reset, or creep, or travel, it's no wonder that they all have crappy triggers.
If you want a good gun get a steel gun with quality parts. I am guilty of the same thing, I keep buying "kits" to fix this or that, but by the time you buy all the parts you need to make the dam gun work properlly, you may as well have bought a better gun to start with. Perhaps something that a real gunsmith can hone and polish, instead of crazy glue.
Plus you have no way of knowing if the new part will last, or even worse, get you in trouble if you shoot someone with a "modified" gun.
It's not worth the chance IMO. An action job or a trigger job on a metal gun is much different than a drop in part made to lessen the trigger pull or reset if you end up in a court of law.