ROK'N THUNDER
Member
Does the S&W model 17 have a recessed cylinder?
New used Model 17 - 5
- Thread starter ROK'N THUNDER
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CajunBass
Member
Yes. Rimfire models have recessed cylinders.
OP
OP
ROK'N THUNDER
Member
Bless you
Tnanks
Tnanks
NIGHTLORD40K
Member
17s are awesome, youll love it!
The chambers are a little tight on mine, and it doesnt like Winchesters (they bind a bit on extraction), but every other brand Ive tried chambers and ejects fine. My most accurate handgun for sure.
OP
OP
ROK'N THUNDER
Member
I here they're very accurate and the K frame fits me the best.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
I have a 17-3 with a 6” barrel that I like very much. Mine seems to like CCI Stinger and Aguila Super Extra 40 grain ammunition for best accuracy. Though the Aguila is snug in the chambers when loading.
ROK’N THUNDER,
I am sure you will like the model 17. When I bought mine I also got a model 19-4. They both have 6” barrels. I intended to have 4” barrels installed on both but after a while I decided I liked them both just the way they are.
ROK’N THUNDER,
I am sure you will like the model 17. When I bought mine I also got a model 19-4. They both have 6” barrels. I intended to have 4” barrels installed on both but after a while I decided I liked them both just the way they are.
Riomouse911
Member
Model 17’s are fantastic firearms, IMHO they are the best of the rimfire revolvers.
My 17-3 and 48-4 WMR pair (The 48 now wears the same finger groove stocks, they fit my hand much better than the factory grip panels do.)
The 48 spitting a bit of fire at the range.
As was stated above, you’ll love the 17 by the time the first box gets fired through it.
Stay safe.
My 17-3 and 48-4 WMR pair (The 48 now wears the same finger groove stocks, they fit my hand much better than the factory grip panels do.)
The 48 spitting a bit of fire at the range.
As was stated above, you’ll love the 17 by the time the first box gets fired through it.
Stay safe.
My Model 17's are the top two, an 8-3/8" and a 6". The bottom one is a Model 18 with a 4" barrel.
Mine have some difficult extraction issues with some brands of 22 LR as well.
The chambers are a little tight on mine, and it doesnt like Winchesters (they bind a bit on extraction), but every other brand Ive tried chambers and ejects fine. My most accurate handgun for sure.
Mine have some difficult extraction issues with some brands of 22 LR as well.
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P5 Guy
Member
Model 17 no dash made in 1959.
CajunBass
Member
One thing I've found help with sticky extraction on S&W and other 22's, is to use a patch cut from a "lead wipe away" cloth. Just cut a patch small enough to fit tight in the chambers. They're slightly abrasive, so they'll scrub out all that powder, bullet lube and such that builds up in there. Use a couple or so per charge hole. Then clean as normal.
Use caution around the outside. They will damage blue guns. I've never damaged any of mine, but be aware that it can.
Use caution around the outside. They will damage blue guns. I've never damaged any of mine, but be aware that it can.
NIGHTLORD40K
Member
When I first noticed the binding issue with Win. ammo, I cleaned the snot out of my chambers, but the issue persisted. Interestingly, my Springfield M1922 wont chamber Winchesters at all, but has no problem with Federal, Remington, or Aguila. I can only surmise that Winchester .22s have microscopically fatter brass.
I have several different brands of 22 LR on inventory, off hand, I cannot say the manufacturers, but some work fine in the revolvers, some have sticky extraction. I mark then ones that work with the revolvers and save them for the revolvers. I kind of remember, the higher end 22 LR ammunition has less issues than the bargain priced stuff. Don't take that as gospel as I have slept a bit since I last fired my 22 LR revolvers.
Funny, virtually all the manufacturers work with the semi-auto 22 LR guns that I have.
An aggravation, but not really and issue for me as I shoot mostly center fire guns.
I need to try CajunBass's cleaning method.
I do love shooting the 8-3/8" Model 17 though.
Funny, virtually all the manufacturers work with the semi-auto 22 LR guns that I have.
An aggravation, but not really and issue for me as I shoot mostly center fire guns.
I need to try CajunBass's cleaning method.
I do love shooting the 8-3/8" Model 17 though.
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Pat Riot
Contributing Member
When I first got my model 17 it had “sticky” chambers with a few manufacturers ammo. Brass was hard to extract after firing.
A friend of mine recommended I try Flitz Polish in the chambers I bought a .22 caliber bore mop as well (he didn’t tell me how he applied it) and I bought a similar blue metal polish at Napa Auto. I cannot remember the name but it’s a paste. Paste polish should stay on the mop better.
I removed the cylinder from the revolver.
I disassembled the cylinder assembly (some people aren’t comfortable doing this.) If you are not then it is not necessary. Remember, your ejector rod may have left handed threads if the gun was made after 1957. I have also heard that guns made after 1961 and after between 1955-1957 have left handed threads.
I soaked my cylinder for 24 hours in Break Free CLP and then I cleaned it.
I put the cylinder between 2 soft wood blocks in a vise.
I used a piece of cleaning rod as a shaft for my variable speed drill driver and screwed the bore mop into it.
I covered the bore mop in polish paste - don’t put a lot as the drill may sling it everywhere...also, speed is not needed so slow the drill down...or it’ll sling polish everywhere. Notice I mentioned this twice?
Now, applying polish as needed, I polished the inside of each chamber using the bore mop with polish applied spinning the mop at a moderate speed.
I didn’t get crazy over polishing, as my friend cautioned. I think I only ran the bore mop in each chamber for 5 or 6 seconds. I applied fresh polish for each chamber. I did each chamber twice.
I then re-cleaned the cylinder, cleaned up the rest of my mess, and reassembled the gun.
This made a noticeable difference when extracting brass but did very little for tight fitting ammo.
Hope this helps.
A friend of mine recommended I try Flitz Polish in the chambers I bought a .22 caliber bore mop as well (he didn’t tell me how he applied it) and I bought a similar blue metal polish at Napa Auto. I cannot remember the name but it’s a paste. Paste polish should stay on the mop better.
I removed the cylinder from the revolver.
I disassembled the cylinder assembly (some people aren’t comfortable doing this.) If you are not then it is not necessary. Remember, your ejector rod may have left handed threads if the gun was made after 1957. I have also heard that guns made after 1961 and after between 1955-1957 have left handed threads.
I soaked my cylinder for 24 hours in Break Free CLP and then I cleaned it.
I put the cylinder between 2 soft wood blocks in a vise.
I used a piece of cleaning rod as a shaft for my variable speed drill driver and screwed the bore mop into it.
I covered the bore mop in polish paste - don’t put a lot as the drill may sling it everywhere...also, speed is not needed so slow the drill down...or it’ll sling polish everywhere. Notice I mentioned this twice?
Now, applying polish as needed, I polished the inside of each chamber using the bore mop with polish applied spinning the mop at a moderate speed.
I didn’t get crazy over polishing, as my friend cautioned. I think I only ran the bore mop in each chamber for 5 or 6 seconds. I applied fresh polish for each chamber. I did each chamber twice.
I then re-cleaned the cylinder, cleaned up the rest of my mess, and reassembled the gun.
This made a noticeable difference when extracting brass but did very little for tight fitting ammo.
Hope this helps.
CajunBass
Member
Widely considered the best all-round .38 revolver ever made. Congrats!
Now that I think about it, I've never tried it with anything but Federal bulk pack. I've still got several thousand rounds of that left from when I got bit by the 22 bug a few years back.
Steve Milbocker
Member
My 17-4 with the 3 Ts I inherited from my dad. I didn’t think I’d like the long barrel...until I shot it!
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