Poor Boy Trigger Job Ruger New Vaquero

[doubletap213]

anyone hear of the Poor Boy Trigger Job on a Ruger New Vaquero? i read about it on Gunblast, you take off the grip panels and unhook one of the trigger return spring hooks. i did it and it NOTICABLY DID drop the weight of the trigger!! it says it wont effect the function of the revolver. i have dry fired it quite a few times since i did this and i havent noticed any function issues at all. has anyone else done this? im heading to the range tomorrow i cant wait!

 

[788Ham]

"Everything you ever wanted to know is on the internet" ! Good luck with the poor boy trigger job, if I trust my life with it, it'll go to a competent smithy !

 

[doubletap213]

nice answer...short and pointless

 

[Snag]

I don't care for those type of alterations. I'm a retired Ford mechanic and believe there's a reason why the engineers get paid the big bucks. If you want a lighter trigger get a lighter spring.

 

[ljnowell]

"Everything you ever wanted to know is on the internet" ! Good luck with the poor boy trigger job, if I trust my life with it, it'll go to a competent smithy !

Why even bother to reply? Really?

OP, I have done the Poor Boy trigger job on three different Rugers. It does work nicely. My 45 Colt Blackhawk actually pulls 2lb 15oz on my smiths guage. I know, thats really 3lbs, but still, its just under, and I will brag about that!

 

[Dudemeister]

anyone hear of the Poor Boy Trigger Job on a Ruger New Vaquero? i read about it on Gunblast, you take off the grip panels and unhook one of the trigger return spring hooks. i did it and it NOTICABLY DID drop the weight of the trigger!! it says it wont effect the function of the revolver. i have dry fired it quite a few times since i did this and i havent noticed any function issues at all. has anyone else done this? im heading to the range tomorrow i cant wait!

Yes, I've done this myself. Not to a New Model, but to one of the original Vaqueros. The trigger is really smooth, and haven't had any problems with it. I've shot probably 1500+ rounds through it since the modification without a single failure.

This is probably the single most useful modification one can make to their Ruger.

 

[CraigC]

I don't particularly care for it, as you can usually feel the loose leg rubbing on the mainspring. Springs are cheap and all my Rugers get a 17lb hammer spring and reduced power trigger return spring, all from Wolff.

Not to a New Model, but to one of the original Vaqueros.

All Vaqueros are "New Models".

 

[Drail]

Taking a spring off halfway is not a "trigger job". Changing out springs is not a "trigger job." If you want a trigger job you can either learn how to do it and buy the tools or pay a real smith.

 

[One_Jackal]

"Everything you ever wanted to know is on the internet" ! Good luck with the poor boy trigger job, if I trust my life with it, it'll go to a competent smithy !

I have to agree with 788Ham. Let me pose a question to you. How much is your life worth? If it's not worth $60 to $100 for a basic fluff and buff you have little need for a gun.

 

[Dudemeister]

"I don't particularly care for it, as you can usually feel the loose leg rubbing on the mainspring."
First of all, I don't feel any rub from the main spring, secondly, while I don't doubt that a new set of springs would make a big difference, this particular mod is simple enough to do for even the most novice of shooter, and does not require any kind of disassembly (other than to remove the grips), and it's reversible should the shooter not like it.

And the there are the results. I just did a trigger pull test with the spring on, and off, the the difference was dramatic. With the spring on, the trigger pull was 3lb, 2 oz. With the spring off, 1lb, 12oz. I'll take a sub 2lb trigger pull any day.

"All Vaqueros are "New Models"
Yes, I know that technically, all Vaqueros are "New Model Blackhawks", but you know exactly what I meant, the distinction between the original models made between '93 and '05, and the new smaller XR3 frame models made since then with "Ruger New Vaquero" roll stamped on the left side of the frame.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

All Vaqueros are "New Models".

Really? I know you have a reason for saying that but it's lost on me.

I have a pre 2005 Vaquero that does not say "New Vaquero" on the side and 2 post 2005 that do say "New Vaquero".
Now please tell me where I went wrong!

 

[1911Tuner]

I've used the "Poor Boy's Trigger Job" on my Blackhawks and New Vaqueros, and it does take a little less effort to pull the trigger, but understand that it's not a trigger job in any sense of the term. While I haven't had a mechanical problem resulting from it...Murphy is alive and well, and currently residing in my hip pocket. If the loose leg hangs up, it's possible for it to cause the trigger to fail to reset, which means that the hammer won't hold full cock. Bad JuJu if you find yourself facing a territorial bear out on the formerly happy trail.

