old wingmaster barrel worth threading?

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redbandit98

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well here is the deal. I have obtained an old 870 wingmaster barrel. Its a 26" rib vent, but fixed full choke. I do not know how old it is. I know you can decode the barrel numbers but they start over about 3 times from what I can tell. If you don't know the approx age of the gun it came off, its hard to tell. It is pretty old, as it is for 2.75 shells only and has the old spring and ball detention. Its a nice barrel, but it is a fixed full choke. I shoot mainly modified but would really like it to be able to be a screw in setup. I guess I will have to take it and see if its thick enough to thread. I have another 870 barrel thats about 10 years old, came off an 870, rib vent, 28", remchoke setup but has the old ball system as well. It feels a LOT heavier than the barrel Im asking about. I guess I mainly want to know if the barrel Im thinking about modifying is worth any money. Its not about me making a dime, its more about preserving a nice piece if there is still a need/want for this type of setup. I mean if its worth enough, I could sell it and buy a new barrel. If its not worth much, it would be cheaper to have it modified. I wouldnt think many people would be interested in a fixed choke barrel that only shoots 2 3/4 shells. Then again, to someone with an old nice wingmaster that wanted a spare old barrel..it may be

thanks
 
I have seen very few 870 26" full choke barrels. Mostly on Special Field models. Are you sure it has not been cut? You cannot tell if it is thick enough for tubes without careful measurements. If it feels lighter than your new barrel, it may not be thick enough for RemChokes but TruChokes might work. I am sending you a PM for further discussion.
 
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Here is the code..I dont know what that "pipe" symbol is..maybe that is for wingmaster? It says CQ 36 after the symbol.

Here is the barrel measurement, I assumed it was a 26". Maybe its been cut but it looks factory?
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Barrels are measured by dropping a cleaning rod down the muzzle against the closed bolt, marking it, and measuring the cleaning rod.

Here is Carlson's muzzle measurements for choke tube install.
MINIMUM OUTSIDE BARREL DIAMETER MEASUREMENTS FOR CHOKE INSTALLATIONS:
12 ga. lead shot and steel shot system = .825
12 ga. lead shot system only, no magnum loads or steel = .805


http://www.choketube.com/choke-tube-installation.php

rc
 
Here are Colonial Arms specs for threading barrels for chokes

here is a link to where this is copied from

http://www.colonialarms.com/PDFfiles/Installation.pdf

GAUGE/THREAD SIZE MINIMUM OD MAXIMUM ID

10GA .865x44 0.900 0.781 (TRUE SIZE)

12GA .812X32 0.845 0.736 (REM-CHOKE)
12GA .812X32 0.845 0.736 (WIN-CHOKE)
12GA .812X32 0.845 0.736 (INVECTOR)
12GA .795X44 0.825 0.736 (TRUE SIZE)
12GA .774X44 0.805 0.730 (THIN WALL)

16GA .718X44 0.750 0.668 (TRUE SIZE)

20GA .674X44 0.700 0.626 (TRUE SIZE)

28GA .613X44 0.645 0.560 (TRUE SIZE)

410GA .478X44 0.510 0.416 (TRUE SIZE)
 
That barrel looks like it has been cut to me. What is the inside barrel dimension at the muzzle? I have had tubes installed in several barrels with excellent results, but be sure you start with a barrel you like.
 
ill have to take it to work with me and mic it. I have a cheap ol one that I dont trust here at the house. I just use it for sizing orings/seals whatever. I have all starret stuff at work and I will measure it. Looking at the picture it does look like it may have been cut down, but then again Ive never really paid attention to how "straight" a regular barrel is on the end. I'm not familiar enough with them to know if there is any chamfer at the muzzle or what the end of a rib vent looks like. (straight like mine in the picture or rounded off, beveled or whatever) I'm going to compare the two I have tomorrow and see. I just got the barrel and never really thought about it being cut down until it was mentioned here.
 
The lack of bluing at the end of the barrel, especiallon the end of the vent rib looks like a cut barrel to me. If so you should have a cylinder choke. If it were mine, and it didn't cost too much to have the work done I'd seriously consider threading it.
 
I agree, it looks to have been cut... The soldier job on the end of the rip doesn't look factory either.

DM
 
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