Old powder

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I found a deal on some old powders from an old fellow who has quit reloading, $10 lb.. IMR-4350, 4759, 4895, 4064, 4227, and a several other handgun powders. Also a bunch of black powder. He says they are all in the old metal cans, so no doubt they're pretty old. The fact that they are old doesn't necessarily concern me, I've used 4350 that was better than 30 years old before that was stored properly. I haven't seen them yet, but the guy says they were stored properly, and the one that's been opened still smells good, I haven't inspected them yet. The 4759 is the only one he said has been opened.

My base question here, and I think I already know the answer, if these powders are still good, should I use old data with them? I think IMR-4350 may have been reformulated, don't know about the others. I hate to pass up a $10 lb. deal on powder.

GS
 
Old powders do not bother me either since I still have some I used from the 70's.

I try to use data from the same era, but it's not necessary unless the new data is higher. In most cases it's lower due to better test equipment. Beside the smell test look inside the can for rust. It's a better indicator of the powder breaking down.
 
A good part of what you are asking really depends on how the powder has been stored, it's not just the age but the conditions under which it has been stored. I have plenty of cans of IMR 4895, IMR 4227 and others since the mid 90s. All stored fine in a cool dry place and all of it loads and shoots fine.

I recently loaded several hundred rounds of 223 and 308 with mid 90s powder and it not only shoots fine but I used old primers and got the same chronograph results I did 20 years ago and on the same chronograph. If the cans are unopened and been stored proper I would be all over the powder for ten bucks a pound.

Ron
 
You load powder in a shell and it lasts long enough to shoot 100 years or more later. As long as the powder has been stored properly there's no reason it won't be fine for reloading. Do your due diligence and work up your loads. Use the ordinary tests to make sure its good or load a few rounds to see if it shoots.

I would compare the new data with the old and load the most conservative to start and work up for accuracy. While the powder burn rates new and old are probably the same there has been changes in primers and bullets so its best to be cautious.
 
Ya, I think I'm gonna grab all of it if it's in good condition. He said he has stored it dry and cool, so I'm fairly confident it's in good condition. It's awfully hard to walk away from a $10 lb. deal for powders I like and, or would use. I'm not a big fan of 4227, but it's worth burning at $10 lb. and 4759 I haven't used in years, but I liked it then, so I'm sure I'll find a use for it now. And 4895 & 4350, those won't last long in my hands, well really any of the rifle powders for that matter, they all have a cartridge to call home.

Thanks
GS
 
I ran into this when I pulled my stuff out of storage. What I highly recommend is looking at both new and old data, and comparing them. Usually it varies less than different sources do. If they are in line with each other, you can use your judgement as would between different manuals. It would only be a concern if you found certain data with significant differences. They will usually overlap, and then I consider the lower max load. Sometimes issues are discovered and included in later versions, even when the powder hasn't changed, so bias towards the newer data, but still compare the old.

Powders_zps0f216c2c.jpg
 
That was stored properly and still in a sealed can is the important part. I'd pass on anything that's open.
 
Since they're unopened they should be good. Should be. Honestly, you can't know until they are opened. If the smell doesn't burn the hair out of your nose and there's no rust inside, it's fine.
 
I have the old IMR powders in the metal cans also. This powder has been stored in very good conditions but the cans I opened ended up with rust in the powder in spite of it.

The powder still smells fine and looks really good except for the rust. I won't shoot it now even though it still smells right. The rust may be abrasive to my barrels.

Make sure you check each can before you buy any of it. Shine a light down in it looking for rust and look at the inside of the can. Mine smelled just fine so I didn't look any further until two weeks ago when I dumped some out.
 
I bought some unique a few years ago that was in a 15lb cardboard can. I just used starting loads and worked up. It seems to burn just the same as the new stuff I have. I don't know for sure how old it is, but it said Herco on it.
 
I just dumped the whole can of IMR out into a plastic tub and looking at it I could see a very minor tint that didn't show up in a picture so I didn't upload it.

I did dump it back into the can and I could see a very light reddish dust in the air above the funnel. The attachment is a picture of my funnel after dumping it back into the can.

I can see the reddish tint in the bottom of the funnel. The powder smells perfect.
 

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I would open all the cans before making a deal. Powder can go bad in a properly stored, sealed can. I would also be wary of rusted cans, they can rust from inside, which is caused by deteriorating powder.

