Receiver, barrel, gas system, op rod, trigger group, all are fine. These are the big, expensive parts (besides the bolt). The bolt is the one big ticket item that probably should be replaced (if you do decide to go the shoot-it-and-check-headspace-often route, you need to at least be aware that the expense of a USGI bolt may be in your future). The small parts can be used, or replaced at your leisure. Even the stock is fine, just ugly and easily dinged (soft wood).Unless you plan on rebuilding the poly from the receiver up I would buy the M1. The only parts I would consider from a poly would be the receiver and op-rod, the rest is metric and my parts box is standard.
I would not let Fulton Armory near any of my M14s
As far as headspacing is concerned, when you send it in to Fulton to have it tricked out, I'm sure they'll check that for you.
Also what percentage of Polytechs will have soft bolts (1 out of 3, 1 out of 10, and etc)?
As far as .308 or 7.62 NATO conversons be sure the rifle was converted by replacement of the barrel with one chambered in .308 or 7.62 NATO, and thats its not one that was converted with whats called a Navy Sleeve. The Navy Sleeve is a machined bushing that when placed into a standard M1 rifle barrel with an adhesive converts it to 7.62 NATO, the problem is sometimes when the casing is extracted so is the bushing. So if its a rifle you want to shoot make sure its a barrel conversion not a sleeve conversion.
Yep.Headspace gauge? something like this: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...m_campaign=649
AFAIK, this is NOT a do-it-yourself project. The bolt needs to be hand-fitted.On the scale of 1-10 how hard is it to change out the bolt by yourself?
No idea, but I agree that it was probably an early issue that was rectified. I don't know that for a fact, though, and while the odds may be small, the risk is enormous. I'm attached to my face. I opted for the USGI conversion simply for peace of mind.Also what percentage of Polytechs will have soft bolts (1 out of 3, 1 out of 10, and etc)?