W Turner
Member
I carry my 642 in an Azrael pocket holster. Forgot the model name, but I have been very pleased with it. Great quality and it breaks up the outline of my snubbie just fine.
W
W
Pocket Carry...ain't workin'...
- Thread starter Nightcrawler
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Probasco
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keltec 3at fis anywhere
I like low IWB carry.
Just low enough so the bottom inch of grip is tucked behind my belt. That keeps the gun butt flat against me. Totally concealed under just my polo shirt.
I do this with both my Firestorm .380 (Bersa) and my Ruger SP101. Nothing ever shows with either. Nothing sticks out. After my Firestorm (Bersa) failed at the range after only 400 rounds, I no longer want to carry it. I now carry only my SP101 low IWB.
The Firestorm is thin enough to do this with a low carry Galco holster, but is thinner without a holster and only a ClipDraw.
A ClipDraw carry device eliminates the holster and it's thickness and bulk. See http://www.clipdraw.com
Personally, I've found the Clipdraw thing to be fantastic for low IWB with stainless steel guns since they don't rust (well not much, not easily). The clipdraw for IWB may or may not be a good idea with a blued or painted steel gun (non stainless) because the gun might rust, as started happening with my Firestorm. This is why I now will only buy a stainless gun and use a ClipDraw.
When you carry IWB and get it low enough so that at least half an inch of gun butt is behind your belt, your gun will totally conceal with no butt sticking out at all. The gun is still fast enough to draw since only 1/2" or 1" is behind your belt. This is total concealment for small and medium frame revolvers with barrels up to 3", or single stackautos with barrel 3.5" or shorter.
I like 3" midsize revolvers and 3.5" small and midsize single stack autos IN STAINLESS STEEL because then I can use a Clipdraw for low IWB carry and have total concealment, easy access to gun, and no rust worries.
If your gun is not stainless, I'm told there are coating that can protect it to some extent. Also, the black painted guns are more rust resistant than the blued guns. If a gun is blued, then you for sure have to worry about rust because IWB carry, especially without a holster (ClipDraw) means your private's sweat is likely to rust the gun.
The ClipDraw is positioned on the gun by you when you install it. You can position for high, low, or medium IWB carry. Position it to give you the type of IWB carry that you want. Lower IWB hides much better and only slows your draw a little. I prefer low IWB.
The ClipDraw eliminates the holster, which makes the gun a very important 1/4" narrower. It's awesome!!!
Just low enough so the bottom inch of grip is tucked behind my belt. That keeps the gun butt flat against me. Totally concealed under just my polo shirt.
I do this with both my Firestorm .380 (Bersa) and my Ruger SP101. Nothing ever shows with either. Nothing sticks out. After my Firestorm (Bersa) failed at the range after only 400 rounds, I no longer want to carry it. I now carry only my SP101 low IWB.
The Firestorm is thin enough to do this with a low carry Galco holster, but is thinner without a holster and only a ClipDraw.
A ClipDraw carry device eliminates the holster and it's thickness and bulk. See http://www.clipdraw.com
Personally, I've found the Clipdraw thing to be fantastic for low IWB with stainless steel guns since they don't rust (well not much, not easily). The clipdraw for IWB may or may not be a good idea with a blued or painted steel gun (non stainless) because the gun might rust, as started happening with my Firestorm. This is why I now will only buy a stainless gun and use a ClipDraw.
When you carry IWB and get it low enough so that at least half an inch of gun butt is behind your belt, your gun will totally conceal with no butt sticking out at all. The gun is still fast enough to draw since only 1/2" or 1" is behind your belt. This is total concealment for small and medium frame revolvers with barrels up to 3", or single stackautos with barrel 3.5" or shorter.
I like 3" midsize revolvers and 3.5" small and midsize single stack autos IN STAINLESS STEEL because then I can use a Clipdraw for low IWB carry and have total concealment, easy access to gun, and no rust worries.
If your gun is not stainless, I'm told there are coating that can protect it to some extent. Also, the black painted guns are more rust resistant than the blued guns. If a gun is blued, then you for sure have to worry about rust because IWB carry, especially without a holster (ClipDraw) means your private's sweat is likely to rust the gun.
The ClipDraw is positioned on the gun by you when you install it. You can position for high, low, or medium IWB carry. Position it to give you the type of IWB carry that you want. Lower IWB hides much better and only slows your draw a little. I prefer low IWB.
The ClipDraw eliminates the holster, which makes the gun a very important 1/4" narrower. It's awesome!!!
Others have touched on it, but I will add my advice: the key to pocket carry is light weight, thin width, and a good pocket holster. If you are going to pocket carry, why not get a true pocket pistol? Seecamp, Rohrbaugh, Kel-Tec (P-3AT or P-32), or NAA (.32). The Kahr PM9 and (yet to be released) Kel-Tec PF-9 are on the large side for this category, but still a bit easier to conceal than your 642 IMO.
Pickpocket, I have a 642 and a PM-9. With some big pocketed pants - like Cabela's various hiking or cargo styles, I don't see that much difference between the two.
I've also noticed that I can get a better grip on the J grip than the PM-9 grip when I dig into my pants. Looks charming by the way.