It's fine for a quick trip to the range to bust some plates or punch holes in paper...but if the gun is to be pressed into any sort of defensive role, I strongly advise placing the spring leg back where it belongs before venturing forth.

My 2% of a buck. The final choice is up to you.

 

[BullRunBear]

I've done this on several Ruger single actions and it does make a difference. Many years and thousands of rounds later and never had a problem because of it. If for any reason you need the original, heavier trigger pull, the 'poor boy' procedure can be reversed in a minute or two. Never noticed any rubbing on the mainspring.

The OP never said this was for a defense gun. But for targets or even hunting non-lethal game, where's the harm?

Jeff

 

[Lawdawg45]

With a custom spring kit being so inexpensive, why alter the engineering and leave loose parts in the gun? Plus, if you're one of the outdated, old fashioned, silly, foolish, stupid people like me who carry a SA for concealed carry , why trust your life to that type of "modification"?

LD

 

[Salmoneye]

I drop one leg of the spring on my Blackhawks/SBH...

What I have found is that each gun wants one leg or the other, and if you unhook the 'wrong' side, you can get binding of the leg on the mainspring...

Only way to find out is try one, replace the grips, and if you get tension, rehook that leg, and try the other...

Works for me, and I do not recommend anyone do as I do...

 

[Hammerdown77]

Really? I know you have a reason for saying that but it's lost on me.

I have a pre 2005 Vaquero that does not say "New Vaquero" on the side and 2 post 2005 that do say "New Vaquero".
Now please tell me where I went wrong!

New "Model" is different than New "Vaquero". New Model denotes guns made with the transfer bar system, no half-cock loading, and two pins in the frame as opposed to three screws. The "Old Model" is the three screw guns with no transfer bar and lockwork like Colt SAAs and clones.

Then, to confuse things even more, there's "Vaquero" and "New Vaquero". And now there are some mid-frame Vaqueros that they are just calling "Vaquero" again.

 

[doubletap213]

I have to agree with 788Ham. Let me pose a question to you. How much is your life worth? If it's not worth $60 to $100 for a basic fluff and buff you have little need for a gun.

i know full well my needs for a gun pal, anything i trust my life to will be made by Sig as i carry the p226 on duty every day so i dont need an Assumption Lecture on my needs for a gun.

 

[doubletap213]

thanks for all the good feedback to those of you whom answered my question. i appreciate it!

 

[DickM]

I have three Vaqueros (if I've followed the tit for tat correctly, they would be "New Model" but Old, er . . . make that Original, er . . . make that just Vaquero) that I use for CAS that I've unhooked one leg of the trigger return spring on. The improvement was huge, and I've had no troubles whatsoever with them for years. Just about (and I say "just about" because someone will be along shortly to say they don't) everyone I know shooting CAS with Vaqueros does the same thing.

No, I wouldn't do it if I were using the guns for SD, but then again I don't think a Vaquero in .45 Colt would be my first choice for that anyway.

FWIW, I'd heard the "poor man's trigger job" on a single-action Ruger described as dry-firing the gun a number of times while putting additional forward pressure on the hammer. I haven't done that, and I don't necessarily recommend it, but that's my understanding.

 

[Hammerdown77]

The best way to "tune" the trigger return weight is to either bend each leg down slightly in the middle until the pull weight you desire is achieved (leaving both legs hooked on the frame), or order a Wolff 30 oz. or 40 oz. replacement spring.

I like bending the factory spring legs because it allows me to get the pull right where I want it, instead of "a little too light" or "a little too heavy".

Problem with this return spring tinkerin' stuff is that it does nothing for the "feel" of the trigger. Just the pull poundage. On most Rugers, reducing the pull weight below 3 lbs. really uncovers the mile of creep present in the trigger from the factory. The heavier pulls mask this. If'n you REALLY want a nice trigger, you need to reduce the pull weight AND adjust the sear engagement area. As well as stone and smooth every rough spot in the lockwork and the frame. A professionally done ACTION job is a beautiful thing on a nice single action, and $100 or so is WELL worth it, IMHO.

 

[chicharrones]

The best way to "tune" the trigger return weight is to either bend each leg down slightly in the middle until the pull weight you desire is achieved (leaving both legs hooked on the frame), or order a Wolff 30 oz. or 40 oz. replacement spring.