Tell the seller you will by anything that's good.
 
I am not an "old geezer" but have a lot of powders in metal cans from different manufacturers. They all work fine an are stored properly.
 
Ya, I told him I'll inspect it first, and that I'll buy anything he has if it's still good. He's good with that, so I'm bring with me a ceramic cup and funnel, and a good light to inspect the inside of the cans.

GS
 
The ones pictured above were opened in the late 1980s and I just finished off the Red Dot, the IMR4198 and the RE7, and some IMR4350 and Olin296 not pictured. I'm still loading from the Hercules Unique and the Winchester Super Field. One of these days I'll finsih off the H870. No abnormalities in any besides rusty metal. (external). Started out about year in my livingroom in souther CA, another couple years in my basement in PA, to seaveral years in my leaky garage and then attic before digging them out during the Great Obama Panic.
 
There are those on here that say everybody should avoid old propellant like the plague. I have obtained old stuff that had a questionable history that shot just fine and gave no problems. I just use the oldest up first. Historically I do not stockpile ammo so to speak, I load just before/as I use it and check that everything is OK with components then. The brass prep is what I do way ahead and stockpile that for speedier future loading. Works for me.;) Just make sure the propellant is not showing obvious signs of deterioration as noted above before use.
 
I recently started using 2400 & 4227 that has been in factory sealed 15# kegs since the late 1960s. And just finally used up the Bullseye and Unique in one pound cans from the same time period.
 
I have several more, but one can of about 1980 vintage IMR 4064 that had been opened about a year ago really let off a cloud of orange dust when I opened it again yesterday to try in my 260. It turned my funnel, my pan and my spoon orange. Orange dust was all in it. Didn't smell bad at all. I opened another can same vintage and no problem at all. Fertilized a flower bed with the orange stuff and it really went up in a cloud of orange dust when I poured the whole can out. Can did not look rusted on the inside. I suspect the powder was breaking down.
 
All gunpowder deteriorates. Gunpowder is either nitrocellulose, mixed in with a lot of chemicals, or nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine, mixed in with a lot of chemicals. The shooting community does not want to believe this, has been told otherwise in gun magazines, but, ignoring what the shooting community desires, gunpowder follows the second law of thermodynamics. It is a high energy compound that is breaking down to a low energy compound.

It is probably confirmation bias, but it seems that I am reading more and more reports of Vihtavuori gunpowders breaking down. It does seem interesting that their lifetime is getting close to 25 years, which is beyond the reasonable shelf life for double based, but not beyond the shelf life of single based powders: 45 years. All the Vihtavuori stories I have found deal with single based powders. Which shows that the lifetime of gunpowders is rather unpredictable. This is a basic issue that allows the shooting community to pretend gunpowder lasts forever. Some stocks of gunpowder last much longer than expected. The ones that went bad within 20 years, they just ignore. Also, if it has not happened to the skeptics, then it cannot happen, or did not happen, or both.

When gunpowders break down they release nitric acid gas. Nitric acid gas will corrode copper and brass. Probably a lot more things as nitric acid is very reactive. These bullets were pulled from very old US surplus ammunition, I don't remember how old.

DSCN1108CorrodedBullets.jpg
DSCN1115corrodedbullets.jpg


These are 1960's factory Norma ammunition that went bad in the case. The guy who posted this, these cartridges had been stored in his father's house, if I remember right. The corrosion is due to nitric acid gas.

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Old gunpowder has, and will, blow up firearms. What happens is a phenomena called burn rate instability. It is a catch all term. Gunpowder has been engineered for a consistent burn. The shape, the geometry are all carefully engineered into the final product. When gunpowder deteriorates, it deteriorates unevenly. The grain changes shape, instead of a nice smooth tube, (for example) now the tube is thinner in places. When it burns, the pressure is inconsistent because parts of the tube are burning faster, other slower. These pressure waves conflict. If there is dust in there, the surface area is huge. If it is a double based powder, the nitroglycerine wicks its way to the surface, which will spike the pressure curve.

I have a number of accounts of military surplus ammunition blowing up rifles. The owners and the commentators don't know, and don't want to know about old ammunition and pressure problems, so the suggested reasons why the gun blew up can be quite fantastical. Often racist.


Here are some other threads, the first one has great pictures of the effects of deterioration.

