new to reloading M1a school me

Status
Not open for further replies.

JO JO

Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2011
Messages
2,799
Location
U.S.A.
so I ordered a M1a socom 16 308/7.62 I do load for 308 bolt action and other calibers but the M1a is new for me ,
I remember reading that they prefer a certain powder range due to there gas system or op rod ?
H4895 ? Tac ? or ?
any known good loads to start with ? preferred bullet weights ? or M80 ball surplus ? military or commercial brass ?
any and all input would be great as the M1a world is new to me
Thanks
 
I use both 4895's, but prefer Varget.
Hornady 9th Edition and beyond has loads for gas ops.
Requires full sizing.
 
I load for a national match, so not sure if the shorter barrel of the socom will have any difference...

The risks of loading for the M1A with regards to powder is pressure. Too slow of powder or too hot of a load will risk damage to the op-rod. Varget, as I understand it, is on the edge of too slow. Some people do fine with it, while others have reported damaged op-rod with it. There are ways to mitigate op-rod damage, like using grooved gas piston, adjustable gas block, not loading hot, etc.

I use imr4895 to load 168 sierra mk or 168 nosler cc.

The other thing to look out for is brass separation. The M1A is known to be hard on brass...so size carefully and check for case head separation frequently. Average seems to be about 3 reloads (4x total fired) if using good brass. YMMV.

Have fun!
 
Peels advice is excellent. Once you start loading for M1/M1A rifles, shoulder bump and primer pocket uniforming become critical issues.
 
The Hornady loading manual has a service section with .308 load data specific for the M1A

I’m pretty sure the Sierra manual does as well.

Have fun with it. My M1A is what got me into reloading.

To add: my favorite load was a mild 38.6g H4895, 155g AMAX, CCI primer, Lake City brass, OAL 2.820”. Sub MOA 5 shot groups
 
Last edited:
I use IMR4895, BLC2 and lately mostly WC846 (cheap) in my scout squad. I tend to load light to midrange loads (low 40's) with pulled bulk 150 fmj's. It really likes 175 $MK's but ouch. Expensive.
I have found more powder and higher velocity does not equate to accuracy, wastes powder and is hard on brass. I haven't really heard of op rod issues with these.
My scout can usually hold 2-3 moa with irons. These aren't precision rifles.
I used Hornady service rifle data to develop loads and really enjoy shooting it. My favorite rifle. After all these years it still puts a smile on my face.
The M14 forum has a lot of load data andM1A tips.
 
I’m still shooting surplus and collecting brass from my m1a. I am tagging this thread for wisdom.
 
I've been loading for my Socom for over 10 years, with some success... and some failures.

1) As was mentioned above, gas volume is key for the M1a action. Sticking with powders in the IMR3031-IMR4895-IMR4064 range will keep you out of trouble unless you are just hard on the furniture. I would not recommend Varget to a novice M1a reloader, it's a powder that requires some skill to load with in the M1a (that's my OPINION.) BL-C(2), TAC, W748, most powders in that burn range are good.

2) Brass is a big question, most say use military brass because it's thicker, I agree... except I would avoid using anyone's 'once-fired' brass. If it is once-fired military, it was very likely fired in a machine gun; you can beat it back into shape, but sometimes this can be more trouble than it's worth. Some champion LC (Lake City) military brass, because of the experience I have had with it, I am NOT a big fan of it... and I have pretty much sworn off it. Now that Winchester is running the LC plant, things may change... we will see. The majority of my M1a brass is from MY once-fired Prvi 145grn FMJ 'white box' ammos. Be careful about buying some older surplus... much of it is Berdan primed and not reloadable without special tools. I have some RG (Radway Green, British) surplus still left... it's my blasting ammo when I know I won't be able to recover the brass. Like the rifle itself, the brass will require some amount of prep in between loadings, mostly trim-to length and looking for cases that are separating. Military brass is heavier than typical commercial brass, which translates to less internal volume. You have to develop your loads accordingly; do not work up in commercial cases, then arbitrarily switch to military brass without reducing and working back up.

3) I like the 150's for blasting, but I'll load 168grn BTHP's for accuracy work. Lighter bullets work, too. You can shoot 175's in the M1a, I do not. My standard M80 equivalent load is (was) 43.5grn IMR4895 and any ~150grn bullet in Prvi brass. I say was... when I have worked through my 32# of IMR4895, I'll be moving to IMR3031 for the Socom, or possibly TAC, but that will be a while. H or IMR4895 is still a very good powder to start with.

4) Rifle mods. Best and easiest way to improve accuracy on a Socom is to shim the front gas lock... about a $5 mod. I also have a aftermarket (Sadlak) gas piston and guide rod, but those are not necessarily necessary. I have replaced the rear aperture with a standard. I do not intend to put optics on mine, so I've removed the rail mounted on the barrel. It was also hitting the corner of the op rod and nicking it... something to look at if you intend to keep the rail on the gun.

