Ordered LNL AP last night

[glockky]

I finially found a hornady lock and load ap in stock at natchezz last night and went ahead and ordered it. Any pointers you can give to someone using this press for the first time and on setup.

 

[[email protected]]

Mine has worked good for thousands of rounds. Just remember to clean the powder measure really good before you use it. When you mount the primer tube put the alignment pin in and start the screw that holds it in place. Push the assembly to the left as you tighten it up. Aterwards if you have trouble feeding primers, take the slider and use your chamfer tool to chamfer the under side of the slider where the primer punch comes through it.
I have noticed some flex in the carrier. If I set the dies with the press dry, with no cases, my adjustments are off a little, espically if I intend to resize as I load. If I am resizing as I load I set the sizer die first. Then I set the expander die with a case, and a to be sized case to enter the sizing die. Then I index the press. The powder measure is the next step. It is set the same as above, first station a to be sized case, second to be expanded, third station is powder measure. the seat and crimp die is set in the same fashion. Just remember to have have all the stations loaded when you set up the dies.
I have noticed that taller brass, like 38 special, I have to cycle the press slower or the brass will tilt when feeding into the sizing die. On small capicity cases, some powder may bounce out of the top of the case as the press indexes. Keep the primer shuttle track clean. I use a nylon cleaning brush to clean this area.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER IS TO BUY MORE COMPONETS.

 

[hpluseleven]

Congrats. I love mine. Priming on the press can be made to work but I've found that I prefer slowing down just a bit. I resize/deprime then hand prime on the couch before running everything through the press for loading.

I can't believe I loaded pistol on a single stage before I got my LNL AP.

 

[noylj]

Set-up:
Always load two inert (no primer or powder) rounds first so you can determine the COL range that works for that bullet and your gun. Be sure case or case and bullet are in the die before you set the lock rings. This ensures alignment. Sizing die to just touch the shell plate.
1) size
2) expand, flare/bell, charge case
3) RCBS Lock-Out die
4) Look down and inspect the powder in the case (particularly if you aren't running a Lock-Out die). Seat bullet
5) Crimp
Next, be sure bench is rigid. ALL progressive presses need a rigid bench.
Apply thick grease (marine grease for props is excellent) to bottom of shell plate. Tighten bolt as tight as possible so shell plate still rotates smoothly. You may need to apply some BLUE Loc-Tite to bolt ONCE so bolt never loosens up.
You also may need to apply some BLUE Lok-Tite to nut on handle so handle doesn't loosen.
Do not EVER partially stroke the press. All progressives need to be fully worked up and down. Partially stroking can cause damage and you could get multiple powder drops.
Do not EVER force anything. The Hornady is very easy to remove all cases so you can determine where and what the hang-up is.
If any powder spills on any progressive, stop everything, remove all cases, remove shell plate, and thoroughly clean. Cleanliness is critical for all progressives.
Be sure on the downstroke to come fully down and fully seat the primer. This is the only time when a partial stroke is justified--raise the ram very slightly and bring it down again.
I have never had a Hornady out-of-time, but there are lots of complaints I have read. Be sure the shell plate is fully rotating and locked into the detent balls. Be sure the primer seater is in position as the shell plate comes around. Do this at initial inspection and before you start.
If you are new to reloading, feel free to run one case around at a time to get used to what is happening at each station.
Be sure you get the caliber/cartridge specific PTX (if using cast lead, get the slightly larger PTX made for lead bullets). If you are using a PTX that only flares/bells the case mouth, you need to run the expander die before the powder measure to be sure the case ID is proper before seating a bullet.
Be sure the powder measure bushing is TIGHT. The measure is very top heavy and puts a lot of stress on the bushing and a slightly too small o-ring will let the powder measure work loose. Some people use a shim under this bushing and use a wrench to make sure the bushing is TIGHT.
Be sure the correct size rotor in installed in the measure and be sure to use the lock ring on the metering assembly so adjustment doesn't change.
Call Hornady if you have any problems.
Watch any videos on the Hornady site.