Has anyone else had Vihtavuori N140 corrode in loaded ammo?

http://www.falfiles.com/forums...thread.php?p=3745264


Bad N140

http://thefiringline.com/forum...old+gunpowder&page=3


Of particular interest to me was the link to the thread on N140. In the early 1990's, my dad got a 1/4 lb free sample container of N140 at Camp Perry, and gave half of it to me. That's about 20 rounds worth in .308; not enough to do serious load development with. I put it in a plastic bottle with a plated and painted steel cap with cardboard seal disc. I left it at the back of a high shelf in the basement where it was out of sight and soon out of mind. Some time later I bought a full pound of N140 to experiment with, but that original 1/4 lb continued to sit.

I finally re-encountered the bottle during some cleaning out activity. It looked like this:


UnclenicksN140powder_zps3f235f13.jpg

the lid out. Rinse water put over it poured out yellow. At that point I cut the container open and buried the wet mass under the compost heap to let nature take its course.

Interestingly, the remaining 1/8 lb still at my father's place (also untouched) appeared to be in fine condition in it's original container. Shaking some out onto a white sheet of paper to look for traces of red dust showed no signs of any. Odor was normal. Nonetheless, with only that small amount left, we scattered it over the yard.The powder in it was not powder any longer. The grains were all stuck together. That was the result of the lid seal failing and letting humidity in. The acid fumes corroded

The final lesson, is that old gunpowder will burn your house down. If you ever see a jug gunpowder outgassing like this, get it out of the house and dispose of it.:

Vihtavuori N150 gone bad

http://m14forum.com/ammunition...i-n150-gone-bad.html
Well I was going to work up a load today with Vihtavuori N150, but when I opened the jug, whew, what an odor!!! Then gold colored fumes started coming out of the jug. Don't know how old this jug is, it was given to me about a year ago.

Tried to get a good picture of the fumes, but the wind kept blowing it around.

Anyways, keep an eye on your powder.

VihtavuouriN150gonebad1_zps2c2d158c.jpg

When gunpowder deteriorates, it heats up. In quantity, definitely eight pound jug size, maybe one pound jug size, the stuff will catch on fire. Gunpowder in small arms cases is hard to auto combust because the shell casing draws out heat. The US Army believes that nothing smaller than a five inch shell will auto combust, due to the cartridge walls drawing out the heat, but an Insensitive Munitions Expert I met, said that was all bunk.

Recently I looked at the definition of Confirmation Bias in the book, "You are not so Smart"

The Misconception: Your opinions are the result of years of rational, objective analysis.

The Truth: Your opinions are the result of years of paying attention to information that confirmed what you believed, while ignoring information that challenged your preconceived notions.

Reloaders want their ammunition and gunpowder to last forever, so they ignore any evidence otherwise. If you search this site, you will find posts, about gunpowder lifetime, that obey Confirmation Bias. You will read posters discussing their pre WW2 gunpowders they have, or used, or bragging about the massive quantities of old gunpowder they have, and that proves to them that gunpowder lasts forever. On many forums you will run into crazy coots who have been hoarding gunpowder. They store the stuff in the house, and one day, their hoard of WW2 gunpowder will catch on fire, and burn them alive in their sleep.

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The coots don't believe this, and the shooting community generally believes gunpowder is immortal. Shooters only believe what they want to believe, and they want to believe that their stash of gunpowder and ammunition will last forever.
 
So I drove out to this guys guys house to look at the powder, and it was all good. I bought 2 lbs. / 4350, 2 lbs / 4064, 2 lbs./ 4320, and 1 lb. 4895 got it all for $40 and a 2 hour round trip.

He also had some 4227, RL7, 4759, and a bunch of BP, but I don't really like those powders. I've used a lot of 4759 in 44 mag. early in my reloading days, but I didn't really care much for it. And I've never loaded with RL7, and I tried 4227 many years ago and didn't like it, so I passed on those.

GS
 
Question.

If a powder has began to break down, say it smells normal, but it has developed some obvious visual signs of breaking down, red dust particulate.

For the sake of example, considering the following powders I just purchased IMR-4350, 4895, 4064, 4320

Does it's burn rate change?

If so, is it going to likely burn faster or slower?

Or is there some other characteristic, such as sub standard pressures, or higher than typical pressures?

Or are it's performance characteristic going to be totally unpredictable?

GS
 
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