5) Maintenance. As was mentioned, get a good book on the M1a for maintenance. You will need appropriate drill bits to clean the gas port and gas plug. You should have a bolt disassembly tool, a ratcheting chamber brush, and a bolt roller grease thingamajig.

6) Only buy CMI (Checkmate Industries) magazines.

7) Buy lots of ammos. Once you start pulling the trigger, you won't want to stop.
 
Dug up my notes on load info...for reference only. Please work up your own load.

Standard load...plenty accurate (1 to 1.25 moa)
40.0 IMR4895
CCI#34 primer
LC brass
Nosler 168CC 2.800COL
2520fps (75f)

Accurate load (0.75 moa). Used it in a precision rifle match once. Ok at ringing steel out to 600 yards (full size ipsc).
41.5 IMR4895
CCI#34 primer
LC brass
Sierra 168HPBT 2.800COL
2600fps (75F)
 
CCI#34 primer

AH! I knew I forgot something...

8) Make sure you primers as at least flush with the case head, or, better, a few thousandths below flush. The #34 primer peels mentions is an 'arsenal' primer meant for semi-automatic firearms with a floating firing pin... like the M1 or M1a. Harder cup, to reduce the chance of a slam-fire, the are also available in the SR #41 primer, too. Many don't use them, and that's OK, too... but the key is to make sure that primer is flush or below flush!
 
Dug up my notes on load info...for reference only. Please work up your own load.

Standard load...plenty accurate (1 to 1.25 moa)
40.0 IMR4895
CCI#34 primer
LC brass
Nosler 168CC 2.800COL
2520fps (75f)

Accurate load (0.75 moa). Used it in a precision rifle match once. Ok at ringing steel out to 600 yards (full size ipsc).
41.5 IMR4895
CCI#34 primer
LC brass
Sierra 168HPBT 2.800COL
2600fps (75F)


If your getting .75 moa from a m1a that is quite an acomplishment.

which m1a are you shooting and whart mods have you done to it ?

i have a friend who has a fortune into his national match and gets 1 moa on a good day. I would love to get my scout squad to consistantly hold 2 moa but have just about given up.

please learn me something
 
If your getting .75 moa from a m1a that is quite an acomplishment.

which m1a are you shooting and whart mods have you done to it ?

It is a bone stock SAI National Match....other than a GI replacement hammer. The original cast hammer broke.

Maybe I just got lucky during load development, but this is what I got:

M1A_workup.JPG

This is 10 shots after zeroing it right before the match. Note that this was using factory seconds from Midway.

M1A_10_shots.JPG
 
please learn me something

There are a number of things you can do to tidy up an M1a, some are easy, some quite involved. Stock fitment is key. My Socom came in a USGI fiberglass stock... I don't like glass, so I swapped it into a new (surplus) walnut stock. I couldn't get the accuracy I was looking for, so on a fluke, I swapped it back into the glass stock and *bam!* my groups improved by about 1" at 100yds. There are other things...

Unitizing the stock ferrule

Shimming the gas lock

Reaming the flash hider

...and good load development with a bullet it likes. My Socom likes the 168grn Nosler CC, but it really likes the SMK... it is a tangible difference. YMMV.
 
One day I may try some of those accurizing mods. I'm too scared that I might mess up the mods and make it worse...
 
thanks for all the input one more question is a small base die preferred or full length die ?
 
I use a Lee FL die. I have not needed to go to a small base die yet. I found no issues sizing down machine gun fired brass...just make sure you use an appropriate amount of good lube. I use lanolin alcohol home made mix.
 
thanks for all the input one more question is a small base die preferred or full length die ?

Try a FL die first. SB dies are usually only required with a very tight (match) chamber or some other anomaly, and they tend to overwork the brass. My old crusty RCBS .308 die works just fine across 3 very different .308 rifles, including the Socom.
 
As has been related in any of the hundred other threads on this same subject, buy the Hornady, Speer, or Lyman 50; they have sections on reloading that rifle.
 
I have the manuals but it is also nice to draw input from folks that have the rifle ,
 
It is a bone stock SAI National Match....other than a GI replacement hammer. The original cast hammer broke.

Maybe I just got lucky during load development, but this is what I got:

View attachment 916811

This is 10 shots after zeroing it right before the match. Note that this was using factory seconds from Midway.

View attachment 916813

sometimes the stars just align and you get a good one
I know people that have over 3k in their rifles to get 1moa.

nice shooting
 
what would you guys suggest for bulk type factory ammo , M80 LC ? PPU ? or ?
thinking I will order one of those 200 round type packs to start off with then reload the brass
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top