New to BP Revolvers, Questions about them

[Chance265]

I am new to black powder shooting and I have a lot of questions regarding getting started. Note that I while I am new to BP I am not new to firearms, I just want to know as much as I can.

First, are there any cheap screwdriver sets that would work well for disassembling an Uberti 1860 Army, and other Colt replicas in the future? According to a video by Mike Beliveau I need a 180-3, 240-4, and 340-4 sized screw driver head.

Second, regarding cleaning, how often is a complete disassembly of everything including the trigger assembly needed? I rarely do a full cleaning of the trigger assembly on my semi autos, and they have continued to function fine, although I do realize that blackpowder (or in my case Pyrodex) fouls quite a bit more. I do plan on doing a full cleaning of the assembly before shooting it, but how often after? Every 100 shots? Every other range trip? This is of course referring to the trigger assembly, the gun will be cleaned after every trip.

Also, will ballistol and water work fine for cleaning Pyrodex fouling, and CLP for lubricating? Once again this is from Mike's video and the fact that I use CLP on my other guns. Mike used a .375 jag and a .357 jag for his Navy, will a basic 44/45 jag work for the Army? I don't remember what the cylinder is bored to (around .447 or so right?) but if it matters I would appreciate exactly what size jag works, considering I don't have any at all.

After checking the only nearby dealer in blackpowder supplies that I know of, they say they have been out of Remington #10's for a while. From what I know most of the Uberti's are #10's and although I will if its necessary, I'd rather not pinch #11's. Are they tough to get a hold of or is it just the shop? If there is some #10 percussion cap crisis going on, are there any quality #11 nipples I can get a hold of? If I am correct, the Slix Shot nipples are only #10's.

From what I remember off the top of my head, these are all the questions I have but I may ask for more help in the future. If any of them seem stupid or obvious then sorry I guess, I am trying to learn as much as I possibly can as opposed to just going for it and hoping it turns out well. This forum has been very helpful and interesting so far and hopefully I can start shooting soon. Thanks in advance for any help I receive. I can hardly wait to start, I really think the blackpowder revolvers are the best looking guns around and I love the history behind them.

 

[Foto Joe]

First, are there any cheap screwdriver sets that would work well for disassembling an Uberti 1860 Army, and other Colt replicas in the future? According to a video by Mike Beliveau I need a 180-3, 240-4, and 340-4 sized screw driver head.

Check out MidwayUSA.com, you'll probably find what you need there.

Second, regarding cleaning, how often is a complete disassembly of everything including the trigger assembly needed? I rarely do a full cleaning of the trigger assembly on my semi autos, and they have continued to function fine, although I do realize that blackpowder (or in my case Pyrodex) fouls quite a bit more. I do plan on doing a full cleaning of the assembly before shooting it, but how often after? Every 100 shots? Every other range trip? This is of course referring to the trigger assembly, the gun will be cleaned after every trip.

It's probably a very good idea to do a complete strip down when you purchase the gun either new or used. Once that is done depending upon how often you shoot and what you use for lubrication it's a once or twice per year deal. If you shoot Colts pattern guns it's an easy task and nothing to get paranoid about.

Also, will ballistol and water work fine for cleaning Pyrodex fouling, and CLP for lubricating? Once again this is from Mike's video and the fact that I use CLP on my other guns. Mike used a .375 jag and a .357 jag for his Navy, will a basic 44/45 jag work for the Army? I don't remember what the cylinder is bored to (around .447 or so right?) but if it matters I would appreciate exactly what size jag works, considering I don't have any at all.

This particular question will get a lot of different responses but the only correct answer is what works for you. I use Ballistol 1:1 with water for all Black Powder cleaning and straight Ballistol for all lubrication. Ballistol is slightly alkaline and will offset the slight acidity of Black Powder fouling. The Ballistol that winds up in the action will combine with the fouling to form a black grease like substance that will coat parts and in my experience does a pretty darn good job of protecting the metal from corrosion. I personally can't say enough good about Ballistol and one of its major advantages as far as I'm concerned is that it's non-toxic. One note though: DON'T try to use it to clean smokeless guns, it doesn't work!!

