New reloader has question(s)...

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned, but as a new reloader you should be aware of (if you’re not already) is that the 38 spl. case has sufficient capacity to allow for a double charge of powder.
If you accidentally do this, especially with the faster-burning powders that are typically used in this cartridge, you will not have a good day !
I use a loading block that holds 50 cases, and long ago got in the habit of charging all 50 cases and visually checking/comparing powder levels before seating any bullets.
This is really not an issue with bottleneck rifle cases or smaller capacity pistol cases (like 9mm or .380, etc.) but can create a dangerous situation in longer straight-walled cases like .38/.357, .41 mag., .44 mag., .45 Colt, etc.
…Just in case you don’t already know.
 
teerex.otw said:
One thing that hasn’t been mentioned, but as a new reloader you should be aware of (if you’re not already) is that the 38 spl. case has sufficient capacity to allow for a double charge of powder.
If you accidentally do this, especially with the faster-burning powders that are typically used in this cartridge, you will not have a good day !
I use a loading block that holds 50 cases, and long ago got in the habit of charging all 50 cases and visually checking/comparing powder levels before seating any bullets.
This is really not an issue with bottleneck rifle cases or smaller capacity pistol cases (like 9mm or .380, etc.) but can create a dangerous situation in longer straight-walled cases like .38/.357, .41 mag., .44 mag., .45 Colt, etc.
…Just in case you don’t already know.
Click to expand...
I hang a small LED flashlight off of my press as a reminder to check charges. I've caught a few this way.
 
On the plated bullets I'd never go up to the max charge.
Look at the Berry,s box. The 38 caliber has a MAXIMUM VELOCITY OF 1,250 FEET PER SECOND.
When I use Bery bullets I like to keep them between 850 to 1,000 FPS.

------------------------------------------

I have two different types of 9mm Berry 9mm bullets.

The top box is 124 grain solid round nose and the velocity is 1,250 FPS.

The bottom box os 124 grain hollow base flat point and the velocity on them is 1,500 FPS.

20230124_064955.jpg

Pay attention to detail and be safe.


All if the 38 caliber Berry bullets I ever bought were 1,250 FPS.
 
teerex.otw said:
One thing that hasn’t been mentioned, but as a new reloader you should be aware of (if you’re not already) is that the 38 spl. case has sufficient capacity to allow for a double charge of powder.
If you accidentally do this, especially with the faster-burning powders that are typically used in this cartridge, you will not have a good day !
I use a loading block that holds 50 cases, and long ago got in the habit of charging all 50 cases and visually checking/comparing powder levels before seating any bullets.
This is really not an issue with bottleneck rifle cases or smaller capacity pistol cases (like 9mm or .380, etc.) but can create a dangerous situation in longer straight-walled cases like .38/.357, .41 mag., .44 mag., .45 Colt, etc.
…Just in case you don’t already know.
Click to expand...
A cheap piece of dowel marked with the proper load is cheap insurance and fits in the box. We will call it a budget powder cop. Several charges of tightgroup will fit no problem. Double charge probably wouldn't be noticeable.
 
A quick reminder to everyone giving truly excellent advice for reloading using a turret or progressive press - the OP is using a Lee Classic Loader kit. The ideas of using loading blocks, different flaring dies, powder droppers and all that are good ones but each defeats the purpose of the Lee Loader.

There is a “trick” to using the expander tool included with the Lee kit to improve the flare for a coated bullet. Use a light brass hobby hammer, 10oz or so, and check to make sure the bullet isn’t being scraped when seated. Once you have the right amount of flare, you’ll be able to recognize it again pretty quickly and the tapping rhythm will just come to you.
 
Soonerpesek said:
Since I don't have access to a manual right at this moment, I can't verify a reference, but in 38SPL--a double charge of Titegroup (or most powders) would put you over +P wouldn't it...??
Click to expand...
I think he meant eyeballing it wouldn't work with Titegroup, a double charge wouldn't be noticeable. Use an improvised measure of case fill.
 
N555 said:
If you load a plated and a jacked bullet over the same powder charge plated will just about always make more pressure.
Click to expand...

I believe this is backward; plated is a thin coat over lead, and jacketed is much harder, and takes more pressure to get it moving down the barrel.

Jacketed has higher pressure requirement than softer plated. Low plated pressure may stick a jacketed bullet in the barrel.
 
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I started with a Lee Loader many winters ago. In .38 Special, of course. What I describe as "the hammer operated" device. The soft hammer (or wooden mallet or club) and the loader is ALL that is needed. Plus components, of course.

The instructions in the kit have load data, the type and the dipper included in the kit. They are fairly light loads, but the whole idea is to be able to load ammunition and shoot it from practically any arm in that caliber right away. And one can. I agree with some others the neck belling 'device' is probably the weakest link in the process. However, it does work.