 

[glockky]

thanks for the info. I got some of the dry lube that hornady recommends putting on various parts after cleaning the factory grease off.

I agree with the buying components I can definately see my reloading cost going up

 

[Blue68f100]

Follow the directions to a Tee and you should be fine. I only use the OneShot dry lube on shell plate. Any oil will attract spilled powder and burn powder.

I align the primer by looking down the tube. If you have it align properly it does not matter what size is in it. And will feed as fast as you can run it. I use a thread on the primer sled return spring. This allows you to change the sled and not deal with trying to hook the spring.

Hornady Tech Support is top notch if you run into a problem or just post on here. I'm sure someone will answer your question.

 

[Huskerguy]

glockky

These guys both summed things up pretty well. I have had mine for nearly a year. I have been extremely busy so it has set there for a while and I never had the time to just devote to adjusting everything right away. Eventually I did and it works great. I am sure I will rehash some of what was already said:

1. Clean everything with Hornady OneShot cleaner. Order this (if you don't have some already) when you get your press. Clean, clean clean.

2. Take the primer shuttle and file the leading edges to a small taper so it doesn't get hung up. Then take some very fine sandpaper and sand the entire piece, especially where the parts slide. A good bugger wheel on a dremel tool wouldn't hurt.

3. As said earlier, mount this baby heck for stout. Mine could hold up the entire upstairs above it. I did overkill with a special metal bracket under the bench. No flex at all. You don't want ANY.

4. Pick up the aftermarket Powder through expander. I never tried the factory ones. Not quite the same bell but still works and you aren't changing if often.

5. Keep the primer shuttle area VERY clean. I too use a paint brush. Any little amounts of powder can be disastrous.

6. I have dies in this order:
deprime/expand
prime
Expand/powder
RCBS lock out die
seating die
Lee factory crimp die

7. There is flex in the shell plates so yes, having things loaded is the only way to get consistent OAL cartridges.

8. I also picked up the smaller pistol rotor. It is for loads of 4.0 grains or less. I use a lot of Titegroup and it works great.

Take your time setting it up. Put something together and work the press and keep adding a piece. Once you have it all set up there is so much going on. It is a lot to watch at first so take your time and go slow. Make consistent strokes with the ram and you will enjoy this baby for a long time.

Expect a report in a couple of weeks.

 

[david bachelder]

Follow the directions to the letter. Do exactly as Hornady describes.

While you are waiting for delivery watch each of these videos. They helped me in a very big way.


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Here are the completed videos on the Hornady LNL AP press. I have been as thorugh as I can be and I hope that those that are considering purchasing the Hornady AP press, or those that already have the press find these videos helpful. Here are the links and thanks for watching.

76Highboy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qC1O5FzSCA

This video covers issues related to the shell plate including eject issues, cases feeding into the dies, powder spillover, and primer seating. Thanks for watching.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6BfPn5QaiA

This video will instruct you on how to set the priming system and it will help you dial in the camwire properly if the primer won't feed into the primer slide. I hope it helps and thanks for watching.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IX-dDZR0G2o

This video goes over the powder measure cleaning and set up from top to bottom. Thanks for watching.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWftLWwQSng

This video will demonstrate the accuracy of the LNL AP powder measure set up. I demonstrate that the powder measure on the AP will throw every bit as accurately as the stand alone powder measure will. Thanks for watching.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCyYUzymHns

This video takes what we have learned and shows how to set the Hornady LNL AP press up from the ground up. I show you how I set everything up, going through each die, and ending up with a loaded cartridge. Thanks for watching.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYH-WeOBaiM

This video will help you better design a good solid reloading bench, and it will show you how to successfully mount your press. Thanks for watching.
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

This guy knows what he's doing. I watched them several times.

