New to reloading, have some questions

[Spazed]

I've been looking around THR and some other places for some specific info, but cannot find it. So I figured I would ask the fine minds that gather here.

1. When tumbling cases I have gotten the outsides nice and shiny, but the insides still look like they have some blackening inside. Is this any issue?

2. I have been thinking about a Lock N Load AP, but have read that progressive presses might be too advanced for a novice reloader. Any truth to that? It just seems like the time saved would be worth it.

3. I'd rather buy lead-free primers, but I can't find them locally(Kansas City), anyone know of a major chain stores carry them? I can always buy online I guess.

4. Anything else I should know?

Thanks for any advice, I've been lurking THR for a while now and think I'll like it here.

 

[rfwobbly]

Danger! Thar be dragons!

Spazed -
Welcome to THR and Reloading !!

1) No, spotless inside and out is not a requirement. Cleaning cases itself is only a balm for our sensitive egos. Other than wiping off the dirt, nothing else is needed.

2) With a progressive you got 4 or 5 things going on at once. Once you get it humming it goes great, but getting it there is another story. It would be like learning to drive a car for the first time, using a stick shift, in 5 o'clock rush hour traffic, and the car's engine likes to overheat. It's simply going to be a symphony of headaches.

Now if your buddy had a single-stage and you could go over to his house and reload on that for 6 months, then you'd be in a much better position and be far more prepared. That might be OK.

3) All primers are lead free. I believe you mean mercury-free. If you'll simply wash your hands after shooting and reloading, then there's nothing really to worry about unless you're addicted to shooting in unventilated ranges.

4) You should know that reloading itself is highly addictive. It is so soothing that massive quantities of endorphins are released to the brain. Near the end you throw away all your guns and simply reload. When not reloading, you're on THR talking with other reloading junkies about reloading.

If you ever get up at 2AM to check the kids or put out the dog, you go check your man cave to make sure everything is lubricated and in its place. You might get up again at 5AM just to check the batteries in your digital caliper.

In short, it's worse than you heard.

 

[918v]

1. Dirty inside is OK. Clean is better, but alot more work.

2. Start off with a single stage press like a Redding Big Boss II. Simpler, easier, better results.

3. Buy standard primers. Buy samples of all the brands you can get your hands on. Forget the lead free crap.

4. Before you start reloading, learn and understand what's going on inside your gun first. Ask alot of questions. It will make your reloading effort alot more pleasant.

 

[jsmith6541]

I started reloading pistol cartridges on a LNL (first time reloading). Did alot of reading before purchasing the press. I started by using all five stations (the forth being an RCBS powder check lock out die) but only cycling one case at a time, carefully watching and paying attention to each stage. Once that one case was complete and dropped into the receiving tray, I would add the next case in station 1 and again carefully watch and pay close attention to each stage in the cycle. I would check each cartridge for overall length and test it in a pistol barrel to confirm consistency. As I became more comfortable, I began reloading progressively (five cases in the press cycling at the same time) but moved VERY slowly.
I humbly respect when others suggest a single stage to start with and I completely understand, but I wanted a press I could "grow into" as well. I chose to start with a progressive press but was/am more than willing to take my time learning to utilize it. I am also very willing to listen to suggestions/advice from more experienced reloaders.

In my opinion (take it with a grain of salt as I am a new reloader) the RCBS powder check lock out die is well worth the expense.....It seems to work like a charm and provides and added level of safety when loading on a progressive press.

I don't currently shoot much rifle (not enough to warrant reloading), but when I do, I can see myself buying a single stage for those cartridges.

I've been using, for pistol brass, a mixture of very hot water, citric acid (1 tsp for every 2 qts of water) and a few drops of dish detergent. I add the brass to the 1 gal plastic spackle bucket, agitate for a minute, let sit for 5 minutes, agitate again, let sit for another 10 minutes, then remove the brass and rinse it many times with hot water. I then lay them out on a towel overnight. The brass comes out very clean. I've not had ANY problems with FTF or FTE.

Be safe and shoot often!

 

[red-demon652]

reloading answers

You will love reloading. Its a verry high time consuming aperation to getstarted,but verry rewarding. Ask a close freind that reloads to help you get started,read lotsa books about reloading aswell.You can usualy find books about reloading at your local sporting goods store. Have fun.

 

[cfullgraf]

rfwobbly pretty much said it.

For me, the addiction gets bad that i want to reload, but I don't have any more space for ammunition storage and I have not been able to go "unload" any to make space and generate empty cases.

While I feel it is better to learn the basics on a single stage, you can break down the steps on the progressive so that not so much is happening at one time. For instance, resize and expand the case at one time. When all the cases are down, run them through and prime them. Finally set up the powder charge and bullet seating and do the actual loading.

Other information posted is good as well.

Once you are comfortable with the individual operations, you can put it all together.

 

[P-32]

3) All primers are lead free. I believe you mean mercury-free. If you'll simply wash your hands after shooting and reloading, then there's nothing really to worry about unless you're addicted to shooting in unventilated ranges.

You might have had lead free primers 50 years ago when they used a mercury compound for the 100 years before that. The mercury priming compound is what made the primers corrosive. Today primers are made with lead compounds. And yes, washing your hands is important to help avoid having too much lead in your blood.

I don't know of anyone selling lead free primers. I also believe you would have to open up the flash hole to use the lead frees.

 

[Lost Sheep]

Welcome

Thanks for asking our advice and good luck with your reloading. Welcome to the forum.

Reloading ain't rocket science, but it does involve things that go boom, so be safe, always, all ways. Wear eye protection, especially when working with primers and don't pinch your fingers in your press.

To let us give you the best advice, you should tell us what you will be reloading for, what kind of quantities and maybe a little bit about yourself, your mechanical skills, shooting goals, etc.

