Nosler RDF .264 140 grain

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d_vance

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I’m having trouble finding the right O.A.L to use with the Nosler RDF 140 grain bullets in my 6.5 Creedmoor. The book says to make them 2.805 so I did. But when I try and cycle them through my Savage 110 the bolt gets stiff when I try to lock it in the chamber. The length is perfect and I’ve tried other lengths but it’s hitting towards the bottom of the bullet almost to where the bullet and the neck of the case meet. I do not have this problem with factory ammo such as Hornady Percision Hunter 143 ELD X bullets that are even longer than my hand loads. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time!
 
The length is perfect and I’ve tried other lengths but it’s hitting towards the bottom of the bullet almost to where the bullet and the neck of the case meet.

Not sure what "hitting towards the bottom of the bullet" means...what is hitting what?

Have two Savage 6.5CM's and shoot the Nosler 140 RDF. In mine, with a COAL of 2.850" the bullet is touching the lands.,,,so either your brass is not properly resized, you have a short throat in your Savage...that was a problem with some Savage rifles...or perhaps an obstruction of some kind in the shoulder/neck area.
 
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What he is trying to say is the ogive of the bullet is engaging the lead in the throat of the chamber.
The bullet needs to be seated deeper.

Because of manufacturing tolerances, and manufacturers discretion on design, load specifications are suggestions or recommendations.
You control the final product. Loading metallic cartridges isn’t like shotshell reloading where it’s “cookbook recipes”. Hence the cautions, and recommendation to start low and work up.
 
But the ogive for 140 Nosler RDF is not even where "the bullet and the neck of the case meet." If that is an accurate description, then something else is going on.
 
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Does a sized brass chamber without resistance. If not you need to move the shoulder back a little more till it chambers without or just a hint of resistance.

Yes a resized brass works flawlessly when cycling it through the action
 
Are you crimping? If so you may be buckling the brass at the neck/shoulder area. Easy enough to test just back off the body of the seating die then seat a bullet, test.
 
No I do not crimp them

Not knowing any way. Is there a chance you have the body turned down too far?

Back off on your length till you get it to chamber freely. A test you can do is to manually push the round in to the chamber. Then tilt the nose up and the bullet should fall out. If not your into the lands or something is out. Mark up the round and do it again looking for rub marks.
 
Not knowing any way. Is there a chance you have the body turned down too far?

Back off on your length till you get it to chamber freely. A test you can do is to manually push the round in to the chamber. Then tilt the nose up and the bullet should fall out. If not your into the lands or something is out. Mark up the round and do it again looking for rub marks.
I have talked to some older more experienced reloaders and they told me to barley seat the bullet into the case and put it in the gun and let the gun seat the bullet but I couldn’t get it to work for me I don’t know what I was doing wrong. I don’t think it’s hitting my lands although it is hitting something
 
I have talked to some older more experienced reloaders and they told me to barley seat the bullet into the case and put it in the gun and let the gun seat the bullet but I couldn’t get it to work for me I don’t know what I was doing wrong. I don’t think it’s hitting my lands although it is hitting something
 

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Wow that is some serious fouling. Do you have something that can check the concentricity of the round?
 
You may need to make a cast of your chamber to see whats going on. That is a lot of scratches in the leads area of the chamber.

Do you have a bore scope where you can go in and take a close look?

Your not showing which part of the world your located at. Maybe someone close can take a look and help you out.
 
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