My advice:
Go slow at first.
Run one shell at a time, watch and observe each and every movement of the press.
There is a lot to watch.
Once comfortable try to load full speed.
Always be observant.
Half of the battle is identifying a problem.

I have loaded a little over 2000 rounds. The first 500 were the toughest. Most of the problems I had were my fault. The press is a mechanical beast and things don't always go as planned. Observe and learn, the press will serve you well.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

You'll love it. I load from 2000 at a time or 200 at a time. Caliber changes are nothing once the dies are set. Running it will become second nature after the press gets you trained.

By the way the white 1/8"fiberglass rod goes in the primer feed tube as a weight to keep the primers moving. I taped a flag on mine so that when the flag hits the top of the primer tube I know I'm out of primers.

Pay attention to the template for mounting the press that comes with it. There is a steel bracket that goes under the press that will have to be changed out if you decide to later add a case feeder. If you don't follow the template you will have to drill all new mounting holes and re-install the press to make the case feeder work.

Ask me how I know.

 

[GJSchulze]

Not only did I tape a flag to the top of the primer level indicator, I determined that the primer feed tube will hold a total of 120 primers, so I used a red sharpie to mark the rod from where it would show empty to where the last 20 primers are. That way I can load new primers any time the red hits the top of the feed tube.

 

[thorn-]

A couple things I'll add....

- You really shouldn't need to tighten the shellplate THAT much. It only needs to be firm - remember, it's meant to also be removed for different calibers. And I've certainly never needed locktite (on the shellplate, nor anywhere else on the press.)

- Don't overdo it on lubrication under the shellplate, as this will attract dirt and loose powder. A bit of dry lube is sufficient - I use CLP myself.

- The pistol (smaller) powder rotor really is a good investment.

- If you need to shim the powder dispenser (because it's loose in the mount), call hornady. They'll ship you 3 different custom shims for free.

- Even if you don't have a problem, call Hornady. Unless they've changed it, their phone menu auto-answer is worth the call. (edit: they've changed it... sad day, as it was quite humorous)

Repeating what others said - NEVER force anything. If you get a hangup - STOP, and determine the issue. Force it, and you'll break it. Patiently look around the press, and you'll find the problem, and correct it quickly with no issues.

The LNL is a wonderful press - You'll be happy you got it.

thorn

 

[cfullgraf]

- The pistol (smaller) powder rotor really is a good investment.

Three years ago, my Hornady L-N-L came with both rotors for the powder measure although the literature said it only came with one. Do not order the other size until you are sure your kit only came with one rotor. (I ended up with an extra rotor.)

Repeating what others said - NEVER force anything. If you get a hangup - STOP, and determine the issue. Force it, and you'll break it. Patiently look around the press, and you'll find the problem, and correct it quickly with no issues.

The Hornady L-N-L does not fit in the category of "don't force it, get a bigger hammer". After a few strokes of the handle, you will quickly learn what the normal force is to operate the press. DO NOT POWER THROUGH a jam, something WILL BREAK.

While learning, it is better to err on the safe side and clear what turns out to be a "non-jam" than break parts of the press.

The LNL is a wonderful press - You'll be happy you got it.

I agree. All three main stream progressives make good ammunition and have their advantages and disadvantages. The Hornady works well for me.

 

[Crunchy Frog]

Follow Hornady's setup videos; they are great.

Use some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to polish the primer shuttle. Keep the priming mechanism very clean. I used to clean mine every couple hundred rounds. After the parts wear in a little it will run better.

Order an RCBS Lockout Die. Best insurance you can buy.

 

[thump_rrr]

As far as setting up your powder measure to work with PTX expanders here is a link to a thread where I described my setup which seems to work well with all the calibers I reload.
I began on post #28

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=713939&page=2

 

[abq87120]

I like the PTX expanders also. My biggest problem was forgetting the primer stroke. Powder would fall out of the primer hole and was a mess to clean up.