I have gathered together some reference sites you might like to view:

"TheHighRoad.com" has a sticky, "For the New Reloader: Thinking about Reloading; Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST"
http://www.thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214

"Budget Beginning bench you will never outgrow for the novice handloader". This was informed by my recent (July 2010) repopulation of my loading bench.
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/293...you-will-never-outgrow-novice-handloader.html

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391
Post 11 (subject: Here's my reloading setup, which I think you might want to model, November 21, 2010) and 13 (subject: 10 Advices for the novice handloader, November 21, 2010)

I have more, but these will get you started, especially the "10 Advices..." post.

Lost Sheep

 

[Sommerled]

Welcome to the forum!

Lost sheep said it well. The eye protection thing is a must, always! Also read, read, and read some more. It is not very difficult at all.

I started on a LnL progressive 11 years ago. I did not get a single stage until 8 years ago.

Made safe and accurate 45 auto ammo the first day and have never had an issue that wasn't solved with attention to detail. I did study the concepts for several evenings before I cranked the press into action though.

In short, if you have a modicum of mechanical ability, can concentrate on the details, and have the desire to learn, you will have no problem starting on a progressive press for pistol calibers.

I agree with the other posters that if you don't have a mechanical mind you would be better off starting with a single stage (which is so tedious for volume loading).

But some folks seem to be like the backhoe guy that dug out the foundation hole for my house. He talked about how it took years to learn how to operate his machine proficiently. Several weeks latter I rented a backhoe to put in my geothermal lines. Having never operated one, I asked the renter to familiarize me with what each lever did. By lunchtime that first day the hoe was an extension of my hand. I am sure many others could do the same.

Happy reloading!

 

[tunnug]

If you can get or already have the single stage, use it for about 6-8 months and really get to know the steps before moving on to the progressive, if you start with the progressive take it nice and easy and make sure your settings stay where you put them, eventually you'll want to go to rifle rounds and the single stage is the one you'll want to use, so getting one first won't be money lost when you move on to high speed reloading.
I started with a single stage and now have two progressives and three single stage set up to go at any time, enjoy your new addiction.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Welcome to the forum and to reloading.

Once you get going come back with any questions you come up with and I'm sure you will get a quick and correct answer.

 

[gamestalker]

I'm going to go with clean inside and especially so after the first or second cycle. I find it much easier to identifying first signs of separation or fractures I might other wise miss. But thats just me I guess. I kind of look at a little time in the tumbler as worth it, and it doesn't cost me anything but time.
I started with a single stage press and now have several. I don't have anything against progressive presses, I think I just enjoy the time I spend with the over all process. But on a practicle note, I really think a single stage press will benefit you by allowing you the opportunity to dedicate your attention exclusively to each step.
I buy primers simply based on what has been working well for me over the years, and make no other consideration than that. Basically it's CCI and Winchester if I can't find CCIs. I never used any others except for shotgun.
Make sure you have a scale of decent quality to check your powder charges.
Buy at least a couple quality hand loading book. Lee and Hornady are good ones to start with.
A dial caliper is essential.
Loading blocks
Case lube, I like the spray on, but there are lots of other's that have great reviews.
A case trimmer is a must have. I use the inexpensive Lee trimmer. It attaches to your drill and once you buy the base and cutter, about $12, you only need to buy the shell holder and case length guage for each cartridge application. About $8 - $10 for both.
Powder funnel. Your wife's baking funnel won't work as a substitute is you charge each case individually.
A ream and chamfer tool is necessay. I use the Lee for handgun cases and an RCBS for bottle neck cases. Just a personal prefrence.
Good luck, and welcome to the High Road.
Primer pocket cleaning tool.

 

[Spazed]

Thanks all for the responses and warm welcome.

I'm primarily a handgun guy. I shoot a few hundred rounds a week when it is warm out and a tiny bit less when there is snow on the ground.

I'd like to start with 45ACP, but I also shoot 9mm and 40SW. My father shoots 380, so that might be something down the line, no where near enough brass collected for that yet to make it worth it.

As far as rifles go, I really only do 22s and shotgun. I can shoot on my own property, but the longest clear shot is about 150m so a 22 will reach out far enough for me.

With my pistols I do a bit of everything; speed shooting, distance, self defense, etc.

Fiocchi lead free primers: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=376261 You'd think I'd be able to find them locally since they are made a few hours from here.

Thanks for all the replies, I'm sure I'll have questions once I get everything started. Though I'm changing jobs soon so it might take a while for me to get started now.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have some reading to do.

I'm a computer programmer and engineer, so I am fairly mechanically inclined. I'm also a geek so I tend to "Read, read, read some more then go master" something. I don't do anything I'm interested in halfway.

 

[MarkDozier]

Hornady has good videos for the L-N-L on-line. I watched they on my laptop. then ran them as reference when doing setup. Pause is a wonderful thing.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Spazed,
There really is no reason to spend all that money on "heavy metal free" primers. CCI or Winchester primers @ $29.99/1000 are just fine, really... When you do the math those are #35.99/1000. As a matter of fact Cabela's just ran a sale on CCI SR primers @ $19.99/1000. Wash your hands after loading and shooting and you will be in no danger at all from the primers, bullets or anything else. Just don't eat them... hehe

 

[GLOOB]

3. I'd rather buy lead-free primers, but I can't find them locally(Kansas City), anyone know of a major chain stores carry them? I can always buy online I guess.

Most of the brass you acquire will be made for normal primers. I believe that lead-free primers generate higher pressure, so the brass for those generally have a larger flash hole. Sometimes, the primers are also crimped in place.

If you use high pressure lead-free primers, I'm wondering if you might get less firings before primers started to fall out.