Start with the information in the kit. I will say, the next item I bought was a loading manual and a manual scale. At that point, one can carefully start increasing loads as shown in the loading manual.

As mentioned, fully jacketed bullets are easier to use as they are less likely to 'snag' on the mouth in loading. (But you can snag things, I managed to do it and still do.) But cast bullets are quite tame as well. And usually loaded milder. At this point, 'mild' loads are not just for beginners, they are normally more pleasant to shoot. For .38 Special, the 'target' wadcutter load is very pleasant to shoot and still quite satisfying. DO NOT get caught up in the 'stop an elephant or Mac truck' fantasy.

Unless you have a specific purpose, plain old cast lead bullets will do everything. Jacket bullet and jacketed hollow point bullets are best for special and dedicated purpose loads.

Read the instructions. Follow directions. Have fun AND keep your fingers.
 
With your single stage press, after you have done all case prep and have the empty cases in loading blocks....

Take one case, drop the powder, visually check, seat a bullet, and place the completed round in another reloading block. I never let a powder charged case leave my hand until a bullet is seated. Never had a short round nor double charge.

After all bullets are seated, then I adjust the die and go back and crimp. A long time ago I found taking the little bit of extra time rather than trying to seat and crimp in one step keeps from shaving lead.
 
eddiememphis said:
I don't know why a new loader should stick to a full metal jacket. You will have to adjust the dies anytime you change bullets.

Hornady 35750 has a cannelure. It's a .357" 158 grain JHP bullet. MidwayUSA and Midsouth both have them in stock.
Click to expand...

Using an FMJ bullet removes a few "extra" considerations, making it easier to continue learning/practicing reloading (less steps one can concentrate perfecting their reloading.). I often recommend a newer reloader start with a tried and true, classic load that has been reloaded millions of times and all problems worked out. I started with 38 Special, Bullseye, 158 gr. LRN, and brass picked up at the local PD range. Need to readjust dies with each bullet change? Normal operating procedure with any change of bullet, FMJ, plated, cast w/lube, cast coated, etc. I would suggest the OP look into Acme coated bullets. Classic styling, no worry about leading, and crimp grooves on their 38 cal. bullets (I started with a Lee Loader in 1970, seated every bullet to the crimp groove and disregarded book OAL. Worked quite well for me for over a year shooting every weekend. I still have 7 or 8 Lee Loaders). https://www.acmebullet.com/Bullets/38Cal/38Cal158SWC-NLG

I would suggest finding a bullet with a cannelure or crimp groove in the weight/profile you choose and keep practicing.

Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun!
 
If I'm using a SS press, soon as I dump powder I load the bullet. No chance of a double or no charge. Most all the time I'm on a AP so I don't have to be concern since it auto index and I run a powder check die.
 
Point taken. The only reason I mentioned a loading block is because that is the way I was taught, and as a safety issue. I was taught “batch” loading, and it has worked well for me for close to 50 years (although I’m seeing several other good methods of double checking here as well).
I’ve used several Lee Loaders over the years (in fact I still have a couple around here somewhere). They can do a good job with a little practice…In fact, Lee even notes cases where benchrest shooters have used their products. The only issue I ever had with them is primer seating. I never liked the idea of seating a primer with a hammer. I purchased a Lee Auto-Prime when they first became available, and it’s all I’ve used since. I prefer the old style to the new, but both work well. Along with a good scale and manual, that is the one other thing I would suggest to a new handloader.
 
Rule3 said:
Why not use coated lead bullets, ?? Cheaper and better than plated IMHO.

https://www.acmebullet.com/Bullets/38Cal

https://missouribullet.com/results.php?category=5&secondary=9
Click to expand...
Using the included mouth expander button to get enough flare not to scrape coated but not so much the case won’t fit back down into the seating die takes a little bit of a trick. The OP will need to try that out and get some practice at it. Again, he’s not using a Mk.VII or RC-II. It’s a Lee Loader kit.
 
AJC1 said:
Like rapid dissembly over...
Click to expand...
But, but, but…. Rooo-guh!!

:rofl:
Yeah I’m pretty sure even The Tank would not like that kind of pressure. Maybe a Contender but, why?
One of the big advantages of the Lee Loader is it’s really hard to accidentally load a double charge. You’d pretty much have to be texting while juggling while painting with your toes and talking to a 14 year old having a personal drama moment to double scoop.
 
GeoDudeFlorida said:
But, but, but…. Rooo-guh!!

:rofl:
Yeah I’m pretty sure even The Tank would not like that kind of pressure. Maybe a Contender but, why?
One of the big advantages of the Lee Loader is it’s really hard to accidentally load a double charge. You’d pretty much have to be texting while juggling while painting with your toes and talking to a 14 year old having a personal drama moment to double scoop.
Click to expand...
When in question dump it out and try again. A scoop takes seconds.
 
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