So many guns, so much to decide. Can't there just be one answer to these questions?
I've also noticed that I can get a better grip on the J grip than the PM-9 grip when I dig into my pants. Looks charming by the way.
So many guns, so much to decide. Can't there just be one answer to these questions?
warmrain
Member
pocketgun, I would not change a word of your post if it were mine to make...!pocketgun said:
The revolver is longer and fatter (in the middle), but I too have both and find that they carry equally well in the stong side front pocket. I carry both in a Mitch Rosen Pocket Softy (PSF). Their weights are almost identical. I too find the revolver grip easier to obtain.pocketgun said:
The interesting difference is in the pocket holster construction differences from the pistol to the revolver. The pistol needs to be dragged a little across the pocket bottom or rear part to assure the holster catches and releases; while the revolver version should be drawn straight up the engage the portion of the holster into the pocket to retain it.
I have regularly carried the Kel-Tec P11 and Glock 26 in a Desantis Nemesis holster in cargo pants pocket: no printing. There is a possibility of the pocket gaping and making the weapon visible to someone standng behind you (grocery line). In this case, sew or glue a small strip of velcro onto the pocket: mark the point for attachment while standing with the gun in place. You want a small square of the hookey strip on the outside part of the pocket, and a larger strip of the loopy strip on the inside, so it closes reliably, and opens easily.
The Glock is on the heavy side for pocket carry, and I have had trouble with the pants material tearing where the pocket attaches at the right corner (right handed). I'm considering a fix for this: an iron on patch on the inside, plus stitching. Haven't tried it yet. Machine stitching would be un-noticeable.
IMHO,a CW should NEVER be carried without a holster that properly covers the trigger guard. Too easy to snag the trigger. I think clips on a Glock in particular are a very bad idea. Indeed rehlstering the Glock in the pocket must be done with great care, or the holster should be removed, the G26 placed in it, and the combo then pocketed. I don't worry about the Kel-Tec so much because of the heavy pull.
A comment on the Nemesis holster: if it is not a perfect fit for the gun, i.e. it is a little large and prevents acquiring a full firing grip, it is easy to fold over the excess material, pin it in position, trim it, and stitch it: the holster still functioned perfectly. I took mine to a leather repair shop (shoe shop would work) and got it stitched professionally for about $3.
An alternative might be to glue the fold, using wood strips and clamps.
C
The Glock is on the heavy side for pocket carry, and I have had trouble with the pants material tearing where the pocket attaches at the right corner (right handed). I'm considering a fix for this: an iron on patch on the inside, plus stitching. Haven't tried it yet. Machine stitching would be un-noticeable.
IMHO,a CW should NEVER be carried without a holster that properly covers the trigger guard. Too easy to snag the trigger. I think clips on a Glock in particular are a very bad idea. Indeed rehlstering the Glock in the pocket must be done with great care, or the holster should be removed, the G26 placed in it, and the combo then pocketed. I don't worry about the Kel-Tec so much because of the heavy pull.
A comment on the Nemesis holster: if it is not a perfect fit for the gun, i.e. it is a little large and prevents acquiring a full firing grip, it is easy to fold over the excess material, pin it in position, trim it, and stitch it: the holster still functioned perfectly. I took mine to a leather repair shop (shoe shop would work) and got it stitched professionally for about $3.
An alternative might be to glue the fold, using wood strips and clamps.
C
warmrain
Member
cgraham,
Agreed whole heartedly. The heavier pistols wear the pockets terribly. My biggest area is where the rear sight contacts the front of the pocket. I've been using iron one denim patches and it helps some. However jsut reducing the weight solves the problem (e.g. moving from a Kahr MK9 to a PM9).
Agreed that a pocket carry needs a holster. It protects the trigger (even though nothing else should be in your pocket) and it keeps the pistol oriented for the draw. It also breaks up the printed shape.
The only exception might be something like a vest pocket pistol in a vest pocket (or the watch pocket of a pair of jeans) as a BUG. I've talked to many that carry their bug this way, yet I am not convinced. I'm thinking the hedley hip pocket holster is a better idea.
I like the velcro idea. I try to plan my carry so the grip is below the lowest opening of the (dress slacks style - vertical slit) pocket so that it is not so much an issue. And, I like black grips and magazine end plates for this reason too.
Agreed whole heartedly. The heavier pistols wear the pockets terribly. My biggest area is where the rear sight contacts the front of the pocket. I've been using iron one denim patches and it helps some. However jsut reducing the weight solves the problem (e.g. moving from a Kahr MK9 to a PM9).
Agreed that a pocket carry needs a holster. It protects the trigger (even though nothing else should be in your pocket) and it keeps the pistol oriented for the draw. It also breaks up the printed shape.
The only exception might be something like a vest pocket pistol in a vest pocket (or the watch pocket of a pair of jeans) as a BUG. I've talked to many that carry their bug this way, yet I am not convinced. I'm thinking the hedley hip pocket holster is a better idea.
I like the velcro idea. I try to plan my carry so the grip is below the lowest opening of the (dress slacks style - vertical slit) pocket so that it is not so much an issue. And, I like black grips and magazine end plates for this reason too.
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