I use CVA Grease Patch on all moving parts in my Remigntons and Colts. Seems to work well.
Alas, it's apparently not being manufactured so you may have to use Bore Butter.
I started shooting cap and ball revolvers about 1970, using Crisco. Gave that up years ago for the CVA stuff.
Part of your difficulty with cocking may not entirely be fouling around the cylinder pin. That's part of it, to be sure, but the sides of the hammer and the hammer channel in the frame can get fouled and cause drag as well.
To alleviate this, use a Q-tip to coat the interior of the hammer channel and sides of the hammer. Also, ensure you use a good grease at the back of the cylinder, where the ratchet pushes against it.
The inner, moving parts inside the frame should also have a coating of good grease. This will shrug off fouling better.
The problem with black powder fouling is that it will soak up oil like a sponge, adversely affecting oil's lubricating qualities. You need grease, not oil, on moving parts.
Grease will last longer on the moving parts than oil, becoming a gray sludge but a lubricating sludge nonetheless. Oil will be quickly burned off, leaving bare metal on bare metal.
Greased felt wads also seem to prolong operation. I started with Crisco over the ball years ago but changed to greased felt wad between ball and powder when the difference in bore fouling and general operation became apparent.
Whatever grease you use, it must be natural. I've learned over the years, as have others, that petroleum-based greases tend to create a hard, tarry fouling when mixed with black powder. Natural greases don't do this, and keep the fouling softer.
Natural greases include: lard, Crisco, Bore Butter, SPG bullet lubricant, Lyman Black Powder Gold, tallow and even bacon drippings.
For moving parts, you need a fairly soft grease such as Bore Butter. For the felt wads, a harder grease is needed.
The best lubricant I've found for felt wads is named after me, though it's a modern version of an old recipe I found years ago:
Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant
1 part canning paraffin
1 part mutton tallow
1/2 part beeswax
All parts are by weight, not volume. Substitution of any ingredients results in an inferior product.
Use only real beeswax; toilet seals are no longer a reliable source, they've been petroleum-based for 10 years or more.
Undoubtedly, some will disagree, point and laugh at the old geezer, or say it's too much trouble to do all of the above. They're entitled, but the above works for me.