Powder in the primer shuttle channel would cause primer jams, a sign of a missing primer. Keep a can of compressed gas for cleaning PCs handy. Or a bench next to an air compressor like mine.

I finally overcame my mental handicap and have had a great time with mine.

 

[noylj]

- You really shouldn't need to tighten the shellplate THAT much. It only needs to be firm - remember, it's meant to also be removed for different calibers. And I've certainly never needed locktite (on the shellplate, nor anywhere else on the press.)

In an ideal world, true. I had my shellplate loosen when the bolt loosened. I only applied Blue Lok-Tite once. The residual is enough to keep the bolt from loosening.

- Don't overdo it on lubrication under the shellplate, as this will attract dirt and loose powder. A bit of dry lube is sufficient - I use CLP myself.

If powder spills, you need to clean it up immediately--with or without any grease on the shell plate. My manual recommended grease, so I found the grease that would prevent the shellplate from snapping and tightening enough that the shellplate still moves easily and also reduces and shellplate deflection so one get more consistent COL from a full shellplate to an empty shellplate.

The PTXs are great, but it seems that some people have no idea how to adjust the caliper specific PTX from 9x19 to .380 Auto and other such case length issues. For lead bullets, you really should invest in the slightly larger "cast bullet" PTXs. I consider case expansion (and, again, I am NOT talking about case mouth flare/bell) a critical issue with lead bullets and an additional accuracy issue with jacketed bullets. Too many use an "expander" that ONLY flares/bells the case mouth and wonder why their lead bullets aren't that accurate or why their jacketed bullets occasionally bulge the case at the bottom of the bullet (from the bullet seating crooked and bulging the case where the walls are thinnest). Next, is getting a seating stem that actually fits the bullet well enough to help align the bullet during seating. Using bullet lube or epoxy to "customize" the seating stem does not guarantee that the stem was perfectly aligned and the custom stem may not ever properly align the bullet. I like the idea of the Hornady seating die with the movable tube to align the bullet, but the fit to the bullet is not tight enough that I see it really contributing as much as it could to bullet alignment. I would expect that any company will make a custom seater for a reasonable cost, though the cost will not be reasonable as Lee (just be sure with Lee that you tell them how you want the seating stem to interface with the bullet or they will just make one they consider "good enough").

 

[GJSchulze]

- Don't overdo it on lubrication under the shellplate, as this will attract dirt and loose powder. A bit of dry lube is sufficient - I use CLP myself.

The manual says you can put a little grease on the two ball bearings. I use a little more, but not much. I think there is one (or maybe two) grease ports ( I'm not sure what to call them) that you squeeze grease into at the bottom of the press. The ram needs grease.

- If you need to shim the powder dispenser (because it's loose in the mount), call hornady. They'll ship you 3 different custom shims for free.

So I'm not the only one that had that problem. They told me to replace the bushing that fits into the press itself, but I couldn't get it loose. The shims worked well.

Working a progressive press is like learning to drive stick or shooting a handgun in USPSA or IDPA. Lots of things to remember and you won't do well until it gets into muscle memory. I check every round in a headspace gauge. It can be done pretty quickly and as I do it, I run my finger over the primer to make sure it's flush. This also ensures that I find any rounds without a primer, although the telltale powder in the cartridge catcher usually alerts me to that. It's a little messy, but it's not something that will be dangerous even if you missed it. Not putting powder in a case, however, can be dangerous if you lodge a squib in the barrel and don't notice until you fire the next one. I initially used an RCBS lock-out die to check my powder levels. After too many squibs (because it wasn't working right), I now look into every case. I suggest you do this. Also, use a powder that has enough volume that if you double charge it reaches the top of the case or near enough that it's obvious. 8 grs of Power Pistol in a 9mm case won't even let me seat a bullet. OTOH, I can triple charge Titegroup.

On the primer shuttle, besides polishing it, I rubbed a pencil on it lubricate it with graphite.

