Powder Comparison

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rodwha

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I've seen a few threads on various forums where this new Olde Eynsford powder has been compared with Swiss through rifles.

It seems everyone has been impressed, though I've seen the velocity is slightly less, which isn't a big deal. But it's been head and shoulders above other BP's.

I've yet to see any comparisons done through handguns. Has anyone seen results or done some testing of their own?

Has anyone tested against Triple 7? Or tested T7 against Swiss?

I want an energetic 3F powder to run through my Old Army, and want to stock/carry just one powder for all of my arms (so far just a .50 cal percussion Deerstalker). I've been using T7 so far and like it.

I've yet to fire anything but Pyrodex through my rifle as I don't like it, and I'm still breaking it in. But I've read of the "crud" ring it typically leaves, though I've heard this isn't always the case.

I recently received a bottle of 3F Olde Eynsford to try out, but without a chronograph I don't have a good way to compare against T7 other than maybe clean up and recoil of 35 grns behind a 240 grn conical.
 
From what people have said before 777 powder and Swiss are similar in terms of power-for-volume.

If you only want to stock one powder the real question is - are you ever planning on buying a flintlock? If so you'll need real black powder. I run some flintlocks with Swiss 3F as both the main and pan charges and it works great.
 
I have been drawn to a flintlock. For that I'd make an exception though if needed.

I've become more concerned with the time frame of muzzleloaders, which is a part of my curiosity of flintlocks. I wanted one just for the historical value, but maybe getting a smaller caliber rifle for small game hunting would be good. I'm not sure I'd want to use a flintlock for larger game hunting as I'm not sure how you can keep the powder in the pan, along with the slower ignition with the noises that accompany trying to ignite what's in the pan.

Wish I knew people who were into this stuff that were right here!
 
keeping powder in the pan is not much of a problem, keeping it dry can be problem.
Mastering the flinch is even a bigger problem.
All that being said the flintlock fed alot of people for a very long time.
Eating a deer that you've taken with a flintlock tastes extra fine.
 
re: slower ignition and noises I believe if the lock is working well it's something like a few hundredths of a second. Perhaps somebody can verify that. I know when mine are working well it's imperceptible. When they're not... they're all still reliable as caps, it's more a question of losing a bit of accuracy. It's been good for my followthrough though.
 
How does the powder stay in the pan if it's not always held horizontal?

Why are they called flinch locks?
 
rodwha

How does the powder stay in the pan if it's not always held horizontal?
rodwha...If you look at the capital "L" the upright leg is the frizzen,the short leg is the cover of the pan,which holds the powder in place,the entire piece is held either open or closed by its own spring.
Why are they called flinch locks? Well once your loaded up and ready to shoot (look at the above rocklock being fired)you've got a lot of mechanical movement accompanied by 3-5 grains of powder flashing just inches from your eye.Just a natural reaction of 'not in my eye you don't'.:what:
Never fear, a well made flinter has as part of the pan what's called a fence,which directs the flash smoke miasma and burning powder grains up and away from your face, hopefully.
Once though you do get The Hang of it,flinching will be in your past.
robert
 
Howdy

You need to examine a flintlock to understand how it works. Until you do, go to this page and watch the animation.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flintlock

The frizzen is held down over the pan by a spring. It is called a 'pan' because there is a depression where the 4F powder of the lock is placed. After loading the main charge down the barrel, you flip the frizzen out of the way to prime the pan. Then you flip the frizzen down to cover the powder. It ain't going to go anywhere because it is captured by the frizzen. These things were developed over the centuries and a lot of thought went into making them work right.

When you pull the trigger, the cock rotates clockwise. The flint strikes the frizzen and begins throwing sparks. At the same time, the flint shoves the pan open, exposing the 4F powder to the sparks. The flint drags along the frizzen the whole time, throwing a shower of sparks as the frizzen is opening. With a well made lock, the powder in the pan actually ignites and sends a flame through the touch hole before the flint reaches the bottom of the pan. The ball should be on its way down the barrel long before any target is aware of all the commotion happening at the lock.
 
"At the same time, the flint shoves the pan open, exposing the 4F powder to the sparks."

Ahhh...this part I was not aware of. My knowledge on flintlocks is quite vague. I had a general understanding, but certainly didn't realize that the frizzen covered the pan until the flint pushed it out of the way.

I always marveled at how they could run around with a loaded flintlock and fire it after a mad dash or some such, which is the main reason I wasn't interested in hunting with one. I thought you had to hold your rifle fairly level the whole time!

I must say it's been a cool journey so far finding interest in muzzleloaders as it began with a great disregard for more traditional projectiles and older designs, but the more I looked around and asked questions the more interesting this outdated stuff, and it's history, has become.

I've become interested in a Revolutionary War era long arm, as well as something smaller caliber for small game hunting that is flintlock.

I also like the musketoon!
 
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