I like bending the factory spring legs because it allows me to get the pull right where I want it, instead of "a little too light" or "a little too heavy".

Problem with this return spring tinkerin' stuff is that it does nothing for the "feel" of the trigger. Just the pull poundage. On most Rugers, reducing the pull weight below 3 lbs. really uncovers the mile of creep present in the trigger from the factory. The heavier pulls mask this. If'n you REALLY want a nice trigger, you need to reduce the pull weight AND adjust the sear engagement area. As well as stone and smooth every rough spot in the lockwork and the frame. A professionally done ACTION job is a beautiful thing on a nice single action, and $100 or so is WELL worth it, IMHO.

Totally agree. I tried the PBTJ and while it does indeed work, I prefer bending the return spring's legs like you mention. You can tweak it to where you want it and it doesn't leave one spring leg dangling.

Also, you are correct that the heavy trigger spring masks creep. I found I had to tune my trigger more to my liking by actually polishing things and decreasing the sear engagement notch a tad.

This article helped me figure out the details. http://www.realguns.com/archives/010.htm

 

[CraigC]

Taking a spring off halfway is not a "trigger job". Changing out springs is not a "trigger job." If you want a trigger job you can either learn how to do it and buy the tools or pay a real smith.

I don't think anybody is under the illusion that a spring modification takes the place of a real action job. However, installing new springs does make a measurable difference in the trigger pull. Period. No, it does not reduce the creep but it does help and it's cheap. Most of us do not have a local gunsmith who is familiar enough with New Models to be able to reduce the creep to a minimum and maintain proper function. So that means shipping to a reputable gunsmith. So factoring in shipping along with the cost of an action job, you might be able to understand why a spring mod is so attractive. Sometimes it's worth the expense, sometimes it isn't. For me, I never shipped a handgun to a gunsmith that didn't also receive a lot of other custom work, in addition to an action job. For those four custom guns, a slick action and 2lb trigger were critical. For most the rest of my New Models, they'll have to make do with springs.

First of all, I don't feel any rub from the main spring, secondly, while I don't doubt that a new set of springs would make a big difference, this particular mod is simple enough to do for even the most novice of shooter, and does not require any kind of disassembly (other than to remove the grips), and it's reversible should the shooter not like it.

First of all, I didn't post theories. I've got a dozen Ruger single actions and I've tried the poorboy's several times. I always felt the spring leg dragging. I've also installed new springs in all those guns.

...but you know exactly what I meant...

Yes, I knew what you meant. The problem is not whether or not I knew what you meant but everybody else who does not live and breathe this stuff.

I know you have a reason for saying that but it's lost on me.

Hammerdown has it. "Old Model" is Ruger's official term for 1953-1973 single actions with the traditional half cock action and three action screws. Just as "New Model" (note capitalization and in quoted post) is Ruger's official designation for all single actions made thereafter with the transfer bar ignition and two action pins. So all Vaqueros (1992-2005) and New Vaqueros (2005-present) are "New Model" single action revolvers utilizing the "New Model" action. For whatever reason, people have this irresistible need to add their own extraneous descriptors. Do you think folks in England call it Old York or Old Model York just because we have a new one in the northeastern United States???

It is simply Vaquero and New Vaquero. No other nonsense is necessary.

 

[BCCL]

Never been a fan of the "poor boy trigger job" on a Ruger. I've shot them with and without it, and never found it to really help. Occasionally I buy a used Ruger and find it's had it done to it and I put it back.

 

[skeeziks]

There is a reason it's called the "Poor Man's" trigger job....
If you have the means, then get a real TJ. But if it's either the "Poor Man's" or nothing, than the PM's is better than nothing.

> I read Jeff's article about the PMTJ last year and tried it on an old Uberti SAA Clone I had lying around. I didn't do anything with the return spring, I only did the "Thumb Pressure" dry-firing part (dry-fire over & over while applying heavy pressure to the back of hammer with thumb.)
It definitely smoothed things up some, but it could still use a couple of strokes on a stone to make it better.
But like I already said...it's better than nothing.

 

[Snag]

This article helped me figure out the details. http://www.realguns.com/archives/010.htm

Nice article to learn about what needs to be done to smooth things up. The comments at the end however, especially the bits about quality of fixtures, scare me too much to ever attempt anything myself.