Powder in the primer shuttle channel would cause primer jams, a sign of a missing primer. Keep a can of compressed gas for cleaning PCs handy. Or a bench next to an air compressor like mine

I buy canned air by the dozen on eBay. You really do need it. I've never had powder get into the primer shuttle channel, but if you do use compressed air near the shell plate, put your finger on the primer because it will fly away.

Hornady has good tech support, so don't be afraid to call them. I've never had to wait more than maybe 10 minutes for them.

Lastly, Franklin has released the second version of the Vibra-Prime. I bought one from Midway. Wow! I love it. I can fill a primer tube in 30 seconds, not counting the time to shake the tray to make the primers sit up right. It's much easier on the finger muscles than a pick up tube is.

 

[GJSchulze]

I don't know if this is obvious or not, but I found that if you raise the ram to the top, the shell plate will not spin and you can put the big hex wrench through the center hole, although you have to remove one die to rotate the wrench to tighten. My shell plate has loosened several times in the last two years.

 

[Crashbox]

I'll throw in my two cents' worth and mainly +1 what has already been said-

* definitely keep the primer shuttle area clean if you prime on the press;

* the case retainer spring is essentially a consumable, I keep at least a few spares just in case. If I am planning to leave the press for more than a couple of hours I loosen the shell plate and take the case retaining spring off, otherwise it develops a nasty kink and will likely break at that location at the most inopportune time;

* if you do in fact need to adjust the timing on the LnL AP, go VERY slowly as the pawl adjustment screws are VERY touchy. I just had to re-adjust mine for some odd reason, I go no more than one flat or 1/6 turn at a time.

Not much more to be said. Congratulations on your new press.

 

[GJSchulze]

Crashbox:

I bought spares of all the springs, but after two years of reloading, I haven't had one break. They are cheap enough that it makes sense to have a spare because you don't want to be stopped in the middle of a run you need for a competition. However, I have never loosened the shell plate to remove the retainer spring. I think mine has a little kink in it, but it still works OK. I don't know if larger calibers put more tension on it; I reload 9mm only. At the cost of the springs removing it after each use just isn't worthwhile for me. I have maybe 7500 to 8000 rounds on the press.

I had to adjust the timing on mine after I first got it, but not since. Hornady tech support helped me with that.

One addition I would suggest for everyone is the Inline Fabrication ergonomic handle. Last year I had to reload 2000 rounds for a three day handgun class. I was making 100 to 200 rounds per night, but after a week of that I back and shoulder were hurting. I saw the add for the handle and immediately ordered it. It offered instant relief. The original straight handle makes you bend down too far; even me at 5'3", so I can't imagine what it does for someone taller. With the new handle I don't have to bend at all.

When I was trying to decide what press to buy someone at my club suggest getting the Dillon because "it comes all assembled, ready to use." Besides always having the urge to do things differently, my first thought was that I did not want that. I wanted to put it all together. What better way to understand how it works? Besides, the photo of the Dillon with all the extras is downright scarey with all the things sticking out

One last suggestion, a cheapy bullet feeder. Buy the feeder die for around $25. Buy stiff plastic tubing of the correct size for the bullets to feed, but not tumble. For 9mm, I bought 7/16" OD tubes from Linen 'n' Things via Amazon. Cheap, three foot tubes that hold a little over 50 147 gr 9mm bullets. I have 12 tubes that I fill while watching a Yankees game. You need to drill a hole across the bottom for a hitch pin (larger version of the pin on the primer pickup tubes) to hold the bullets in. You can heat and twist the other end to close it off. You need to have some sort of support or hanger to hold it upright, but it works like a charm and is quiet and much cheaper than $300 for the bullet feeder. With that, I don't really need a case feeder. I bought a bin and support from InLine that holds the cases close to where I need them.