After checking the only nearby dealer in blackpowder supplies that I know of, they say they have been out of Remington #10's for a while. From what I know most of the Uberti's are #10's and although I will if its necessary, I'd rather not pinch #11's. Are they tough to get a hold of or is it just the shop? If there is some #10 percussion cap crisis going on, are there any quality #11 nipples I can get a hold of? If I am correct, the Slix Shot nipples are only #10's.

Proper cap fit can be a bit of a learning curve. The only caps I can ever find are CCI's and I use mostly #11's but I do have an old ASM Dragoon with stock nipples that takes the #10's. I'm not a fan of "pinching" caps either but not because of the inconvenience. If you have to pinch them then they don't fit and if they don't fit you may eventually find out what a chain fire feels like.

As you've probably already learned in life, there are no "stupid questions." As the replies to your post begin to come in you'll find that the answers to your questions will vary. Here again, use what works for you, we all tend to do things a little differently.

 

[kituwa]

Wal mart has a gun screw driver set in the sporting goods section, its around $13.00. For cleaning i use a .45 wire brush and just put a patch over it so i dont use a jag. No need to completely tear the whole gun down to clean it every time. These guns are pretty simple though and its not hard to learn to tear them down and they are easy to put back together. There are exploded views on the net that makes it simple if you have trouble the first few times. The Remingtons have a small screw that has to be removed to get the hammer and the cylinder hand out that is hard to find until you see where its at but other than that the Rem. and colt are pretty much the same to tear down.Not nearly as many screws on the Rem. too. Most people use warm soapy water to clean them, it works as good as any of the commercial products for cleaning. You will need a good nipple wrench.Most of the wrenches are low quality and wont last long. Its a good idea to use a small amound of anti seize grease on the nipple threads so they wont cause as much trouble over time. I just use the little tubes of grease made for shotgun choke tubes. As far as caps, no two guns are the same even if the guns are the same brand.Its worth the money to get a set of tresso or slix shot nipples.Also you can go by cap size much. It means nothing as every brand of #10 or #11 caps are diffrent sizes. You will have to just try sever brands/sizes of caps till you find the one that works best. Thats not easy now days because the caps are hard to find. Remington #10's will prolly be your best bet on fitting well if you can find them. If the gun you get is a Colt, there will likely be a few things you will need to do to it that will make it work better for you. Mostly having to do with the arbor and wedge but its not a big deal. There are a lot of people here that can help you when you get your gun. It sounds like you have already been reading up about the diffrent guns and that is great. They are really simple guns and not as much to it asit may sound like from reading here on the forum, a lot uf us just like to tinker but for the most part the gun will be good to go as soon as you bring it home.

 

[Chance265]

Thanks for the responses guys. Ill check Midway right after I post this, and I'll check out Treso too.

 

[J-Bar]

You will normally find some blackpowder shooters at Cowboy Action Matches. Here is a link to the Single Action Shooting Society clubs in California. I hope you will go watch a few matches. Call the club contact and find out if there are going to be blackpowder shooters attending. The Soot Lords will be glad to coach you. Who knows, you might find out you are a cowboy!!

Have fun.

http://www.sassnet.com/clubs/Clubs_list.php?state=California

 

[rodwha]

Chapman's screwdriver set came highly recommended. They are fairly inexpensive, but of high quality, and American made.

I bought the smaller of their two sets offered at Dixie Gun Works, and it's taken down and reassembled my Ruger Old Army many times.

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/produ...cts_id=2787&osCsid=aj1fobvqqjsu380ru21jq7lua7

 

[Dframe]

Brownells also fairly inexpensive screwdriver sets. As far as complete stripping see fotojoes post above. I like Bore butter for lubrication but as said whatever works for you. cap to nipple fit is one of those irritating things you simply must work out for yourself. seems everyone has a different approach. Tresco nipples work well but are pricey at around $30 a set. Most people who shoot revolvers eventually start using a capper of some sort for simplicity of handling those annoyingly tiny caps. I personally have a small wood dowell I use to gently seat caps fully on the nipple after capping.
I use spent cases as measures for powder but the flask nipples work well too. just be sure to measure (weigh) the charges it's throwing. You'll soon find the load that works best for you.