MIL-DOT
member
First, thanks again to all who chimed in to my recent threads leading up to the purchase of this latest toy (stainless 3" .357) .
Second, credit to BudsGunshop for a very satisfactory sale. After ordering this, I started reading about Ruger's quality control issues,specifically concering canted sights on these pistols. I sent an E-mail to Buds asking if they could/would check the pistol for this problem before shipping, so that I didn't recieve something that I'd have to immediately send off to Ruger for ten friggin' weeks. Bud's responded the next day, and said they would do just that, and told me the pistol was due to ship the first of the week. Though I'm still a little annoyed that they take a full week to ship,the pistol is exactly as it should be,and came at a good price, so thumbs-up to Buds.
Anyway, the trigger/hammer are quite stiff. I would hate to have to pull the hammer back for single action firing more than a few times, after several times, it becomes nearly impossible. Seriously, it's pretty brutal.
The double-action trigger pull has several variations in resistance, and several different sounds,or clicks throughout the pull.
I've been Googling and You-tubing, and using the THR search feature, and it seems this is (more or less) common with this pistol, and the Wolff spring replacement is often recommended.
I'm wondering if a mainspring (trigger spring) replacement is all I need ? This seems to be something I can do myself, anything further, like trigger springs, and I'm dropping it off at my smith ( who was the FFL for this one).
So, the factory spring is 14 pounds, and I'm leaning towards a 12#, but I read that the 11# spring is ideal, and some claim an even lighter spring is fine ( though,regardless, I don't think I'd go lighter than 10#, as I've read about the potential problems with them) .
One other thing. I also have a 6" GP100, and I know Ruger says dry-firing is perfectly fine, and I've read that this is a great way to fix-up the trigger issues without modification ( like 1000 dry-fires). Some folks say that you should insert expended rounds into the cyclinder when doing this. Yes?No?
Anyway, sorry for the long post, any further enlightenment much appreciated....
Second, credit to BudsGunshop for a very satisfactory sale. After ordering this, I started reading about Ruger's quality control issues,specifically concering canted sights on these pistols. I sent an E-mail to Buds asking if they could/would check the pistol for this problem before shipping, so that I didn't recieve something that I'd have to immediately send off to Ruger for ten friggin' weeks. Bud's responded the next day, and said they would do just that, and told me the pistol was due to ship the first of the week. Though I'm still a little annoyed that they take a full week to ship,the pistol is exactly as it should be,and came at a good price, so thumbs-up to Buds.
Anyway, the trigger/hammer are quite stiff. I would hate to have to pull the hammer back for single action firing more than a few times, after several times, it becomes nearly impossible. Seriously, it's pretty brutal.
The double-action trigger pull has several variations in resistance, and several different sounds,or clicks throughout the pull.
I've been Googling and You-tubing, and using the THR search feature, and it seems this is (more or less) common with this pistol, and the Wolff spring replacement is often recommended.
I'm wondering if a mainspring (trigger spring) replacement is all I need ? This seems to be something I can do myself, anything further, like trigger springs, and I'm dropping it off at my smith ( who was the FFL for this one).
So, the factory spring is 14 pounds, and I'm leaning towards a 12#, but I read that the 11# spring is ideal, and some claim an even lighter spring is fine ( though,regardless, I don't think I'd go lighter than 10#, as I've read about the potential problems with them) .
One other thing. I also have a 6" GP100, and I know Ruger says dry-firing is perfectly fine, and I've read that this is a great way to fix-up the trigger issues without modification ( like 1000 dry-fires). Some folks say that you should insert expended rounds into the cyclinder when doing this. Yes?No?
Anyway, sorry for the long post, any further enlightenment much appreciated....
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