new to blackpowder question...

[Superpsy]

Okay, so I won a blackpowder rifle at yesterday's friends of NRA event. Yay! Now I am a complete newb to blackpowder shooting. I've never done anything like it.

What kind of rifle do I have? The markings on it at Jukar, Spain and an early serial number in the eight thousands.

What's the value? (insurance purposes)

Where do I start? I honestly have no clue where to start. I guess I could using a basic Blackpowder shooting for Dummies or Blackpowder 101. Even a basic breakdown of how this thing works would help. I have a basic idea (e.g. I know I need powder, a percussion cap and a ball) Help?

 

[mykeal]

Read the Blackpowder Essentials sticky at the beginning of this forum.

 

[Superpsy]

thanks...i read it but it didn't answer my questions. The threads in the sticky are great but assume I have a working knowledge of how everything works...

 

[target1911]

I am willing to bet that you could do a google search of BP and many results....not to mention you could find a BP forum to check out too

 

[4v50 Gary]

You have a percussion cap rifle that is styled like a Kentucky rifle. Actually, it's a rather liberal interpretation of the long rifle but who cares? It's all about fun. It's about .45 caliber so you might want to get a variety of balls and patches of varying thicknesses. You also want to get a .45 caliber jag to clean the gun with, a .45 caliber stuck ball remover and a .45 caliber worm.

OK, that all guessing on my part & I don't know what you've got. Post a pic and we can tell you more.

 

[arcticap]

I have an unfired Jukar Kentucky caplock rifle in .45 caliber, with a barrel that's about 33 inches long. It was imported from Spain by CVA in the late 1970's, early 1980's. The quality of these guns is fair, and they do have somewhat of a following even to this day.
Jukar also made a Kentucky pistol that can cost up to about $100 used.
The value of a Jukar Kentucky rifle really depends on it's condition, about $125 used and up to $175 or more if it's unfired.
The flintlock version isn't quite as desirable as the percussion model.

Try to find one of the books by Sam Fadala to learn all there is to know about muzzle loading.

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=302422

If you read enough posts on this traditional muzzle loading website, you can also learn a lot about it too. Click on my personal referal link to register for free and have access to the entire site:

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/fusionbb.php?referral/4225/

Or try to locate some friendly local muzzle loader shooters and ask them to show you how it's done. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a muzzle loader shooter at a gun club range since deer season is approaching.

 

[SASS#23149]

uh...Target1911...

isn't THIS a bp forum?

 

[Superpsy]

thanks for your help so far...I'll definitely try the Sam Fadala book.

Here's some pics...

 

[Niner]

Watson, if what you have is the same as CVA Kentucky Rifle in .45 cal, Fadala suggests a powder charge of from 50 FFg to 75 FFg maximum...used with caution at maximum charge. Although Fadala's comment was that he found the 75 grain load optimum for deer hunting at over 50 yards. Shots made at 50 yards or less the 50FFg would be the winner according to Fadala's loading manual. The book discription says 33.5 inch length on barrel with 1:66 twist. 7/8" across flats. The data suggests using .015 patch as well as .440" 128 gr ball ammo....although the book shows this rifle in the flint version and not percussion.

I'd do a google search for CVA, if that is the actual responsible company, and see if you can get a download manuel as to suggested loads though.

My data comes from The Gun Digest Black Powder Loading Manuel by Sam Fadala....old as dirt edition.

One other thing... that two piece stock isn't a good feature...probably the worst feature. I have a .50 CVA made much the same way I made from a kit years ago. Rifle shoots fine but the stock has a way of pulling slightly apart after a shooting session requiring some adjustment.....like bouncing the butt of the rifle against a sand bag.

 

[Tinker]

Watson,

Make sure that the powder you use is real Black Powder (Goex, Swiss, Kik) or a BP substitute (Pyrodex, TripleSeven). Smokeless powders would be unsafe in your BP rifle. BP and subs are measured by volumn, not scale weight. TripleSeven is also a tad more powerful than real BP and Pyrodex, so you have to use about 20% less.

BP comes in different granulations. FFG or FFFG would be the best. (RS in Pyrodex.)

Also, with real BP and subs make sure that you know how to properly clean your weapon before you ever shoot it. The white puff of smoke from your gun means: "Clean me. And soon." All these powders leave corrosive residues. You can't fudge on this or your bore will pay.


BTW, congrats on the rifle. That kind of thing never happens to me.