 

[kayaks]

Ditto to many of the comments. Spare parts are important, I broke the hub on the very first day. I found that keeping it clean and marking the rod in the primer tube prevented many headaches. It took some time to get the shell feeder to work right. It's a good reloading solution, once you are used to it...

 

[silicosys4]

A few things that you will want to order extra's of:

The shell plate circular springs....4 or 5 extra's is what I have on hand
The primer shuttle return spring...again, 4 or 5 is what I have on hand
Pawls: the small tapered metal inserts in the bottom of the lever that actually indexes the shell plate...you will want an extra one or two of those.

and you can order an extra primer shuttle for each large and small primers if you really want to be prepared for whatever might happen..

Those are the most commonly broken parts, in my experiences...
and yea....
DON'T power through jams. It WILL break parts.

Biggest cause of jams for me:
Debris in the primer shuttle/primer seater area. If your press "locks up" it most likely is debris in the primer seater causing the seater to remain extended, catching on the primer shuttle as it tries to withdraw to pick up a primer, which locks up the machine. Easy fix though. Just unscrew the primer seater from underneath the shellplate, and blow it out.
The biggest cause of this jam is small parts of primers getting shaved off as they are seated, ending up down in the primer seater.

Other than that, watch for shells tipping as they enter the sizing die,
and get a lockout die or powder cop.

 

[horsemen61]

Good for you this is a addictive hobby

 

[BYJO4]

I'm sure you will enjoy the LNL AP. I bought two of them almost 2 years ago and have a little over 50,000 rounds loaded on them. I load 9MM, 357, 41 Mag, 44 Mag, 45 ACP, 45 Auto Rim, and 45 LC. It is important to follow the set up instructions closely and clean the powder measure assembly well. I have yet to have anything break including the case retension spring but it is smart to keep a few spare springs of each type. Also call Hornady and ask for some shims as you will definitely use them to properly secure the powder drop assembly. I've never had a problem with priming any of my cases. I did make one fine adjustment on the timing but did so while talking with a Hornady tech who slowly quided me through it. As far as cleaning, I empty the powder measure after each use and take my industrial vac to suck up any residue on the press and shell plate. I lube the press every 3000 rounds. I also put a small amount of grease on the bottom of the shell plate when mounting on press. I also suggest you use the RCBS Lockoust Die as an added safety precaution. Good luck.

 

[GJSchulze]

I only use Power Pistol and only load 50-150 rounds each session with 0 to 3 sessions per week. I leave the powder in the hopper. After two years I replaced the hopper because the powder had reacted with it to darken the bottom (I never filled it more than 1/3 full) and also bulge the bottom. I bought two replacements at $9.95 each. I then realized I could have cut the one I replaced in half and still use it. I'll do that the next time. Easier than emptying the powder every time. Now I only fill it up 2" deep at most. A rubber mallet is needed to put the new hopper in. When you get the measure new the hopper is so tight that you don't realize it's removable. You have to wiggle it back and forth to remove it; it's a tight force fit.

A plastic bristle bottle mop helps in cleaning the hopper as well. Powder will stick to even the metal surfaces.

I find the powder measure to be pretty consistent, at least with Power Pistol. I use a small plastic prescription bottle to weigh out ten loads before each loading session. A total of ten loads always within .4 grs means each load within .04 grs.

One problem I had for quite a while was that sometimes the primer would not be pushed out all the way and it would stop the shell plate from turning with the ram halfway up, so you can't go forwards or backwards. This happened with certain headstamps more than others. Usually I could wiggle the case and the primer would drop. When it didn't, I had to force a thin metal rod through the primer hole to loosen it. Hornady told me to flatten the depriming pin. That didn't work, but grinding the tip thinner a bit did help. Apparently the primer gets pushed out, but then gets pulled back in I found a small rod with a depriming pin at the end. I can place this in the hole and then raise the ram until the other end hits the inside top of the press, forcing the primer out. I haven't had to do this in a while, thankfully.